The best bites from Texas Monthly BBQ Fest 2019 (plus top news & events)
This past weekend, I attended the tenth annual Texas Monthly BBQ Fest in Austin, which brought together 30 of the top barbecue joints from across the great state of Texas. Once again, I found myself surrounded by pitmasters and fellow barbecue enthusiasts, sampling delicious smoked meats and enjoying comradery. It was an amazing weekend with gorgeous weather that I will not soon forget.
The lines were long to enjoy the food and meet Tootsie from Snow’s BBQ. (Photo by Daniel Garcia)
The festivities began on Saturday with the ‘Cue Course, a workshop taught by members of the Texas A&M Animal Sciences Department and hosted by Stiles Switch BBQ & Brew. I attended the event last year and was short on time, so I passed on the event this time around but from all reports it was just as great as last year.
Later on in the evening, Franklin Barbecue was the site of the Franklin and Friends event, which included brisket from Franklin, smoked beef cheek with cilantro salsa from Leroy and Lewis Barbecue in Austin, a Cubano sandwich from Brotherton’s Black Iron BBQ in Pflugerville, and pork ribs from Charlie’s Barbecue in Beaumont. However, three dishes from Convenience West in Marfa stole the show for me on Saturday evening: brisket on a bun with pickled onions, cabrito tacos with house chamoy sauce on a brisket fat tortilla, and perhaps most surprisingly, the fire roasted carrot dip served with toasted pepitas, cilantro, and Fritos.
The pork belly served on vermicelli, “mac-n-sleeze” sausage, and peanut brittle from Blood Bros. BBQ were a festival favorite. (Photo by Daniel Garcia)
The main event of the weekend took place on Sunday at the Long Center for the Performing Arts. When I wrote about the event last year, I freely admit I was almost overwhelmed by the experience, with so many different top barbecue joints on hand and incredible pitmasters at every turn. This year, I decided to focus my attention on a few off-the-beaten-path spots that I have not yet been to, as well as some favorites I knew would have incredible food.
My first stop was at Wolfforth’s Evie Mae’s Pit Barbeque, who served delicious sliced ribeye. Next, I joined Texas Monthly’s Daniel Vaughn and the Houston Chronicle’s J.C. Reid in line at Blood Bros. BBQ for their fantastic dish that included a pork belly burnt end served on rice vermicelli, “mac-n-sleeze” sausage, and peanut brittle. Right next to Blood Bros. was Austin favorite Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ, which was my favorite bite at last year’s festival. I loved their Marsala glazed beef rib with smoked mashed potatoes served at this year’s event.
The Marsala glazed beef rib with smoked mashed potatoes from Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ was a standout dish at the festival. (Photo by Daniel Garcia)
Pecos joint Pody’s BBQ served brisket smoked two ways — one using pecan and the other with mesquite. Both were delicious and there was a subtle difference in flavor between the two, though I don’t think I would’ve ever correctly guessed which was which. I joined Tyler Harp of Kansas City’s Harp Barbecue at the booth for the original Longview location of Bodacious Bar-B-Que for bites of sausage and pork belly burnt ends (which were truly mind-blowing). Tyler and his crew finished up their Saturday shift and drove through the night in order to attend the festival. My last bite of the day was at San Marcos standout Hays County Bar-B-Que, where I devoured a thick pork chop and brisket.
I polled several friends to see what their favorite bites from the festival were and almost everyone mentioned the dishes from Blood Bros. BBQ and Valentina’s. When I asked Dallas-based photographer and writer Kelly Yandell what stood out to her, she said: “Barbecue on the Brazos served a simple slice of great brisket on a little bed of slaw and it was terrific. I loved that Evie Mae’s served a slice of ribeye. It was just an incredible slice of really lovely beef, well flavored and cooked to perfection. Terry Black’s chili was also a terrific little bite. On a more complex note, Micklethwait Craft Meats served a barbacoa tamale that was stunning.” (You can read her perspective on the weekend on her blog, The Meaning of Pie.)
Killens Barbecue served a variety of proteins, including pork belly, tri tip, and even fried chicken. (Photo by Daniel Garcia)
Abe Delgado of the I Crush BBQ Show podcast said, “Everything was great but some of my favorites were Killens Barbecue’s pork belly burnt ends with a delicious glaze, the Terry Blacks BBQ badass chili, and the Roegel’s Barbecue Co. whole hog with the crunchy skin and fresh slaw.
John Kulow, also known as ATX Food Guy, said, “Guess Family Barbecue out of Waco were smoking chicken wings that had great flavor and Tejas Chocolate + Barbecue out of Tomball were doing quail, which was also really great. Lastly, kind of the oddball of the show that stood out was 2M Smokehouse with their Frito pie.”
I was fortunate enough to be able to join the pitmasters and crew for the final picture of the festival. (Photo by Misty Roegels)
Many people commented that this year’s event seemed less overcrowded and more relaxed and enjoyable than last year and I couldn't agree more. One thing that didn’t change was the amazing barbecue community.
