Adrian Miller Talks About Rewriting Barbecue History
Last week, we shared part one of our interview with Adrian Miller, author of the anticipated new book Black Smoke: African Americans and the United States of Barbecue. In it, Miller told us about his unexpected path to becoming a food writer, how soul food differs from barbecue, and some surprising bits of barbecue history.
But our conversation covered so many good and varied topics that we decided to chop it into two parts in order to bring you more from the “Soul Food Scholar” himself. Miller’s new book was released this week, and we can’t wait to dig into it, so the conversation is timely.
Below we share the second and final part of our extensive conversation with Miller. This interview has been edited slightly for clarity.
Author Adrian Miller has just released his long-awaited book Black Smoke.
The Smoke Sheet: What were some of the biggest surprises you learned in your research for Black Smoke?
Adrian Miller: For me, it was the Native American foundations [of barbecue]. Typically, the backstory we get on barbecue is that Europeans show up in the Caribbean islands. They see indigenous people cooking this way and it’s new to them. They call it barbecue and it’s eventually brought to the mainland of North America. That narrative never really made sense to me because the way illustrations of how indigenous people were doing it on the islands was very different than Southern barbecue. It’s the difference between cooking over a raised platform over a slow fire [versus] digging a trench full of coals that are burning and having whole animal carcasses that are split and flipped periodically to cook in sauce. I tried to figure out the American story. Looking at what indigenous people were doing on the mainland of North America, they had their own unique cooking traditions.
TSS: Besides illustrations, were there any other things you found to support the idea of Native American foundations for American barbecue?
AM: I spoke to Native Americans I know and asked them about their traditions. And fortunately, a lot of people observed what Native Americans were doing back then. So it was a matter of finding those things. I tried to find what Europeans were observing and showed how to put us on the road to barbecue we know today. … Today it’s fashionable for people to say, ‘barbecue is not different, it’s the same as what they were doing in the Middle East, Japan, etc. But that’s not the way Europeans spoke of it at that time. They were acting like barbecue was something new to them, so I was trying to capture that moment.
TSS: Was there anything that surprised you while learning more about the history of competition barbecue?
AM: One thing that comes to mind is a lot of people don’t know that a Black woman won the first Memphis in May competition. She showed up with a very basic setup. That was back in the day when local home cooks could show up and do their thing. Bessie Cathey was her name but a lot of people don’t hear about her. … I wrote about her in the book, but unfortunately, I could not track her down because I think she has passed and could not find relatives. But I do point out that fact.
Black Smoke tells untold stories about Black pitmasters and features numerous recipes.
TSS: Since you are a Colorado-based barbecue writer, this is a fun one. Recently, there has sort of been a feud between Texas and Kansas City barbecue. Do you have any thoughts on regional rivalries in general?
AM: Barbecue rivalries are a lot of fun. But I have to give it up to Central Texas. They have been serious boosters for their regional style, so much so that Central Texas is the default barbecue style. Not only for the United States but for the whole world. When I go to Europe and other places, when people are talking about barbecue, they are talking about Aaron Franklin and watching his videos and then showing me what they’re making. … I have actually thought for a long time that the default style was actually Memphis because you didn’t see burnt ends and stuff like that outside of Kansas City and so most barbecue joints were focused on ribs, pulled pork, some chicken, maybe some sausages, and a thicker sauce that wasn’t quite as thick as Kansas City’s. That evokes Memphis.
TSS: Speaking of regional styles, do you have a favorite style of barbecue?
AM: I have to say my first love is Kansas City, then Memphis, then Central Texas. And Central Texas is climbing the charts. … I grew up in Denver and Kansas City was a strong influence. I do think it’s time for Kansas City to assert itself more strongly, especially when it comes to burnt ends. They were asleep at the wheel and it feels like Texas has stolen burnt ends. In my book, I write that burnt ends have a clear origin story and that’s not always the case in barbecue. We know that Arthur Bryant is the first one to start marketing it at least. And I write about burnt ends being gentrified. The burnt ends that Arthur Bryant served are completely different from the manicured, Instagrammable burnt ends that are being served today.
