Grill Master Steven Raichlen Talks Veggies, BBQ Trends, and More
Steven Raichlen Talks Grilling Veggies, New BBQ Trends, & More
In the world of grilling and barbecue, few writers could go toe to toe with Steven Raichlen, who has authored a whopping 32 culinary books, hosted multiple TV shows focused on live-fire cooking, and was inducted into the Barbecue Hall of Fame in 2015.
Raichlen’s latest book, How to Grill Vegetables, was released in mid-May 2021 and could have caught some of his meat-loving fans by surprise. In the book, Raichlen explores many aspects of vegetable-forward cooking with 125 recipes, including elote quesadillas with grilled corn and poblano peppers; smoke-roasted German-style potato salad; Nashville hot cauliflower, ember-grilled barbecued onions; and Hasselback apples grilled on cedar planks.
As hardcore barbecue lovers, we’ve been intrigued by the book and Raichlen’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of what people consider barbecue. We spoke with Raichlen this week about the new book, trends he has been seeing in grilling and barbecue as of late, Father’s Day gifts, and much more.
Below, we feature some of the best bits of our chat with him. This conversation has been lightly edited for clarity.
Steven Raichlen has been one of the biggest names in grilling for years.
The Smoke Sheet: Your new book is focused primarily on vegetables. What made you want to write how to grill vegetables now?
Steven Raichlen: It was time. There’s a huge amount of interest in plant-based foods, everything from Beyond and Impossible burgers to just caring about the health of the planet. But the reason for me was really more personal. My stepdaughter’s a vegetarian, my cousin is a vegetarian, and my wife has strong vegetarian leanings. In fact, every time I leave the house for a day or two, I'm afraid I'm gonna come home to a full-bore vegetarian. So I figured I’ve really got to up my game with grilled vegetables. I say that a little tongue in cheek, but it's true. … The other thing is that if you look at my books, I tend to drill down on one particular arena of barbecue, you know, the field, the barbecue. Just like my last book The Brisket Chronicles. And now I’ve focused on vegetables.
TSS: What was the reception from hardcore meat-eaters when you announced the book initially?
SR: The last time I went out on a book tour was two years ago. And I went to places like Texas and Kansas City, and I announced that I was writing a book on grilled vegetables. There were the usual groans and catcalls, but then afterward, the guys would come up to me one by one and say, “I'm really, really looking forward to that book.” So I think even diehard meat-eaters want to incorporate more grilled vegetables into their diets.
TSS: Could you share a few tips for the average meathead who hasn’t grilled many vegetables?
SR: The first big takeaway is that one size does not fit all. Many softer, high-moisture, and smaller vegetables demand direct grilling. But your harder, larger, and firmer vegetables like acorn squash and potatoes really do best with indirect grilling. Some vegetables can be cooked on a rotisserie like whole cauliflower, or whole stalks of Brussels sprouts. Wet vegetables do very well with smoke, like cutting a tomato in half and smoking it. On the other hand, if you try and smoke a hard vegetable like winter squash, you'll get a layer of smoke that tastes a little bit like the inside of an ashtray. And finally, you know, some vegetables scream to be charred directly beyond recognition on a bed of hot embers like eggplants or onions or bell peppers. … The second lesson is that while every vegetable can be grilled, grilling vegetables is different than grilling meat because all meats have some level of fat in them. No vegetables have fat in them. So you need to add some kind of fat back to them like oil or marinade or butter in a basting sauce.
Steven Raichlen’s newest book is called How to Grill Vegetables and explores all kinds of veggie items.
TSS: Some of the recipes in the book also include meat as well, so hopefully it’s not too scary for the hardcore barbecue folks.
SR: I would call those sort of gateway dishes. The breakdown in How to Grill Vegetables is about 10% veggies with meat, 60 to 70% vegan, and 90% vegetarian. So, you know, there's really something for everyone. … Also another factor for why they would be interested is that meat prices are astronomical right now, so I think it's nice for people to have the option to incorporate a few more affordable plant foods into their diets.
TSS: Do you think the trend of vegan BBQ will have any impact on traditional BBQ?
SR: I think it can make an impact, but I don't think it will ever replace traditional barbecue. But there's a tremendous amount of creativity. … Some of the vegan meals I've had at chef-driven vegan restaurants are some of the most creative I've ever had in my life. And I think that some of that will carry over into barbecue. Even something like the Impossible burger or Beyond burger, those will turn up at some barbecue places and certainly at burger joints. It’s become part of the American vernacular now.
Smoked Guacamole with Grilled Chia Seed Totopos is one of the delicious recipes in Steven Raichlen’s new book.
TSS: The third season of Project Fire is now airing on PBS. How challenging was it to shoot the latest season?
