Author Adrian Miller Shares Untold Black Pitmaster Stories
Adrian Miller Shares Untold Black Pitmaster Stories
Author Adrian Miller has been writing about African-American cuisine in its various forms for more than a decade, so much so that he goes by the nickname “Soul Food Scholar.” Miller has closely examined soul food traditions that have been passed down for many years, but now he’s turned his academic eye on the world of American barbecue.
Miller’s third book is Black Smoke: African Americans and the United States of Barbecue, which is out in stores on April 28 and has been collecting accolades for sharing previously unknown stories. In Black Smoke, Miller (a barbecue judge himself) examines how African Americans developed unique barbecue techniques that went on to influence generations of pitmasters while simultaneously being underrepresented in media. The book also includes delicious 22 recipes that pair well with the stories he tells.
Below we share the first part of our extensive (and fun) interview with Adrian Miller. This conversation has been edited slightly for clarity.
Adrian Miller is known as the “Soul Food Scholar” and is the author of the much-talked-about new book Black Smoke.
The Smoke Sheet: How did you get started in writing about food?
Adrian Miller: The short answer is unemployment. The long answer is that I was working in the Clinton White House about 21 years ago and at that point in my life I wanted to be a Senator from Colorado. When my stint with President Clinton ended, I wanted to go back to Colorado and get immersed in the community. But the job market was really slow. I started reading more food books and stumbled across John Egerton’s Southern Food. Early in that book, he wrote that the tribute to Black achievement in American cookery had yet to be written. With no qualifications at all except eating a lot of soul food, I thought, ‘I could do that.’ I reached out to Egerton cold and asked, ‘You wrote this 14 years ago. Do you think it’s still true?’ He said, ‘Some people had addressed parts of the story but not all and that there was room for another voice. Why not yours?’ And that launched my journey back in 2001.
TSS: What made you want to jump from soul food writing to barbecue?
AM: Anyone who is immersed in Black food culture knows that most soul food restaurants have some barbecue options on their menu. Truth be told, it’s often baked with barbecue sauce a lot of the time, but they do offer it. And many Black-owned barbecue restaurants offer soul food sides. When I was writing a soul food book, I figured I also needed to learn more about barbecue. At that time, I felt the cultures were very connected. When I was learning about barbecue, I started noticing these disparities in representation, especially in print and TV media. Local media at that time was still pretty good about including African Americans in local barbecue scenes, but in a lot of other places, you wouldn't know that Black people barbecue. It got so pronounced that I felt the need to write a book that is part restoration about bringing African Americans back into the story and part celebration of barbecue culture.
Black Smoke tells the untold stories of notable Black barbecuers, pitmasters, and restaurateurs in the U.S.
TSS: As the “soul food scholar” and BBQ book author, how do you separate soul food and barbecue? Is there a distinct difference?
AM: Soul food is the combining of culinary techniques and ingredients of West Africa, Western Europe, and the Americas that take shape in the South. So I think of fried chicken, greens, black-eyed peas, and those kinds of things. Barbecue has its own independent track but the two get joined and conflated later. What I argue in my book is that barbecue as we know it is Native American in origin. It’s later that Europeans and Africans get thrown into the mix as this cuisine develops and becomes what we think of it today. It’s almost like they have parallel tracks but they occasionally converge and diverge. So that’s why I think of barbecue as something separate.
TSS: On the flip side, some soul food and barbecue joints have very similar menus and culinary ideas, right?
AM: When you are in the deep South, for example, a lot of these traditions are melded together and it can be hard to separate them. One thing I observed in soul food, which I think carries on to barbecue, is that in the South a lot of these traditions are shared [over time]. So it can be hard to draw meaningful distinctions. When you get out of the South, then they start to sharpen and you’ll find barbecue restaurants with no soul food sides at all.
TSS: Do you have any idea on when Black barbecue voices started not being heard as frequently?
AM: It starts with a boom in food media. The Food Network starts in 1993, and then there is a corresponding change in food magazines that is more middle-class in their coverage. Unfortunately, the media in this country has tended to be non-diverse. As white people were searching for stories, they were reaching out to their networks and talking to other white people, it created somewhat of an echo chamber. Unless someone in that mix is concerned about diversity, they referred to other white people. So many people who were looking for authentic stories about barbecue were then referred to mostly white pitmasters. So in the 1990s, this all began to swirl together and gain momentum to where 10 years later, it was unavoidable to see what happened. … I note in my book that the template for vanishing Black voices was really just a rerun of what happened to Native Americans who pioneered early barbecue ideas.