One up-and-coming pitmaster spotlighted by Miller is Matt Horn from Oakland, California. (Photo via Horn Barbecue / Facebook)
TSS: If you could only eat one of the recipes you featured in your book for the rest of your life, like a desert island recipe, what would it be?
AM: Dang, that’s hard. A lot of people might not say it’s barbecue but the lemon-pepper wings I feature are pretty bomb. It’s from a blogger named Angela Davis, who is known as The Kitchenista. I actually won a contest once with those wings.
TSS: Do you plan on attending any barbecue events this year?
AM: I think I will but likely in the late summer and early fall. I’ve been approached about events in May and June but there’s still so much uncertainty right now. … The American Royal in September, for example, is something I could see myself going to.
TSS: Last question: Are there any up-and-coming Black pitmasters who you think we should keep an eye on as the next big barbecue celebrity?
AM: Matt Horn in Oakland. I think he’s got great food but his marketing is off the chain. He has shown up in so many places and has built quite a following. That’s the future of barbecue. If you’re going to be a restaurateur, it’s all about figuring out how to get people to stand in line for your food. So I love what he’s doing and he has a lot of savvy. Two others who I love what they are doing are Derrick Walker from Smoke-A-Holics in Fort Worth and Bryan Furman in Atlanta. … I wish I could put some women on that list as well but a lot of them are already established. But I am on the lookout for more Black women in the barbecue game.
--
Thank you to Adrian Miller for the great conversation and for teaching us a few new things. You can buy Black Smoke here.
Sean Ludwig (NYC BBQ) & Ryan Cooper (BBQ Tourist)
Co-Founders, The Smoke Sheet
At FOGO, we believe charcoal is the First Ingredient, and that is why we focus on flavor and longevity. We use a blend of hardwoods, which give your finished product a mild smoky flavor. We also hand pick the charcoal to offer you consistent big size lumps that are perfect for your everyday grilling and smoking sessions. Learn more about FOGO here.
—One of the top recipients of the Kingsford Preserve the Pit Fellowship was couple Cory and Tarra Davis from Grand Rapids, Michigan.—
HOT OFF THE PRESS
This week, Kingsford announced the inaugural class of its Preserve the Pit Fellowship, which was started with the goal of helping up-and-coming Black pitmasters. The winners of the fellowship will receive grants, training, and one-on-one mentorship with established names in the barbecue industry. One of the top three winners was couple Cory and Tarra Davis, who own Daddy Pete’s BBQ in Grand Rapids, Michigan. “Cory and Tarra are a great example of what Preserve the Pit is all about,” said Shaunte Mears-Watkins, vice president of strategy and marketing for Kingsford. “They come from generations of pitmasters, are passionate about preserving its history, and are eager to create a legacy with their business that will inspire future generations. We’re so happy to be able to support them throughout their journey.” READ HERE.
A few years ago, Georgia pitmaster Bryan Furman was on the rise as one of Georgia’s most exciting whole-hog pitmasters, but a devastating fire destroyed his B’s Cracklin’ Barbecue joint in Atlanta. Following that, he also closed his barbecue counter at a Kroger location, went through a divorce, and tried to make it through the pandemic. Now, Furman is ready for his comeback with a new restaurant with a new name and attitude — Bryan Furman BBQ. The joint will open in the Riverside neighborhood in 2022. “I want to keep it old school,” Furman told Eater Atlanta. “I want it to look like a South Carolina rib shack. Of course, we’ll have indoor and outdoor seating, and I want a bigger smoker. But I want it to symbolize me: simple, rustic, and real. Bryan Furman.” READ HERE.