SR: I must say, it was a poignant experience taping this year during COVID. Hats off and thank you to my crew, who would do 10-to-12-hour days wearing masks. When I was speaking I obviously took my mask off. But it was also kind of weird in that one of the benefits of doing a barbecue show is at the end of the show, we all sit down and we have this incredible meal together. And this time we had six-foot tables and everybody had to sit at the far end of these tables. So, you know, the world has undergone a trauma. And we were lucky to have been able to make a TV show during that trauma. We were also lucky because nobody got sick. And the week after we finished, a similar production got shut down because three people got sick.
TSS: One of our favorite topics you covered from the newest season of Project Fire has been ribs. How was making that episode focused on ribs and did anything stand out?
SR: Ribs are the epitome of barbecue. Even more in a way than brisket or steak, right? Because with ribs, you eat with your hands and you rip them apart with your hands. But one fun part of the show is we introduced a new feature this year called the mystery box, where I'd get on-set and there'd be a box. I’d lift it up and there'll be an ingredient for me to grill and I wouldn't know what I would find. Then they set up a little pantry where I could get other ingredients I needed. And one of the mystery boxes was lamb ribs, and I adore lamb ribs. I did them on a Big Green Egg, cooked them super crusty, and did them with Middle Eastern seasonings and a yogurt sauce. ... We also did Korean short ribs using a very interesting cut called a diamond cut. So you cross-hatch in one direction, cross-hatch the other, and turn it over to do that in the same way. And that tenderizes the beef even further and it gives you an almost burnt-end kind of experience. That paired with a sweet, salty, nutty, sesame, soy, and sugar marinade. The third dish was baby back ribs with a chipotle barbecue sauce. This is a good reminder that the show is not just all about vegetables.
Another new innovative recipe from Raichlen is the cedar-planked eggplant parmigiana.
TSS: We’ve seen a pretty big rise in technology-assisted barbecue grills and tools lately. What do you think of them?
SR: Pellet grills, wireless thermometers, and smokers that interface with your phone have become huge. But you know, people should think about the recent trends of cyber ransoms and cyber-attacks and how that can impact you. I live on Martha's Vineyard, and the steamship authority that provides ferry service between us and the mainland was hacked recently. So you cannot make a reservation and you cannot pay for a reservation with anything other than cash. You cannot get off the island if you didn't have a reservation, except by waiting in line. I’m sort of proud of us that we haven't paid the ransom. But I would just warn you, you need to learn how to cook without those tools and learn to judge a brisket by touch. Because someday if we ever get shut down, I still want you to be able to grill and smoke.
TSS: What are some of the biggest trends or things people should be looking out for the next six months in the barbecue and grilling world?
SR: Obviously, first up is plant-based grilling, which I think is going to continue to grow. I would also say the spotlight on diversity and barbecue is getting bigger and I just wrote about Black Smoke, which is a great book about the contribution of African-Americans to American barbecue. … We will also see many more ethnic influences entering our barbecue. …. I’ve been naming grilling with wood as a “trend of the year” for the last 10 years, but I think, with the advent of grills like the KUDU, which helps you grill with wood affordably, that will be a big one. … And as meat prices go up, look for alternatives to pop up. The other day I saw somebody cooked a pork belly like a brisket.
Steven Raichlen was inducted into the Barbecue Hall of Fame in 2015.
TSS: On a fun final note, Father’s is coming up soon. Do you have any recommendations for last-minute Father’s Day gifts for the griller or smoker in your life?
SR: I run this school called Barbecue University in South Carolina. So that is a great gift. Another is How to Grill Vegetables if you want dad to eat more healthily. We also just put a cool barbecue flavor box together that has some of my barbecue spice rubs, smoking wood chips, and more. … Otherwise, a good knife is always something that dads appreciate. You can also do mail-order meat, like buying an incredible A5 Wagyu steak from Japan from a company like Crowd Cow. That would be an awesome gift.
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Thank you to Steven for the great conversation, and we encourage our readers to check out the new book if you’re looking to add more flavors and versatility to your grilling and barbecue.
Sean Ludwig (NYC BBQ) and Ryan Cooper (BBQ Tourist)
Co-Founder, The Smoke Sheet
Photos excerpted from How to Grill Vegetables by Steven Raichlen, photographs by Steven Randazzo. Workman Publishing © 2021
ChefsTemp was thrilled to support the Big Bear Grill & Chill BBQ Festival this Memorial Day and get our brand new Finaltouch X10 digital meat thermometer into so many hands! Get your BBQ to the right temp every time with ChefsTemp. It's also an amazing Father's Day gift. Get yours today!