One of the Black-owned barbecue joints Miller highlights in Black Smoke is LC's BBQ in Kansas City, whose founder L.C. Richardson passed away recently.
TSS: We’ve noticed that the competition barbecue scene sometimes is also lacking in diversity. Have you looked into that as well?
AM: I have noticed that the competition circuit tends to be white, but my feeling is that it’s mainly economics. Because if you’re going to be a real player on the circuit, that is a lot of money. You need your smoker, a rig, and pay the fees, and you need a life where you can go away from home multiple times a year from say, a Tuesday to a Sunday, depending on how you compete. To win the big prizes, you need to go all over. What I have found is most African Americans I know of on the circuit are restaurateurs or have careers where they can set their own hours or are retired. … Another thing is that there is a separate African-American barbecue ascetic. So, as someone who has been a judge, I see the pressure for conformity. Once someone wins, people begin to imitate them. The way that many African Americans make barbecue, I’m not sure it would do well in a competition setting.
TSS: In your new book, you share a lot of stories about older Black pitmasters. Can you share any surprising stories you came across when researching?
AM: One thing that might surprise a lot of readers is the extent to which Black women have been in the barbecue game for a long time. One of the best stories I uncovered in my research is the story of a woman named Marie John, who lived in 1840s Arkansas. She is basically what we would call a pitmaster today. There is a documented article of this Black woman telling dudes what to do at that time. She ends up buying her freedom and then runs a restaurant. When she dies in the 1850s, the white newspaper eulogized her. There’s some racism with the eulogy but they are praising this woman for her food. There are only a few references of her, so it’s hard to really know what her life was like but enough for me to do a profile.
TSS: Another unsung story we want to learn more about is Henry Perry, who is credited as the father of Kansas City barbecue. Did you find anything new about him?
AM: I actually found some really early articles where he is interviewed. And you really get a feel for him and his voice and he was a character. I love the interviews, from 1907 to 1911. Most scholars write that he showed up in Kansas City in 1905 and started barbecuing in an alley. But not long after that, he gets press attention. Another funny thing is that at the same time Henry Perry is proclaiming himself the King of Barbecue, another guy is doing the same thing in Kansas City. It was all about bragging rights.
TSS: What are some of your favorite Black-owned barbecue joints that you’ve been able to visit?
AM: In my book, I actually name my top 20. Unfortunately, three of them are in peril of closing because of COVID or deaths. One of my favorites is LC’s BBQ in Kansas City. I love that place and many people outside the city don’t talk about it but the locals know. Mr. Richardson died not too long ago. Grady’s Barbecue in Dudley, North Carolina is owned by an older Black couple doing pork shoulders, but I don’t know how much longer they are going to be doing it. It’s very good. Another place that I love is Burns Original BBQ in Houston, which is where Anthony Bourdain visited on his Houston program. And there’s a great place in Los Angeles called Bludso's Bar & Que. It’s straight-up legit stuff.
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Thank you to Adrian Miller for the great conversation. Our interview went a little long (we could chat with Adrian for hours), so we will be back next week with a few more fun insights from the book and from his travels around the U.S. Pre-order Black Smoke here and we look forward to sharing more next week.
Sean Ludwig (NYC BBQ) & Ryan Cooper (BBQ Tourist)
Co-Founders, The Smoke Sheet
—Wes Agee of Charlie’s BBQ & Bakery in Chattanooga passed away a few days ago.—
HOT OFF THE PRESS
The barbecue community lost pitmaster Wes Agee of Charlie’s BBQ & Bakery in Chattanooga, Tennessee on Saturday morning at the age of 54. He is survived by his two daughters, stepdaughter, and partner Elizabeth St. Clair. Agee was known for his passion for barbecue, his love for community, and his willingness to help others. He and St. Clair opened the restaurant in the Charlie’s Quik Stop building on Main Street in Chattanooga four years ago. Through the pandemic, Charlie’s served thousands of meals to those in need. A GoFundMe has been set up to cover funeral expenses. READ MORE.
