BBQ in the Age of Coronavirus
During the past week, the world as we know it changed. It continues to change so fast that we can barely keep up and it’s gotten to the point that we honestly don’t know where things will be in another week. The novel coronavirus (COVID-19) has brought the country and nearly every type of business to its knees, and people are worried about their health and economic well being.
Restaurants, caterers, and event businesses especially have been hurt by new restrictions, shutdowns, and perhaps more than anything, fear. Our friends in the barbecue industry have told us that the next few weeks (maybe months) will be incredibly painful for restaurants, and there’s a good chance a restaurant you know and love will go out of business altogether.
The coronavirus crisis has pushed many restaurants to only serve takeout or delivery, including Porky Butts BBQ in Omaha. (Photo by Ryan Cooper)
Right now is the time to support your local joints, who were already working on thin margins before the coronavirus crisis. If you can order takeout or delivery from them, buy merchandise, or purchase gift cards to use later, there’s never been a better time than today.
It’s hard to capture what’s happening across the nation right now, but we’ll do our best. First, let’s discuss what is happening with BBQ restaurants and second, we’ll briefly dive into the landscape of BBQ events.
The Impact on BBQ Restaurants
There’s no way around it: restaurants in America are scared and worried this crisis could be the end of the line. With most major metropolitan areas across the U.S. restricting dine-in service and only allowing joints to do takeout and/or delivery, lots of owners have had to cut staff and are no longer sure they can make their business models work.
All Plowboys BBQ locations in Kansas City were forced to close their in-person dining operations this week, offering carry out and delivery only. (Photo by Todd Johns)
Barbecue joints are effectively in the same boat as the rest of America’s restaurants, with many of the best-known joints in Texas, Missouri, North Carolina, Tennessee, New York, and California all closing their dining rooms. Many owners don’t know if they can make the economics of takeout and delivery only work if this crisis does not subside in short order.
Perhaps the best way this crisis can be explained is through this observation from the owners of famed Memphis joint Charlie Vergos Rendezvous: “As we sit here and notify everyone that our dining room has temporarily closed, we reflect on the fact this is the first time in our history (besides the fire in the 70s) that we have ever closed our dining room. Through curfews in the 60s, through economic downturns, through wind storms and ice storms, we could always remain open. This is different, but hopefully just a blip on the radar one day to the restaurant, to all of our Rendezvous family, and to those in the restaurant business.”
Many joints that already offered takeout and/or delivery were somewhat ready for this transition. Catherine Stiles of Stiles Switch BBQ and The Switch told us last week that some things were shutting down in Austin, but she was optimistic about Austin’s ability to come together.
“Austin is a unique city in that we are very driven by supporting local businesses,” Catherine Stiles said. “Our motto is to support local and try to come together as a community to help each other out. … We’re all rallying and letting people know we’re open and offering to-go, delivery, and anything that we can provide our customers to make it an easy experience.”
Catherine Stiles of Stiles Switch in Austin told us she is trying to weather this period of uncertainty. (Photo by Stiles Switch BBQ)
Stiles, like many other owners, said she is experimenting with new takeout packages, including the Staycation package, which includes brisket, pork ribs, and sausage, sides, and fixins.
Some joints have decided to cease all operations temporarily. Snow’s BBQ of Lexington, Texas — one of the top barbecue joints in the world — decided to close for at least the next two weekends. It made the call in order to protect the health and safety of its workers, especially 84-year-old pitmaster Tootsie Tomanetz.
“99% of our customers are from out of town and out of state,” Snow’s BBQ wrote on Facebook. “Our community and our employees, including our 84 year old Ms. Tootsie, are our priority at this time. We are very sorry for any inconvenience and hope you all understand. Let’s all work together to put an end to this crazy virus!”
Kansas City’s Tyler Harp of Harp Barbecue made the call last weekend to not serve food at all, but he’s thinking about the potential of selling large takeout orders.
“Being high volume in a small setting, we believe it is in the best interest of everyone to not bring hundreds of people into this small establishment,” Harp wrote on Facebook. “We are responsible for a small group of people, not everyone else. What other restaurants and bars are doing is their responsibility. We will look into selling whole briskets, slabs and pork butts in the coming days.”