Yandell said her favorite thing about attending the event is “seeing all of the pitmasters and their teams working together and helping each other...hearing people, theoretical competitors, pointing out which of their friends had made something spectacular for the day…slicing and plating for the masses while sending a spare hand to stand in line and grab a taste from another spot. John Brotherton was helping the Roegels crew, while asking someone to run to grab a taste of Killen’s fried chicken, for example. That played out over and over again.”
I can’t wait to see what Texas Monthly BBQ Fest has in store next year, and I hope to see you all there!
Special thanks to Austin-based photographer Daniel Garcia for joining me this weekend to shoot delicious food and amazing people.
Ryan Cooper (BBQ Tourist)
Co-Founder, The Smoke Sheet
Here are the top recent barbecue news stories from around the country:
Acclaimed San Antonio joint The Granary will close November 30. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)
The Granary — one of Texas Monthly’s Top 50 BBQ joints — will be closing its doors for good at the end of the month after not attracting enough customers with its innovative take on barbecue. The restaurant was known for walking the line between fine cuisine and Texas barbecue, with items like smoked brisket ramen, beef clod, and burnt end bolognese. Read more about .
The Smoke Sheet’s Sean Ludwig reviewed Subway’s much-talked about brisket sandwich for NYC BBQ and as you might guess, the results weren’t great. Subway has been using the mysterious “Pitmaster Ramone” as a mascot of sorts for the sandwich but wouldn’t reveal his identity, so Texas Monthly’s Daniel Vaughn went on a search to find him.
Speaking of fast food barbecue, Daniel Vaughn also recently made the case that what really makes fast food barbecue sandwiches is the sauce. He then tried 16 varieties of chain BBQ sauce to see which big fast food chain offers the best flavors to pair with fries and chicken nuggets.
Denver’s 303 Magazine has profiled James Beard Award-winning food historian Adrian Miller, who has chronicled histories of black food traditions and stories in the U.S. His next book Black Smoke will “examine black influence on American barbecue with a planned release in spring 2021.”
The Houston Chronicle’s J.C. Reid writes that Houston’s barbecue scene has captured the national food spotlight with recent articles by GQ, Smithsonian Magazine, and more showing off its diverse and delicious cuisine.
Australia’s Red Gum BBQ has brought Southern-style barbecue Down Under, writes Southern Living’s Robert Moss. The Red Hill-based joint, an hour south of Melbourne, has had challenges but they have also enjoyed introducing Aussies to staples like brisket, ribs, and banana cream pudding.
The Charlotte Observer’s Michel'le Jackson interviewed Matt Barry, executive chef and pitmaster at Midwood Smokehouse in Charlotte. She asked him about what barbecue means for the South, what makes a great pitmaster, and more.
4 Rivers Smokehouse, one of the top barbecue joints in Orlando, has added vegan meat to its menu with Beyond Burnt Ends, which will be served up at Central Florida locations starting this week. "As a brand, we're constantly evolving and listening to consumers and right now there is definitely a demand for plant-based BBQ," 4R Restaurant Group founder and CEO John Rivers said.
Alongside Operation BBQ Relief, actor Matthew McConaughey helped make 800 turkey dinners for more than 20 Los Angeles-area firehouses Friday, in response to terrible wildfires that have affected California as of late. He also helped cook and package another 800 turkey meals for homeless shelters. "Huge thank you to Operation BBQ Relief and #matthewmcconaughey for donating trays of delicious BBQ to our crews around the city,” the Los Angeles Fire Department said on Instagram.
Our friends at the Barbecue Bros recently reviewed Charlotte’s Farmhouse BBQ food truck and catering operation. They write that the team’s “approach to barbecue helps them stand out among other barbecue food truck and catering options and is to be applauded.”
Finally, some sad news this week: Melvin Rogers Jr., the owner of Melvin’s Place of BBQ in Huntsville, Alabama, passed away last week at the age of 72. Melvin’s Place of BBQ has attracted attention in Alabama over the years, but it’s status is now unclear after Rogers’ death.
Here are BBQ shows, podcasts, or books you should check out this week:
There is a ton of amazing brisket to be had in Austin, Texas.
Watch: The Best Barbecue in Austin - Best of the Best
Hosts Sydney Kramer and Joe Avella from Insider visit some of the hottest barbecue joints in Austin in this episode of Best of the Best. They tackle the monster beef rib at Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor, then sample platters of meats and sides at Micklethwait Craft Meats. They also go to Franklin Barbecue to try the world famous brisket. Finally, they end up at Leroy and Lewis to try smoked beef cheek and kimchi. Watch here.
Listen: Sausage 101 - Tales from the Pits
It has taken Bryan and Andrew from Tales from the Pits three years of making sausage before they felt like they could truly speak on the art of craft sausage. A number of people requested this episode, so here it is — Tales From the Pits Sausage 101. This is a crash course in the basics of making fresh cooked sausage; from what equipment to buy to the best tips they have learned. Finally they provide a base recipe for you to enhance. Listen to the episode here.
