5 questions with just-reopened Wilber’s BBQ in NC

5 Questions with Just-Reopened Wilber's BBQ in North Carolina

Last week, historic Wilber’s BBQ in Goldsboro, North Carolina opened its doors again after closing last year. Wilber’s BBQ originally opened in 1962, but the restaurant fell on hard times in March 2019 and went into bankruptcy. Shortly after this, Willis Underwood and a few other barbecue lovers from Goldsboro created Goldpit Partners in order to take over the institution to help bring it back.

After small renovations and trying to make adjustments to deal with the new reality of coronavirus, the joint has been restored. It’s now serving up a limited menu that includes whole hog, BBQ chicken, coleslaw, hushpuppies, and potato salad, all via curbside pickup. The return of Wilber’s BBQ, even in the age of COVID-19, is a promising sign for whole hog barbecue and Eastern North Carolina barbecue. 

Willis Underwood, left, joined with other local barbecue lovers to buy Wilber's from Wilberdean Shirley, right. (Photos by Ryan Bevell)

Underwood, one of the new owners, was born and raised in Goldsboro and has worked at restaurants in his life, but he had never owned one until Wilber’s. We spoke to Underwood this week to ask a few questions about saving Wilber’s and more.

The Smoke Sheet: Why did you want to bring Wilber’s back?
Willis Underwood: Some like-minded folks in Goldsboro got together, and [we believed] Wilber's is part of the tapestry of barbecue. [We appreciate] Eastern North Carolina-style whole hog that is cooked over oak wood, and we didn’t want it to disappear. Whole hog is disappearing and whether it’s Allen & Son up in Chapel Hill or Bill’s over in Wilson, too many are going to the wayside. With Wilber’s storied history, we just wanted to see if we could bring that back, that part of North Carolina history.

Wilbers BBQ is famous for its chopped whole hog.

TSS: How was your first week back and what has the general response been?
WU: It’s been very humbling. The folks have come out in droves, and we’ve given them a very good product. I do think the response has been overall positive. We have had a couple of hiccups. We are doing pre-paid curbside [and] we have a makeshift takeout line where a person takes your order, and then you pick it up at the end of the line. They’ve been very patient. It’s been taking a little bit of time to get our products out to the folks, but each day has gotten better.

TSS: What adjustments did you have to make for COVID-19 and how are you thinking about safety long term?
WU: We’ve taken the NC Promise as far as COVID-19 goes with all of our servers and all of our kitchen folks. We are not letting anyone into the house at this time. We want everyone to feel safe, but whatever protocol is enforced when we do open up, then we will certainly adhere to that. The safety of the customer is number one, as well as our staff. … We have procedures in place, taking temperatures, everyone’s masked, we’re hand-washing as always. I’ve seen restaurants as a whole doing that, and we will continue to do so. I want everyone to feel safe and hopefully soon we can get everyone back in at a proper 50% or whatever the governor decides at that time, and we will adhere to those rules.

Wilber's BBQ has a small team running its famous pits around the clock to make whole hog.

TSS: How do you feel about NC BBQ today and the coming years?
WU: I feel like BBQ today in North Carolina is done the right way, whole hog and over oak wood. East versus West [North Carolina] is a whole other game there. But I feel positive about keeping our tradition alive. As I said earlier, that’s one of the reasons that brought us all together [to save Wilber’s], because it’s a heritage, not only of our state but it goes back 200 years. It’s one of the most labor intensive and hardest ways to produce barbecue, but to us it’s the best way and the only way to get that flavor. … I think there’s a demand for barbecue done the right way, and I think people will go out of their way to get a superior product. That’s what we offer at Wilber’s. I feel very positive about the future of at least Wilber's and Eastern-style barbecue.

TSS: What is your favorite North Carolina barbecue joint that isn’t Wilber’s?
WU: I might get in trouble with this one, but I would say Morris Barbeque over in Hookerton. He’s only open on Saturdays. He just does a really good product, and he’s got it going on. [Another favorite] is Skylight Inn over in Ayden. It might even be a toss-up between Morris and Skylight.

The whole hog sandwich is the top item at Wilber's.

Wilber’s BBQ is currently open Wednesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. People can call ahead at (919) 778-5218 to place an order or order upon arrival from a parking attendant, but calling ahead is strongly advised.

Thanks to Willis Underwood for chatting this week and best of luck to the team at the new Wilber’s.

Sean Ludwig (NYC BBQ)
Co-Founder, The Smoke Sheet

Calling all competition BBQ teams! Join in the American Royal World Series of Barbecue, the world's largest barbecue competition, September 17-20 at Kansas Speedway. Team registration is now open, so don't delay. Sign up today to compete!

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