—The Jack Daniel’s World Championship Invitational Barbecue is set to return this October. (Photo courtesy of Jack Daniel’s Distillery)—
HOT OFF THE PRESS
The Jack Daniel’s Distillery is set to once again hold its World Invitational Barbecue contest in Lynchburg, Tennessee this October. The official announcement came yesterday that the prestigious barbecue contest will be held on October 8-9, 2021. Last year’s contest was canceled due to the pandemic. Elite barbecue teams and enthusiasts will visit Lynchburg Square and Wiseman Park. Jack Daniel’s Distillery manager Larry Combs said, “We hope everyone will mark their calendars … because there will be smoke back again in the Hollow.” READ MORE.
Last week, Home Team BBQ announced that they are partnering with Swig & Swine BBQ and Robert Moss from Southern Living to hold the Holy Smokes: Lowcountry Barbecue Festival in November. The event will be held on November 13 at The Bend in North Charleston and will bring barbecue pitmasters and enthusiasts to the Holy City. A list of those who will be participating will be announced later, so stay tuned. READ MORE.
In another sign that life is slowly getting back to normal, Aaron Franklin announced that Franklin Barbecue will re-open for normal operations starting September 1. The restaurant switched to curbside operations and online ordering back in March of 2020. Franklin said that the restaurant’s small space and the inability to socially distance has kept the restaurant closed for in-person dining but that he is ready for that to change. The acclaimed pitmaster said he “can't wait to start giving out some hugs and high-fives. The amount of love and goodwill that happens out in this hot parking lot is pretty magical, and I think we all really miss it." READ MORE.
Eater Nashville released a list of the best food spots within a short drive of Music City, which includes several notable barbecue joints. Some spots we have had the pleasure of enjoying, including Helen’s Bar-B-Q in Brownsville, Blake’s BBQ in Martin, and B.E. Scott’s Bar-B-Que (also known as Scott’s-Parker’s) in Lexington, made the list and are worthy of a road trip. READ MORE.
José R. Ralat, the taco editor for Texas Monthly, stopped by Kansas City to highlight some of the best and most interesting tacos in the city. He includes two restaurants known serving great barbecue on his list — Chef J BBQ and the Fox and Pearl. Both of these joints specialize in Texas-style smoked meats and serve them up in tasty tacos with unique fillings. READ MORE.
Rolling Stone rounded up five of the best barbecue spots around Missouri. While notable joints from Kansas City and St. Louis of course made the list, several lesser-known restaurants made the cut as well, including Wobbly Boots BBQ in Osage Beach, Gettin’ Basted in Branson, and City Butcher in Springfield. READ HERE.
ADDITIONAL READS
Here are the 13 best wines to pair with your barbecue this summer, according to the Robb Report.
Kevin Kelly of Kevin’s BBQ Joints continues to compile useful info for barbecue fans, this time creating a list of barbecue restaurants in Texas that are open on Mondays.
Austin barbecue staple Terry Black’s opened a location in Deep Ellum and is now eyeing an expansion into Houston.
Helberg Barbecue near Waco, TX pairs craft barbecue with a personal touch, according to Dallas Observer’s Chris Wolfgang.
Acclaimed Oakland pitmaster Matt Horn announced details for two new Oakland restaurants — one focused on chicken and the other on burgers.
The Atlanta property that was once home to B’s Cracklin’ Barbeque is becoming a food truck park and community green space.
The Dallas Observer reports that Hurtado Barbecue is crushing barbecue brunch in Arlington.
Several barbecue books have been released in 2021 and Book Authority has published a list of 28 great new BBQ books to read this year.
The Houston Chronicle’s J.C. Reid wrote about pitmaster Ara Malekian, who is competing on season 2 of BBQ Brawl.
The successful barbecue journey of Malaysian-born pitmaster Harry Soo of Slap Yo’ Daddy BBQ has been anything but typical.
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—Minneapolis chef Yia Vang discusses Hmong cooking in the latest episode of Smoke Point.—
WATCH
How Chef Yia Vang Honors Hmong Cooking With Open Fire Feasts — Smoke Point
Chef Yia Vang of Vinai in Minneapolis tells the story of his culture and the Hmong people through open-fire cooking and feasts. For Vang, live-fire cooking is not a trend, it’s part of his culture and who he is as a person. WATCH HERE.
LISTEN
BBQ Fest in Denver, Jacksonville, St. Louis & KC with Brian Wahby — BBQ Radio Nation
Brian Wahby is the owner of Eximius Productions, which produces huge public BBQ & music festivals in St. Louis, Denver, Jacksonville, and Kansas City – with more cities joining the lineup along the way. These festivals feature top pitmasters from the U.S. making their BBQ available to the public. He talks about the journey and what to expect. Also, Dan and Dave talk about ribs, burgers, and FAST barbecuing for the weekend. LISTEN HERE.