Beloved Winston-Salem, N.C. joint Mr. Barbecue has reopened two years after a fire from its wood-burning pits destroyed nearly everything inside the restaurant. Owner Jimmy Carros was slowed down by the pandemic, but is now firmly back in business, Eater Carolinas reports. The community clearly missed the joint and more than 100 people lining up before its doors opened last month. Mr. Barbecue is one of the only spots locally that maintain the tradition of cooking pork exclusively over wood-burning pits, The Campaign for Real Barbecue reports, so it’s nice that the spot has returned. READ HERE.
Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn reports that Burnt Bean Co., a new barbecue joint in Seguin, is a standout that is worth the trip. “I’ve simply never been to a barbecue joint that is this good so soon after its opening,” Vaughn writes. “The weak spots in a barbecue menu are generally multiple and obvious, but after trying breakfast (served on Sundays only) and lunch in a single day at Burnt Bean Co., I have no holes to report. Both meals were flawless.” If you stop by, make sure you try the tacos, huevos rancheros, brisket, and barbacoa. READ HERE.
After seeing recent barbecue legal news in The Smoke Sheet and The Cue Sheet, barbecue enthusiast and blogger John Tanner wrote about a historic Supreme Court case in a post about where barbecue meets the law. "But three can play at this game, and everyone interested in barbecue should be aware of the landmark case of Katzenbach v. McClung," Tanner writes. "Ollie’s was a barbecue place in Birmingham that cooked the best barbecue in the world, aided by the best barbecue sauce in the world. The case was argued before the Supreme Court on October 5, 1964, my 15th birthday, and involved a challenge to the Civil Rights Act. Ollie McClung believed that he did not have to desegregate his restaurant (there was a separate carry-out only window for black customers) because it was too small to affect interstate commerce, and thus fell outside Congress’ power under the Commerce Clause. ... It was a huge case, and gave all people equal access to the best barbecue the world." READ HERE.
ADDITIONAL READS
Here’s how Grady’s BBQ, North Carolina’s only Black-owned whole hog barbecue restaurant survived the COVID-19 pandemic.
The Houston Chronicle’s J.C. Reid writes about why more Texas barbecue joints are making their own sausage.
The folks at Dallas Observer share their favorite spots in the Dallas-Fort Worth area where you can get great barbecue for breakfast.
Griddle grilling is increasingly popular these days and Paul Sidoriak writes on AmazingRibs.com about everything you need to know to get started.
Peg Leg Porker’s Carey Bringle plans a fundraiser for the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society
Acclaimed pitmaster Myron Mixon lost 100 pounds without giving up the barbecue he is famous for and will release his book Keto BBQ next month.
Adam McKenzie, the pitmaster behind This Jew Can Cue, will release his first cookbook next month.
Savannah Hawley recently gave an overview of the slow-cooked history of Kansas City barbecue in an article in The Pitch.
The Kansas City Chiefs have joined forces with Spicin Foods to create an official line of barbecue and hot sauces, including a limited edition six-pack featuring Patrick Mahomes and other players.
Sonny’s BBQ is set to close its Charlotte location after 40-plus years.
After thirteen months of take-out and delivery only, San Diego’s Cali Comfort BBQ opens indoor dining.
As beef prices have gone up recently, pork prices are set to rise this summer during BBQ season.
The cooking website Epicurious says it will no longer be publishing new beef recipes.
Join The Smoke Sheet and Grill Girl each Thursday for our new show, This Week In Grilling and BBQ. Watch live on The Smoke Sheet’s Facebook page.
—Mad Scientist BBQ featured three brisket cooking methods in a recent popular video.—
WATCH
School Brisket Wrap Test — Mad Scientist BBQ
In a new video, science teacher and pitmaster Jeremy Yoder of Mad Scientist BBQ tested out three brisket cooking methods — unwrapped, butcher paper wrap, and foil wrap. He acknowledges that the most popular option today appears to be butcher paper but still wants to try for himself. He tests out the methods with three Costco Prime briskets and treats all of them the same minus the wrap. The results may surprise you. WATCH HERE.
