Farm BBQ: Bringing Carolina BBQ to Maryland Farms

This unique barbecue operation embraces Carolina traditions while also promoting regenerative farming.

This week’s guest article is written by Michael “Chigger” Willard, host of The Low & Slow Barbecue Show podcast and blog, which spotlights stories and recipes from pitmasters in the Carolinas.

A Maryland barbecue venture is redefining what it means to combine tradition, community, and sustainability. Farm BBQ not only produces great food but also fuels agri-tourism opportunities in the semi-rural community of Fallston, MD.

“We started this as a way to support local agriculture and connect [the] community,” Farm BBQ co-founder Will said during a conversation with The Low & Slow Barbecue Show. “We know what barbecue does. It brings people together.”

And when those people are together, Farm BBQ can highlight its partners.

“One of the things we’re able to do with our ‘superpower’ is shine a light on local farmers and the importance of local agriculture,” Will said.

(Photo via Farm BBQ)

BBQ Speakeasy Beginnings

The idea for the business ignited during outdoor BBQ get-togethers in the uncertain times of 2020.

“The ‘speakeasies,’ as they started, they may have never come to fruition had the pandemic not existed, because everybody was home and looking for something to do outdoors,” Will said. “It was the perfect opportunity.”

Initially, a shared passion between Farm BBQ co-founders Will and Mark led to experiments with smokey meat samples for their families.

“Then our families had some friends over,” Will said, “and then their friends had some friends over and their friends …”

(Photo via Farm BBQ)

The popularity sparked “you guys need to be doing this” suggestions. Will brought in another friend, Tommie, who possesses deep restaurant expertise, including cooking pork.

“We were doing whole hogs in a Hawaiian barbecue sense,” Tommie said. “I got to know Will, and Will started bestowing the wisdom of Carolina barbecue onto me …”

“In hindsight, I think we both started off our barbecue journey barbecuing whole hogs,” he continues. “Which is not really the usual place to start, but that’s where we began. It’s a very unique hobby.”

Friendship and a common bond around whole hog barbecue expanded to business. Together, Mark, Will, and Tommie are passionate about supporting local Maryland culture and entities that encourage farmers.

“Maybe even help some of those farmers share their knowledge,” Will said.

(Photo via Farm BBQ)

Farm BBQ Regenerative Farm Partners

Farm BBQ’s success is rooted in its collaboration with regenerative farms. These farms prioritize sustainability, nutrient-rich produce, and ethical treatment of animals.

“Regenerative farming is as old as farming itself, but it’s been largely forgotten,” shared Will, whose grandfather was a Maine dairy farmer. “These farmers are doing things the right way. This is the very best protein and produce that you could possibly give your children.

Three farms are primary Farm BBQ partners, and they all “share a philosophy about the earth and about how animals and vegetables should be raised and treated.” Other farms fill additional needs.

Farm BBQ supports partners in different ways:

• Buy as much product as possible – from whole hog to other cuts of meat and vegetables.

• Promote farm partners’ direct-to-home markets and cooperatives.

“A lot of these farms we work with have markets. That’s an easy way for people to connect with the local farmers and support them,” Will said.

Those resources add additional variety to the Farm BBQ offering, too.

“We’re happy to get creative, and in Maryland at least, you’ve got about one month of peak season for almost every vegetable,” Tommie said. “So we’ll lean into that for a month, and then we’ll move on to the next vegetable next month.”

(Photo via Farm BBQ)

Why Carolina BBQ in Maryland?

Maryland and New England aren’t often known for barbecue. But when you marry a woman from the South, barbecue inspiration is within closer grasp.

“The first time I had real barbecue was on my honeymoon, and we were passing through North Carolina,” Will explained. “We stopped, and it was an absolute revelation. Who would have thought you could put apple cider vinegar in barbecue sauce? I’d thought barbecue sauce was just sugar.”

Later, Will found more guidance during a visit with N.C. Barbecue Hall of Fame Member Sam Jones. Seeing how “the real masters” behind quintessential Eastern N.C. barbecue restaurants Skylight Inn and Sam Jones BBQ carry on the same smoking traditions for generations had a “massive impact” on the way Farm BBQ cooks.

“There’s one way to do it right, and that’s low and slow, and it’s with hardwood,” Will said. “As much as all you Carolina people like to fight about what the best sauce is, it’s really the method.”