Read: Red Meat Republic: A Hoof-to-Table History of How Beef Changed America - by Joshua Specht
Beef production in the United States had gone from small-scale, localized operations to a highly centralized industry spanning the country, with cattle bred on ranches in the rural West, slaughtered in Chicago, and consumed in the nation's rapidly growing cities. Red Meat Republic tells the remarkable story of the violent conflict over who would reap the benefits of this new industry and who would bear its heavy costs. Specht brings to life a turbulent era marked by Indian wars, Chicago labor unrest, and food riots in the streets of New York. He shows how the enduring success of the cattle-beef complex — centralized, low cost, and meatpacker dominated — was a consequence of the meatpackers' ability to make their interests overlap with those of a hungry public, while the interests of struggling ranchers, desperate workers, and bankrupt butchers took a backseat. Buy it here.
The Sam Jones Barn Party takes place Thursday at Fox Bros. Bar-B-Q in Atlanta, Georgia.
November 7: Sam Jones Barn Party — Atlanta, Georgia
Fox Bros. Bar-B-Q is thrilled to celebrate friend and Pitmaster Sam Jones with a special collaborative dinner highlighting his family’s signature recipes. The Fox Bros. team will transform their Ottley Drive Commissary into Jones’ beloved backyard barn where guests will enjoy an American Spirit Works specialty-cocktail, appetizers, a family-style meal prepared by Jones and Fox Bros., as well as beer from Scofflaw Brewing Co. and wine. More info here.
November 9: Gridiron Grill-Off — Pompano Beach, Florida
The Gridiron Grill-Off Food, Wine & Music Festival is one of the top food events in South Florida. It will feature a grilling competition with Miami Dolphin legends and top South Florida restaurants. Fans spend the afternoon tasting gourmet grilled bites and sipping on wines and spirits. There will also be a Florida BBQ Association-approved barbecue competition and a cornhole tournament. More info here.
November 10: Meat Fight — Dallas, Texas
Meat Fight is a yearly BBQ competition with chefs competing against each other for titles including best brisket, best sausage and more. 16 fancy DFW chefs from restaurants including Lucia, Petra and the Beast, Fauna, Jose, Salaryman, and more will be there duking it out. Attendees will be able to sample it all, plus side items, whiskey samples, beer, and more. The best part: This “funlanthropy” event benefits people living with Multiple Sclerosis. More info here.
November 13: No Kid Hungry Dinner — Houston, Texas
Some of Houston’s top pitmasters will soon get together for the No Kid Hungry Dinner at Truth BBQ. Leonard Botello IV, pitmaster and owner of Truth BBQ, will host the multi-course dinner and will be joined by Bobby Matos (State of Grace, La Lucha), Erin Smith and Patrick Feges (Feges BBQ), Nick Wong (UB Preserv), and Rebecca Masson (Fluff Bake Bar). Vanessa Dworakowski of La Lucha will mix cocktails. The dinner benefits No Kid Hungry, which works to end childhood hunger across the country. More info here.
November 17: 3rd Annual HOU-ATX BBQ Throwdown — Houston, Texas
The Houston Barbecue Festival and Saint Arnold Brewing Company announce the 3rd Annual HOU-ATX BBQ Throwdown featuring top barbecue restaurants from Houston and Austin competing to determine who reigns supreme when it comes to Texas barbecue. Ticket holders will sample each of the barbecue competition entries as well as enjoy Saint Arnold beer.
More info here.
November 23: GrillsGiving — San Antonio, Texas
GrillsGiving is a community-wide barbeque cook-off, music festival and fundraiser. BBQ teams and guests enjoy a festival-like atmosphere, kids’ activities and entertainment along the banks of the Mission Reach. More info here.
December 27-28: Arizona National BBQ Stampede — Phoenix, Arizona
The Arizona National BBQ Stampede is a special event brought to you by the Arizona National Livestock Show in collaboration with the Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS). Teams will be able to enter the competition to earn points at the first event of the KCBS competition season. More info here.
January 1: Fired Up Florida Kosher BBQ Battle — Boca Raton, Florida
The Jay Feder Jewelers Fired Up Kosher BBQ Battle and Festival will be held on January 1st, 2019 at the South County Regional Park in Boca Raton, Florida from 1:00-5:00 pm. The event will include a barbecue competition, food for sale, and family activities. Proceeds will help support Hadar High School for Girls. More info here.
See the full Smoke Sheet events calendar online here.
There’s nothing quite like freshly sliced brisket and burnt ends.
Smoked Barbecue Brisket with Burnt Ends by All Things BBQ
For this week’s Recipe of the Week, we chose this classic recipe for Smoked Barbecue Brisket with Burnt Ends from Chef Tom of All Things BBQ. Chef Tom smokes up barbecue brisket with burnt ends on a Yoder Smokers YS640 Pellet Grill. Tom uses this recipe to show how he’d make brisket for friends and family, not judges, and walks through the detailed process of making brisket. View the recipe here.
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