LISTEN
Robert Austin Cho of Kimchi Smoke — Fire & Beer
For this episode of Fire & Beer, host Marcel Gomez is joined by Robert Austin Cho, chef/owner of award-winning restaurant Kimchi Smoke in Westwood, New Jersey. Growing up in New Jersey, Robert had little experience with real BBQ but he became fascinated after watching television shows on the Food Network. He began spending most of his free time experimenting with smoking on a small, portable grill at his apartment. His love for backyard BBQ led him to try his hand at competitions, where he began building a following. Eventually, he created Kimchi Smoke, where he serves American BBQ with a Korean influence (just don’t call it fusion). LISTEN HERE.
READ
Skewered: Recipes for Fire Food on Sticks from Around the World — Marcus Bawdon
Marcus Bawdon, bestselling author of Food and Fire, brings you further recipes to cook over the flames. This time around, they are all skewered on a variety of sticks: metal, wood, rosemary, lemongrass, and bay, among others. Not only is this a quick and easy way to cook, but the skewers themselves can add flavor to the food that is cooked on them. And this method of cooking, with food brought close to the flames, produces a beautiful caramelized effect that tastes as good as it looks. Easy to prepare in advance, so there are no last-minute panics, skewers are perfect for entertaining, and this method can be used on everything from meat, fish, and vegetables to fruit. ORDER HERE.
FOGO Premium Lump Charcoal lights quickly and burns hotter and longer. Click here to learn more about FOGO Charcoal.
—Repurpose your BBQ leftovers with this delicious smoked mac 'n' cheese side dish.—
Smoked Brisket Mac 'n' Cheese
By The Dawgfatha’s BBQ
For this week’s Recipe of the Week, we chose this video recipe for Smoked Brisket Mac 'n' Cheese from The Dawgfatha’s BBQ. Alton shows you how you can repurpose your leftover brisket in this dish. This is an easy recipe that you can modify to make yours and satisfy the crowd at your next BBQ gathering.
Dalstrong creates best-in-class tools at unrivaled price points. Click here to learn more about Dalstrong Knives.
—Early 2021 may be light on larger barbecue events, but we expect many to happen later in the year.—
May 7-8, 2021: The BBQ Fest on the Neuse — Kinston, North Carolina
The 39th annual BBQ Festival on the Neuse kicks off soon in Kinston, NC. The 2020 version of the event was canceled due to COVID-19, but it’s back in 2021 with a slightly different setup for safely. The festival will include barbecue, food competitions, shopping, arts and crafts, wine garden, children’s activities, and more. Expect a good time for families and BBQ enthusiasts. MORE INFO HERE.
May 12-15, 2021: Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest — Memphis, Tennessee
This four-day competition will be held in Tom Lee Park on the banks of the Mississippi River in downtown Memphis. Teams travel from around the world to compete for the title of World Champion and a share of the more than $115,000 in prize money. Teams will compete in the championship pork categories of Ribs, Shoulder, and Whole Hog, as well as the ancillary competitions of Hot Wings, Sauce, and “Anything But Pork.” MORE INFO HERE.
June 4-5, 2021: Hogs For the Cause — New Orleans, Louisiana
The bug Hogs For the Cause barbecue competition and festival is back in 2021 with a few changes. Proceeds still go to fight pediatric brain cancer, but this year's event will be held at a 15-acre site in Belle Chasse on the east side of the city. Organizers are limiting ticket sales to only 25% of the venue's capacity, and they will make the event cashless. MORE INFO HERE.
July 9-11, 2021: Windy City Smokeout BBQ & Country Music Festival — Chicago, Illinois
Get ready for beer, BBQ, and country tunes, because the Windy City Smokeout BBQ & Country Music Festival is returning to Chicago. The Windy City Smokeout is one of the largest barbecue festivals in the U.S. and typically features the world’s best pitmasters and more than 15 musical acts. Read our to learn about the experience. MORE INFO HERE.
NOTE: Due to the pandemic, it’s possible these dates and details might change. For the latest details, please check out our full events calendar.
Thanks for reading our newsletter!
Want to be featured in or sponsor The Smoke Sheet?
Email us here!