According to The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, pitmaster Bryan Furman is staging a comeback with a new Riverside restaurant. His acclaimed restaurant B’s Cracklin BBQ was destroyed by a fire in 2019 and the original Savannah location and B’s counter Kroger location both closed last year. Furman announced plans for a new restaurant called Bryan Furman BBQ, where he will serve his signature whole hog, ribs, chicken, and more. The restaurant is slated to open early next year along with a Bryan Furman BBQ stand inside the State Farm Arena in downtown Atlanta. In the meantime, Furman will launch a barbecue tour of the Southeast to generate interest. READ MORE.
Martin Cizmar of Kansas City Magazine wrote about a recent trend in the Kansas City barbecue scene. Of the new barbecue restaurants that have opened in the city since the magazine’s 2019 survey, half are located at breweries. According to pitmaster Tyler Harp, who pioneered the model with his partnership with Crane Brewing in 2019 the culture of the KC brewing scene allows for a perfect pairing with barbecue. Taylor Jones of the new Burnt Theory Fire Kitchen at Diametric Brewing Co. says “It’s an atmosphere, it’s an attitude, it’s a mindset. Two groups of people crafting things with their hands for you.” READ MORE.
Kevin Kelly of Kevin’s BBQ Joints asked the owners at 158 BBQ joints what they would recommend to a first-time customer ordering at their restaurant to get the best experience and learn what they are all about. The results were surprising. Kelly left the responses unedited, with some providing long, detailed explanations and others sticking straight to the point. Kelly plans on adding to the list with more responses as he continues to reach out to owners and has created a separate “Texas-only” list due to popular demand. READ MORE.
Pepsi has taken notice of young pitmaster Eliana Gutierrez of Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ in Austin and will spotlight her as part of a mini-documentary series called The Taste of Your Texas. READ MORE.
ADDITIONAL READS
Pitmaster Derrick Walker’s acclaimed Fort Worth BBQ restaurant Smoke-a-holics debuts a new spinoff in the Crockett Row area of Fort Worth.
Alison Cook is looking forward to pitmaster Jim Buchanan’s take on the barbecue brunch at Dozier’s in Fulshear, Texas.
If you want to improve your skills, popular cookbook author and television host Steven Raichlen’s BBQ University is back at the Broadmoor Hotel in Colorado.
If you don’t have time to go to BBQ University, Pitmaster Russell Roegels of Roegels Barbecue Co. gives Houstonia his general guide and timeline for smoking brisket in the backyard.
Forbes listed the best new grills that you’ll need in the backyard for this barbecue season.
Not to be outdone, Southern Living gave their list of the 10 best barbecue smokers for pitmaster-quality meals at home.
Chef Dylan Lipe brings many years of experience to his new Salty Boar barbecue restaurant in Du Quoin, Illinois.
A suburban Atlanta barbecue restaurant owner will get $1.7 million to settle a federal lawsuit claiming he was harassed by government officials and employees.
Join The Smoke Sheet and Grill Girl each Thursday for our new show, This Week In Grilling and BBQ. Watch live on The Smoke Sheet’s Facebook page.
—For this week’s video recommendation, we featured a great Instagram conversation between the Robb Report and pitmaster Rodney Scott. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)—
WATCH
Rodney Scott Prime Rib Sandwich — Robb Report Culinary School
On this episode of Robb Report Culinary School, Scott joins restaurant editor Jeremy Repanich to talk about steak sandwiches instead of pulled pork. In a recipe Scott pulls from his new cookbook, Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ, shares the secrets to making a better barbecue steak sandwich at home, using some inspiration from the cheesesteak, but also some good old fashioned low-and-slow cooking and his signature South Carolina-style, vinegar-based sauce. WATCH HERE.