READ
Weeknight Smoking on Your Traeger and Other Pellet Grills: Incredible Wood-Fired Meals Made Fast and Easy — Adam McKenzie
It’s easier than ever to enjoy your favorite smoky flavors whenever you want, even on your busiest weeknights. Adam McKenzie is here to show you how to master your Traeger for meals that are fuss-free and packed with flavor. Teacher by day, king of the grill by night, Adam has learned all the tips and tricks to make Traeger cooking fit into anyone’s busy life. With these brilliant recipes, you’ll want to cook with your Traeger every day! As a bonus, he’s adapted traditionally slow-cooked barbecue recipes to be faster and easier using the unique features of pellet grills. Best of all, Adam includes recipes for a variety of meats, perfect for any griller no matter their tastes. With each delicious recipe, Adam helps to take the stress out of weeknight cooking. Gather your goods, fire up your Traeger and you’ll have a tantalizing barbecue dinner ready in no time. ORDER HERE.
Thank you to our sponsor DennyMike's, which offers outstanding seasonings and rubs for every situation. Learn more about DennyMike's here.
illed lobster can be combined with steak for a great surf-and-turf meal or served on its own. (Photo by Ken Goodman)—
Butter Basted Smoked Lobster Tail
By Adam McKenzie
You could make these lobster tails as a stand-alone main for a great meal, or pair them with a Traeger-grilled steak for an amazing surf-and-turf combo. By cutting the lobster meat out of the shell and placing it on top, you maintain the shape of the tail and have a dramatic presentation that’s easy to eat and cooks very quickly. As you cook the lobster, put some lemon halves cut side down on the grill and serve this simple dish with caramelized lemon wedges. This is an amazing and decadent weeknight meal!
Reprinted with permission from Weeknight Smoking on Your Traeger by Adam McKenzie; Page Street Publishing, Co.; May 2021 Photo Credit: Ken Goodman
Thank you to our sponsor Raikes Beef, which offers 100% Nebraska born and raised American Wagyu and Angus beef. Learn more about Raikes Beef Co. here.
—Early 2021 may be light on larger barbecue events, but we expect many to happen later in the year.—
July 9-11, 2021: Kansas City BBQ Festival — Kansas City, Missouri
Kansas City is about to get a big new barbecue festival with the “KCQ,” a non-competition barbecue event that celebrates barbecue from Kansas City and many other barbecue towns. It will take place in the parking lot of Arrowhead Stadium and feature barbecue from KC-based mainstays Joe’s Kansas City, Jones Bar-B-Q, and Plowboys BBQ. Out-of-towners will also be there, including 2M Smokehouse, Black’s BBQ, Central City BBQ, and Sugarfire Smokehouse. MORE INFO HERE.
July 9-11, 2021: Windy City Smokeout BBQ & Country Music Festival — Chicago, Illinois
Get ready for beer, BBQ, and country tunes, because the Windy City Smokeout BBQ & Country Music Festival is returning to Chicago. The Windy City Smokeout is one of the largest barbecue festivals in the U.S. and typically features the world’s best pitmasters and more than 15 musical acts. Read our to learn about the experience. MORE INFO HERE.
July 16-17, 2021: Golden Days Championship — Fairbanks, Alaska
The northernmost barbecue competition (maybe in the world?) is taking place in Fairbanks, Alaska, which is also the birthplace of the Alaska BBQ Association. This competition follows the KCBS sanctioned rules as the Grand Champion receives an invitation to the Jack Daniel’s World Championship Invitational. It’s also notable in that the sun basically doesn’t go down the entire time the comp is happening. MORE INFO HERE.
July 31 & August 1, 2021: Beer, Bourbon, & BBQ Festival — Brooklyn, New York
NYC’s Beer, Bourbon, & BBQ Festival is back and better than ever! Get ready to enjoy all those pleasures that true Southerners live by – Beer, Bourbon, Barbecue, Boots, Bacon, Biscuits, Bluegrass, and Smoked Beasts. It’s a great day of beer sippin’, bourbon tastin’, music listenin’, cigar smokin’, and barbecue eatin’. One admission buys you a sampling glass so you can enjoy an all-you-care-to-taste sampling of beer and bourbon. MORE INFO HERE.
August 21-22, 2021: Meatstock Music and Barbecue Festival (Sydney edition) — Sydney, Australia
Meatstock returns with a typically stacked line-up of barbecue enthusiasts and bands. The sell-out, two-day event brings big-name American pitmasters Down Under; sees comp teams from across Sydney go head-to-head over the coals to be crowned the city’s best barbequers; and features live music, food trucks and pop-up bars. MORE INFO HERE.
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