Why Blake’s At Southern Milling Should Be On Your BBQ Bucket List
Hundreds of miles from the Lone Star State, in the small town of Martin, Tennessee, stands one of the best Texas-style barbecue restaurants I have ever experienced. Blake’s at Southern Milling offers a varied menu with an extensive selection of smoked meats and Southern dishes as well as a full bar in a gorgeous 104-year-old, fully-renovated historic mill. The restaurant, the brainchild of 27-year-old pitmaster Blake Stoker, should be included on every Texas BBQ fanatic’s bucket list.
Pitmaster Blake Stoker opened his restaurant in a historic mill in Martin, Tennessee earlier this year. (Photo by Amanda Rummel)
I have followed Blake’s career through social media from nearly the beginning, when he was a recent college graduate operating out of a small BBQ trailer, first in his hometown of Dresden and then in nearby Martin. We’ve met up over the years to break bread and talk barbecue at some of the best spots in Tennessee, Texas, and Kansas City. Even in the BBQ community, which is known for friendly and hard-working people, Blake stands out as one of the truly good guys in the industry.
Three years ago, while I was on my way to The Jack, I stopped in Tennessee to try Blake’s amazing food and was quite impressed. He was able to serve delicious food from his trailer to a constant stream of customers, with a small staff that included his mother and sister and one other employee. After he sold out of fresh food for the day, we drove down the street to an old historic building that had once been a mill in Martin, which he was renovating. Blake shared his vision for a brick-and-mortar barbecue restaurant that would be unlike anything the area had ever seen.
Blake trained pitmaster Libby Meadows, who he gives an enormous amount of credit for producing great barbecue at Blake’s at Southern Milling. (Photo by Ryan Cooper)
Shortly after my visit, the pandemic slowed progress on the preservation and renovation at the mill, but Blake used the time to build his team and prepare for the opening of the restaurant. He hired Libby Meadows and trained her to become an accomplished pitmaster, calling her “a future Miss Tootsie” (referring to Snow’s BBQ Pitmaster Tootsie Tomanetz), saying she is even better than he is at many tasks.
Earlier this year, the BBQ community waited in anticipation as Blake put the finishing touches on refurbishing the building and had the heavy offset smokers moved into place in the adjoining pit room. The grand opening of Blake’s at Southern Milling took place this past May, with Kerry Bexley from Snow’s BBQ and John Brotherton from Brotherton’s Black Iron BBQ making the journey from Texas to help out on the first day.
Blake’s restaurant is housed in a 104-year-old historic mill that has been beautifully preserved and renovated. (Photo courtesy of Blake Stoker via Facebook)
When I was finally able to visit the restaurant this month, I was blown away. It was remarkable to be able to witness the vision that Blake had described and worked so hard to realize for so many years. I can honestly say that it exceeds my wildest expectations in every way.
The historic mill has been beautifully preserved, with as much of the integrity of the original building being maintained as possible. The interior of the building has a gorgeous aesthetic with the old lettering on the exposed brick walls being left intact. A large and extremely stylish dining room has been thoughtfully incorporated into the original structure, as has the pit room where the meat is smoked on several 500- and 1,000-gallon offset smokers.
The Bubba Cole sandwich consists of smoked brisket and turkey topped with pimento cheese on a toasted bun. (Photo by Amanda Rummel)
My friends and I were allowed in to look around before the Friday lunch crowd began arriving. We admired the front wall of the dining room at the building’s entrance that is filled with framed photos of many of the pitmasters who have served as inspiration for Blake over the years, including Wayne Mueller of Louie Mueller Barbecue, Russell Roegels of Roegels Barbecue, and Zach Parker of B.E. Scott’s BBQ. We also had the opportunity to visit with Libby and her staff of pit hands, who were getting everything ready before service.