LISTEN
Bryan Furman — I Crush BBQ Show
Bryan Furman was on top of the culinary world in 2019. He finished as a semi-finalist for a James Beard Award, he had just been named one of America's Best New Chefs by Food & Wine magazine and Bon Appétit dubbed him Georgia's New King of BBQ. Just as all the stars seemed to have aligned for Bryan, it happened. During an overnight cook at his main location in the Riverside neighborhood of Atlanta, a fire broke out and in minutes destroyed what he worked so hard to build. It's been just over two years since that fateful night and through his hard work and determination, Bryan is now ready to make his highly anticipated return to the culinary world. This is just the beginning of the comeback story for Bryan Furman. LISTEN HERE
READ
Black Smoke: African Americans and the United States of Barbecue — Adrian Miller
In Black Smoke, Miller chronicles how Black barbecuers, pitmasters, and restaurateurs helped develop this cornerstone of American foodways and how they are coming into their own today. It's a smoke-filled story of Black perseverance, culinary innovation, and entrepreneurship. Though often pushed to the margins, African Americans have enriched a barbecue culture that has come to be embraced by all. Miller celebrates and restores the faces and stories of the men and women who have influenced this American cuisine. This beautifully illustrated chronicle also features 22 barbecue recipes collected just for this book. PRE-ORDER HERE.
When it comes to measuring cooking temperatures with speed and accuracy, Thermapen Mk4 is in a class by itself. Click here to learn more about the Thermapen MK4.
—Smoked and Braised Pork Shanks are the ultimate tender and delicious comfort food.—
Smoked and Braised Pork Shanks
By FOGO Charcoal
For this week’s Recipe of the Week, we chose this video recipe for Smoked and Braised Pork Shanks by Ron Dimpflmaier from FOGO Charcoal. The shank is from the front forearm of the pig and is normally considered to be a tough cut of meat. It is commonly prepared as a braised meat because the long, wet cooking method turns it into a heavenly tender bite. For this recipe, Ron smokes the shanks first, allowing them to take in all of that wonderful smoky flavor from the charcoal and the wood. Then he braises the shanks, breaking down the meat into an incredibly succulent, tender, and tasty meal.
Dalstrong creates best-in-class tools at unrivaled price points. Click here to learn more about Dalstrong Knives.
rly 2021 may be light on larger barbecue events, but we expect many to happen later in the year.—
April 24, 2021: BreakUp ShakeUp — Palmer, Alaska
The first BBQ comp of the Alaska season will take place on April 24, 2021. This one-day event is perfect for beginners and pros alike. Happening in historic downtown Palmer, Alaska, at two local breweries, this event is a must attend for foodies and pit masters! Harry Soo of Slap Yo Daddy BBQ and Donna Fong of Butcher's Daughter will be joining in the fun this year. MORE INFO HERE.
May 7-8, 2021: The BBQ Fest on the Neuse — Kinston, North Carolina
The 39th annual BBQ Festival on the Neuse kicks off soon in Kinston, NC. The 2020 version of the event was canceled due to COVID-19, but it’s back in 2021 with a slightly different setup for safely. The festival will include barbecue, food competitions, shopping, arts and crafts, wine garden, children’s activities, and more. Expect a good time for families and BBQ enthusiasts. MORE INFO HERE.
May 12-15, 2021: Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest — Memphis, Tennessee
This four-day competition will be held in Tom Lee Park on the banks of the Mississippi River in downtown Memphis. Teams travel from around the world to compete for the title of World Champion and a share of the more than $115,000 in prize money. Teams will compete in the championship pork categories of Ribs, Shoulder, and Whole Hog, as well as the ancillary competitions of Hot Wings, Sauce, and “Anything But Pork.” MORE INFO HERE.
June 4-5, 2021: Hogs For the Cause — New Orleans, Louisiana
The bug Hogs For the Cause barbecue competition and festival is back in 2021 with a few changes. Proceeds still go to fight pediatric brain cancer, but this year's event will be held at a 15-acre site in Belle Chasse on the east side of the city. Organizers are limiting ticket sales to only 25% of the venue's capacity, and they will make the event cashless. MORE INFO HERE.
July 9-11, 2021: Windy City Smokeout BBQ & Country Music Festival — Chicago, Illinois
Get ready for beer, BBQ, and country tunes, because the Windy City Smokeout BBQ & Country Music Festival is returning to Chicago. The Windy City Smokeout is one of the largest barbecue festivals in the U.S. and typically features the world’s best pitmasters and more than 15 musical acts. Read our to learn about the experience. MORE INFO HERE.
NOTE: Due to the pandemic, it’s possible these dates and details might change. For the latest details, please check out our full events calendar.
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