North Carolina's New-School BBQ Revolution
While North Carolina is full of BBQ traditions, some pitmasters are embracing change with tremendously delicious results.
Last week, Ryan wrote about our recent visit to North Carolina, focusing on historic old-school NC BBQ joints that continue to impress despite being around for decades. North Carolina is well known for these types of joints that have preserved tradition, with younger generations keeping the pits going and customers enthusiastically showing up every day.
While older joints are more prominent in the minds of many North Carolinians, something exciting is happening — new barbecue joints with decidedly modern attitudes are thriving. Enterprising pitmasters have begun offering proteins and sides you’d never find at a classic NC BBQ restaurant, including Texas-style brisket, beef ribs, and creative sausages.
Ryan and I were thrilled to find time during our visit to stop in at two such new-school NC BBQ joints. The first of these was Jon G’s Barbecue in Peachland, a joint we’ve been wanting to visit for years. We were joined by friends of The Smoke Sheet, including Monk from Barbecue Bros, Ronald Simmons from Master Blend Family Farms, Michael "Chigger" Willard from the Low & Slow Barbecue Show; and Paige Hogan, designer of The Smoke Sheet and a brilliant social media creator.
Jon G’s shares many traits with the famed Snow’s BBQ in Texas. It’s a Saturday-only operation where people are so passionate about the food that they are willing to wait hours in line to get a taste of barbecue heaven. Free beer is available for those “tailgating” for barbecue. During our visit, the first person in line arrived before 6 a.m., and he didn’t get to eat until 11 a.m.
The line at Jon G’s is well worth it. Owners Garren “Jon G” Kirkman and his wife Kelly have created a special place here since opening in June 2020 with mouth-watering bites and a community feel.
Every protein we tried, from the brisket to beef ribs to pork ribs to bacon burnt ends to the “queso Texicano” sausage, was perfectly smoked and full of flavor. The side dishes, including brisket fried rice, jalapeno cheese grits, and tater tot casserole, were all delicious as well. Dessert options (which you are so full you almost can’t partake) include tasty Oreo and banana puddings.
We strongly encourage locals and visitors to the Charlotte area to join in the fun at Jon G’s and experience it for themselves. For more, watch this video from Master Blend Family Farms that showcases our visit.
The second North Carolina new school stop on our visit was Sweet Lew’s BBQ in the Belmont neighborhood of Charlotte. The joint, which proudly only cooks with wood, opened in December 2018 and embraces many styles of barbecue. The menu incorporates many of the best ideas of Texas and North Carolina barbecue.
On the Sunday when we visited, owner/pitmaster Lewis Donald was hosting a brunch party to get local influencers talking about the upcoming Carolina BBQ Festival. (Y’all should definitely get tickets!) While we ate a few brunch snacks and talked to some of the locals, we were most excited about getting our hands on Sweet Lew’s barbecue bites.
I’m happy to report that Sweet Lew’s is serving some of the best barbecue in Charlotte, with tender brisket, smoky wings, delicious pork, and a special “Philly cheese” sausage. For the sides, you must try the hushpuppies, mac and cheese, beans, both kinds of slaw, and the hash and rice.
Not only is the food great, but Sweet Lew’s itself is inviting, with a great patio and friendly staff. The joint has also helped bring new economic activity and opportunities to its surrounding neighborhood over the past few years. All Charlotte-area barbecue fans should be sure to see this restaurant that embraces past and present.
Sean Ludwig
Co-Founder, The Smoke Sheet
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