Tyler Harp of Harp Barbecue of Kansas City canceled all service last weekend in light of coronavirus concerns. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)
If restaurants are going to make it through this, the growing consensus is that federal and state governments need to intervene — and soon. Restauranter David Chang wrote on Twitter that people need to act now to save the independent restaurant industry.
“If you work in restaurants or care at all about the hard working individuals in the industry: please call your Representative and your Senators,” he wrote. You can be connected to the capitol switchboard at 202-224-3121. Demand that we are part of the federal stimulus plan.”
In the meantime, please go support your favorite local barbecue joints and restaurants if you want them to make it through this crisis. They need your help and their food is (probably) better than your stock of nonperishables. Our friend Kevin Kelley of Kevin’s BBQ Joints has compiled a nationwide list of barbecue joints that are open for business during this crazy time.
Global BBQ Events Canceled or Postponed
When it comes to barbecue events around the country and around the world, nearly everything for the next two months has been wiped from the calendar. It started with the 34th annual South by Southwest conference canceling its huge event in Austin in March and then Hogs for the Cause in New Orleans canceled its huge bash in late March. Then, in a matter of days, almost every other barbecue and food event through the end of April was canceled or postponed.
“I thought canceling [South by Southwest] was the right call,” Catherine Stiles told us. “If you’ve never attended South by, it is a true world event with people from all corners attending. It does an amazing thing for the Austin economy, but it was the right call."
The much-anticipated Houston BBQ Festival in April was canceled due to coronavirus concerns. (Photo by Ryan Cooper)
Large barbecue events that have confirmed to be canceled or postponed include:
Meatstock in Melbourne, Australia - Canceled
Hogs for the Cause in New Orleans, Louisiana - Postponed
NBBQA Annual Conference in Louisville, Kentucky - Postponed
Houston BBQ Festival in Humble, Texas - Canceled
Jeff Michner BBQ Benefit in Brooklyn, New York - Postponed
and many more
At this point, there’s a good chance we will see events happening in May canceled or postponed as well. Memphis in May, for example, has publicly set expectations concerning coronavirus. “As the situation develops, should it be determined that our events in May pose a risk to public safety, and if directed by a government authority or public health authority to cancel them, we will promptly do so,” the event organizer wrote.
In the competition barbecue world, not many events have been canceled or postponed just yet, but the Kansas City Barbeque Society has provided guidance on what should be expected during the next few months.
“We are certainly facing some unprecedented times,” the organization wrote. “As we have previously stated, Contest Organizers are the entities responsible for their contests. KCBS will work with them to support them in their decisions to postpone or to proceed with their events, depending on when they are scheduled and based upon their direction from local health authorities in their area.”
Final Thoughts
Wash your hands. Do whatever you can to ride this out. Support your local joints.
Sean Ludwig (NYC BBQ) & Ryan Cooper (BBQ Tourist)
Co-Founders, The Smoke Sheet
Here are the top recent barbecue news stories from around the country:
The COVID-19 pandemic dominated news headlines this week and significantly impacted barbecue restaurants nationwide.
The coronavirus crisis has greatly impacted the barbecue and restaurant industry in the past week. Here are some of the latest updates:
Chicago chef Phillip Foss described some ways in which the coronavirus might significantly impact the restaurant industry and offered some strategies for dealing with these issues. He suggests restaurants offer a delivery service, since few people will be dining in and also making sure sick employees stay home rather than working through illness.
In an article for FSR Magazine, Liz Moskow advocated for a “complete shut down” of in-house dining operations in favor of takeout and delivery only, writing that those who do this quickly and successfully will emerge as “responsible leaders in hospitality who cater to the real needs of their customers.”
In Restaurant Business, Jonathan Maze suggests restaurant operators “be scrappy” to survive in the face of declining sales and revenue.
John T. Edge notes in his article for Garden & Gun that while the situation brought on by the coronavirus pandemic is changing quickly, “change is happening so slow” for restaurants in the South.
Eater recently published a guide to how to safely and responsibly patronize restaurants for diners during the pandemic. According to the article, “the broadly accepted consensus is that it’s best to refrain from dining at restaurants” and instead rely on takeout and delivery services.
The Houston Chronicle’s Greg Morago wrote about how Houston-area restaurants are adapting to Harris County’s 15-day mandate limiting restaurants to takeout and delivery only. He notes “barbecue restaurants are getting creative” since sliced meats, such as brisket don’t travel well.