I wrongly assumed that Blake would be sitting comfortably in his office, seated at the bar, or greeting customers up front. Instead, he was on his feet slicing brisket, ribs, and sausage and helping his team assemble Instagram-worthy trays of barbecue, just as he always did in his trailer. “This is one thing I still really enjoy doing,” he says about his role at the cutting block.
The ribs, turkey, and sliced brisket served at Blake’s at Southern Milling are all incredible. (Photo by Ryan Cooper)
The food served at Blake’s was every bit as picture-perfect as the building. We started with crackers served with sweet and spicy smoked cream cheese as well as chicken wings. Next, everyone enjoyed the smoked turkey and baby back ribs, though the moist brisket was the highlight of the tray. The side dishes were also delicious, particularly the vinegary coleslaw, which was light and refreshing.
A huge line of customers can often be found in front of the building before lunch each day. (Photo by Blake Stoker)
The items that disappeared the quickest were the now world-famous Bubba Cole sandwich, which consists of smoked brisket and turkey topped with pimento cheese on a toasted bun, and the smash burger. Everything we tried was incredible. Just like some of Blake’s favorite spots in Texas, such as Miller’s Smokehouse and Truth Barbeque, homemade desserts were an essential part of the dining experience.
Pit hand Lacey Hensley takes the sausage off the smoker to prepare for service. (Photo by Ryan Cooper)
Having a staff willing to show up each day to work hard is increasingly difficult to maintain in the post-pandemic world. Unlike the days in the trailer, Blake now has a large staff to serve the hungry customers who line up each morning. Each person we talked to on the team was friendly, helpful, and truly seemed to enjoy working there.
In the short time that it has been open, Blake’s at Southern Milling has already become a special destination, drawing not only crowds of local diners but also an endless number of barbecue enthusiasts from around the country. It will doubtless become a must-visit barbecue destination where lovers of craft barbecue make pilgrimages for years to come. I already anxiously await my next visit.
Ryan Cooper (BBQ Tourist)
Co-Founder, The Smoke Sheet
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—Axiom Kitchen in Long Beach is creating a lot of buzz in the California BBQ scene. (Photo by Brian Addison)—
HOT OFF THE PRESS
Brisket, beef ribs, tri-tip, and more are turning heads at the Axiom Kitchen pop-up in Long Beach, California, Brian Addison of Eater Los Angeles reports. The operation is helmed by Qiana and Ian Mafnas, a wife-and-husband team that has also enlisted several of their kids. The pop-up has seen a quick rise, as Ian became first fascinated with Texas-style BBQ in 2020 and only just opened it with his family in April 2022. “That combination of smoke, meat, and dry rub, man, it opened a beast in my belly,” Ian told Eater. “There’s a discipline and learning process that comes with the pit. The constant adjusting of everything … That structure is precisely what I needed.” READ MORE.
Ray Sheehan, pitmaster, chef, and friend of The Smoke Sheet, has announced that he has retired his BBQ Buddha brand and sold it to author Chris Sussman, aka The BBQ Buddha. “Recently, I had the opportunity to open a restaurant, Ray’s Roadside Kitchen in Cream Ridge, NJ,” Sheehan wrote on Facebook. “I knew going into this venture that I would have to prioritize my time, and some things would change, namely how I operate BBQ Buddha. That change came on October 24th when I sold the trademark and domains associated with BBQ Buddha to Chris Sussman, aka The BBQ Buddha. As many of you may be aware, Chris is a well-known figure in the BBQ world, a cookbook author himself, and a representative for Big Green Egg and Snake River Farms. I did not sell my company, only the name and domain. I will be rebranding the same recipes with new labels in the near future.” READ MORE.
After 76 years in business, historic Pecos Bill’s BBQ has closed for good, Eater Los Angeles reports. “The tiny walk-up restaurant specialized in Oklahoma-style barbecue, including a prolific pulled pork sandwich that landed in nearly every takeout bag,” Eater notes. “Owner Jerry Redman died suddenly of a heart attack earlier in November, with little more than a ‘closed permanently’ sign taped to the front window to acknowledge the passing.” READ MORE.
ADDITIONAL READS
Soccer star Leo Messi and the Argentinian team brought 6,000 pounds of beef for cooking to the World Cup in Qatar.
If you’re looking for new rubs, sauces, and seasonings to amp up your barbecue, here at 10 highlights picked out by Texas Monthly BBQ Editor Daniel Vaughn.
Pitmaster Erica Blaire Roby shows off how to make BBQ pulled turkey sandwiches with Thanksgiving leftovers.
Here’s how to apply for the 2023 Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest.
If you’re looking for good barbecue in the Denver area, Kansas City native Lily O’Neill has compiled a list of 7 great joints to visit for The Denver Post.
The owner of John Brown BBQ in Queens, NY, credits the success of Patrick Mahomes and the Chiefs with saving his KC BBQ restaurant in NYC.
A new location of LA’s Holy Cow has opened in Redondo Beach to rave reviews.
—Joe Martinez of Smokin’ Joe’s Pit BBQ talks about opening a food truck in El Paso.—
WATCH
A Day In The Life At My Food Truck — Smokin’ Joe’s Pit BBQ
After years of cooking barbecue in the backyard, Joe Martinez of Smokin’ Joe’s Pit BBQ recently opened a food truck in his hometown of El Paso, Texas. In this video, he shares what the experience has been like for the first few weeks he has been open for business. Martinez also discusses a few products he uses in his food truck that make life a lot easier for him. WATCH HERE.
LISTEN
Interviews with Tim Scheer and Brian Peyton — Tailgate Guys BBQ Podcast
On Episode 190 of the Tailgate Guys BBQ Podcast, co-hosts Lyndal and Steve talk to two big names in the barbecue world. First, they catch up with Tim Scheer of Blues Hog, Gateway Drum Smokers, and Marble Ridge Farms. Then they speak with Brian Peyton of the Meat Me in St. Louis team, fresh off his first KCBS Grand Championship win at the Atlanta BBQ Store Classic. LISTEN HERE.
READ
Best of American Barbecue Smoker Cookbook — Will Budiaman
Heat. Moisture. Smoke. These are the foundations of good BBQ. And with the Best of American Barbecue Smoker Cookbook, you’ll discover how to control those elements and make barbecue magic in your own backyard. Along the way, you’ll also read about the history of BBQ, get expert advice, examine different heat sources, and so much more. Most importantly, you’ll learn how to prepare favorite recipes and BBQ staples from around the country. ORDER HERE.
—This simple recipe for Cowboy Ketchup is great for grilled burgers, hot dogs, and brats. (Photo by Wai Chan)—
Cowboy Ketchup
By Raikes Beef Co.
Perhaps nothing is more American than spending time in the backyard and grilling burgers. Now and again, you might want to kick things up a notch to impress your family and friends. Raikes Beef Co. has you covered with this recipe for Cowboy Ketchup, a great condiment you can use to take your burgers, brats, or hot dogs to the next level!
—Be sure to hit up a great BBQ event this winter and start mapping out your spring.—
December 11, 2022: Slap Yo Daddy Sausage Making Class — Diamond Bar, California
In response to numerous requests for more Sausage Making classes, Harry has teamed up with award winning Sausage Sensei Bill Dumas who is his BBQ brother from a different Mother. Bill is one of the most well-known sausage master craftsmen in Texas and who will take your sausage making skills to new lengths. The bonus is Harry will be providing a championship-level BBQ lunch (brisket, ribs, sides) and other muse bouche goodies (brisket sushi, pig candy, lamb lollipops, atomic buffalo turds, Singapore Spicy Sambal Sausage) along the way. MORE INFO HERE.
February 15-18, 2023: National Barbecue & Grilling Association National Conference — Kissimmee, Florida
The National Barbecue & Grilling Association (NBBQA) will be hosting its annual national conference in early 2023. Expect great classes, speakers, food, competitions, and much more at this event. MORE INFO HERE.
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