Houston’s Southern Smoke Foundation is preparing to raise money for the needs of hospitality industry professionals and restaurant owners impacted by the pandemic.
After seeing a nationwide shortage at retail stores due to the coronavirus, Big Bubba's Bad to the Bone BBQ in Paso Robles decided to offer a free roll of toilet paper with a purchase from their menu.
In news unrelated to the coronavirus pandemic, last week Southern Living announced the winners of the readers’ choice lists of best barbecue joints in the South. As he does every year, editor Robert Moss was forced to respond to criticism and remind folks that these are readers’ picks.
Speaking of Moss, he also wrote the story of South Carolina’s iconic barbecue side dish, hash and rice. He notes that while methods and ingredients for the hearty stew have changed over the years “South Carolinians still love eating it alongside a big plate of barbecue.”
Garden & Gun surveyed twenty culinary experts, including pitmasters such as Sam Jones, Rodney Scott, Elliott Moss, and Matthew Register, about their favorite widely-available hot sauces.
Here are BBQ shows, podcasts, or books you should check out this week:
The Smoke Shop’s Andy Husbands joins The BBQ Central Show to discuss his new book.
Watch: Meathead from AmazingRibs.com and The Smoke Shop’s Andy Husbands — The BBQ Central Show
Meathead from AmazingRibs.com joins host Greg Rempe to talk about the internet and the Weber SmokeFire, why he LOVES the Hasty Bake cooker and St. Patty's Day. They also answer a few social media questions as well. In the 2nd hour, Greg is joined by Andy Husbands, owner of "The Smoke Shop" and author of some great BBQ cookbooks. They talk about his new book getting ready to hit the shelves, discuss the BBQ restaurant business, and chat about his competition schedule for 2020 (if there is one). Watch here.
Listen: Supporting BBQ Through Tough Times — Tales from the Pits
The world, and more recently the United States, has begun to deal with the effects of novel coronavirus (COVID-19). As large events cancel, corporations and school districts suspend operations, and people begin to stay home in large numbers, the inevitable decline in sales that small businesses will experience is frightening for many Americans. Barbecue restaurants operate on tight budgets and slim profit margins and have begun to prepare for a slowdown in business as best they can. In addition to those concerns, these dedicated hospitality professionals feel an overwhelming sense of obligation to keep their families, staff, and customers safe as they try to maintain a successful business. In this episode, hosts Bryan and Andrew provide information to barbecue consumers and industry professionals based on their experiences and discussions with the business owners themselves. They provide tips for consumers on how they can do their part to not only support small businesses but to do so as safely and responsibly as possible along with information that can aid restaurant owners and staff in giving consumers more peace of mind during these trying times. Listen to the episode here.
Read: Faith, Family & the Feast: Recipes to Feed Your Crew from the Grill, Garden, and Iron Skillet — by Kent Rollins and Shannon Rollins
Real-life cowboy Kent Rollins captivates fans with his maverick cooking, country humor, and wisdom. In their heartfelt new book, Kent and Shannon Rollins invite everyone to sit a while at their table. Honey-Chipotle Chicken is hot off the grill. There’s Cracklin’ Cornbread in the skillet and Cool Cucumber Dill Salad from the garden. Save room for the Homemade Cherry Almond Ice Cream. The food is lively, but the recipes are relaxed. Kent’s inspirational sayings, tales of the range, and cowboy poetry combined with Shannon’s stunning photos and quotes from scripture capture faith, hope, and appreciation of life’s blessings. Buy it here.
In light of the constantly changing coronavirus crisis, we will be leaving this section blank for the next few weeks. Many events you know and love are canceled or postponed and sadly more are to come. We’ll be updating our events section on our website with the most up-to-date information as we have it.
See the full Smoke Sheet events calendar online here.
This creamy and tangy coleslaw from Susie Bulloch makes the perfect barbecue side dish.
Best Homemade Coleslaw by Hey Grill Hey
For this week’s Recipe of the Week, we chose a homemade recipe for coleslaw from Susie Bulloch of Hey Grill Hey. It’s crunchy and refreshing with a light, tangy dressing. This coleslaw is a must-have with fried chicken, BBQ sandwiches, and so much more. It’s a perfect comfort food in trying times. View the recipe here.
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