The surprising story behind Omaha’s best barbecue restaurant (plus top news & events)
This week’s guest introduction is by Omaha-based food blogger Dan Hoppen, who explores restaurants throughout Nebraska for his blog, Restaurant Hoppen with Dan. He is also active on Twitter at @DanHoppen. We look forward to presenting other great original articles in The Smoke Sheet and if you’d like to write for us, please shoot us a note.
Chip Holland found his love for barbecue at 1 o’clock in the morning near an abandoned baseball field as drug dealers and pimps chowed down on pork and brisket just steps away. As is the case with many pitmasters, there was nothing classical about his training.
That passion led him down a winding road to his current state, the owner of Tired Texan BBQ, Omaha’s top-rated barbecue restaurant.
And it all started with Ira.
“If it wasn’t for him, I might’ve still loved barbecue, but it wouldn’t have become a way of life,” Holland said.
Chip Holland, pitmaster and owner of Tired Texan BBQ in Omaha, Nebraska. (Photo by Dan Hoppen)
Ira Ellison, better known as “Tex”, was a television repairman in Birmingham, Alabama in the 1980s. But once his daily work was done, he transformed into one of the state’s premier barbecue cooks. He set up shop in an old concession stand near a weed-riddled Little League field. The picnic tables outside seated all kinds of clientele, from ex-cons to doctors just getting off their shift at the hospital.
Ira didn’t typically start cooking until 11 p.m., but fans flocked to this tiny shack, which Ira named the Tired Texan, because he offered something most of the pitmasters in pork-obsessed Alabama didn’t: brisket.
That was one of the reasons Holland came back time and time again, often despite his parents’ wishes. He pestered Ira to teach him his secrets and, though Ira gave him a hard time, he was happy to let Chip behind the counter.
And a young pitmaster was born.
The slow-smoked ribs at Tired Texan BBQ are delicious. (Photo by Dan Hoppen)
Holland spent many nights cooking with Ira, often until 12:30 or 1:00 in the morning. He learned how to test a brisket’s doneness by how much it wiggled. (Ira didn’t have thermometers.) Ira was patient with Holland, but he also wasn’t afraid to bark at the ornery high schooler when he needed to get in line.
Holland opened a barbecue joint in Tennessee after college, but a poor partnership led to its closing. He moved to Florida to be with his brother, then came to Omaha, where he met his wife, Christine. Throughout all his years, Holland cooked every weekend, making brisket, pork, and ribs in his backyard and sharing them with anyone who asked. When he and his wife soured on their jobs, they decided to enter the restaurant business once more. In 2017, Tired Texan BBQ opened its doors.
“We knew coming in here that it was going to be hard,” Holland said. “We also knew that once people tasted it, they wouldn’t want anything else. And Christine and I, we go for it. We’re either all in or all out.”
The brisket and ribs are worth trying at Tired Texan. (Photo by Bryan Hulsey)
The restaurant, named after Ira’s humble shack, introduced Omaha to a more nuanced take on barbecue. Because the meat smokes for up to 18 hours, the restaurant occasionally runs out of meat, a common occurrence at legitimate establishments. This was, however, a new concept to most Nebraskans, and they bristled at the concept that brisket couldn’t magically be conjured at the exact moment they wanted it.
But once they tasted the meat, the complaints melted away.
Holland has made a few tweaks here and there to his cooking process, but he’s mostly remained faithful to Ira’s techniques. Ira passed away in 1997, but his legacy lives on. And his family is so proud, they reached out to Holland and are planning to bring the entire family reunion to Omaha soon to see what Tired Texan BBQ has become.
“I was like, ‘Seriously?!’” Holland said. “Some of these grandkids, great grandkids, they never even knew the guy. The idea that they would come … they’re just so honored that it meant that much.”
Dan Hoppen
Blogger, Restaurant Hoppen with Dan
Here are the top recent barbecue news stories from around the country:
The famous gas station location of Joe’s in Kansas City is being renovated to help with long lines of barbecue fans. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)
The original gas station location of Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que is making some renovations to make the experience more pleasant for the long lines of barbecue fans who visit the restaurant each day.
Award-winning pitmaster Todd Michael Johns has opened a third Kansas City location of Plowboys Barbeque in Overland Park. According to the Shawnee Mission Post, the location “has an even better version of the layout and toolkit of its Blue Springs location, plus the fast-casual dining experience they offer downtown.”
During his visit to the Firebox barbecue festival organized by Southern Soul Barbeque in St. Simons Island, Georgia, barbecue historian Jim Auchmutey stopped by the Brunswick Stew historic marker at the I-95 and noticed that the sign no longer purports to be the spot where the unique barbecue dish was first invented.
Barbecue scholar Robert Moss explores why there are so many towns named Lexington with great barbecue for Southern Living.
St. Louis is getting a new barbecue restaurant on South Grand. Knockout BBQ will feature pulled pork, barbecue chicken, brisket, and pork steaks.
Inspired by the pastrami beef rib he saw Billy Durney prepare at Hometown Bar-B-Que in Brooklyn, Russell Roegels of Roegels Barbecue Co. has been working to perfect a pastrami reuben at his joint in Houston. He serves the sandwich twice a week, and Texas Monthly’s Daniel Vaughn says it’s one of the best barbecue sandwiches in Texas.
Speaking of Roegels Barbecue Co., the Houston Chronicle's J.C. Reid reports that it currently serving whole hog one weekend a month, showing how whole hog is beginning to get looks in beef-focused Texas. If whole hog takes off, Roegels may offer it more than once a month.
Brooklyn’s Hometown Bar-B-Que recently opened its first location outside of NYC in Miami, and it has garnered high praise from local barbecue fans. The Miami New Times and Miami Herald both showered praise on the joint, with the latter saying “the barbecue at Hometown is unlike anything else in town.”
Dallas recently lost a barbecue joint called Stiky Ribz, a spinoff of a well-regarded Forney BBQ concept of the same name, CultureMap Dallas reports. On the plus side, the original Forney BBQ location is about to upgrade from food trailer to brick-and-mortar restaurant.
Speaking of Dallas, beloved Austin joint Terry Black’s will soon open a location in the Deep Ellum neighborhood of Dallas. The restaurant is expected to open in mid-November.
Los Angeles barbecue joint Barrel & Ashes has closed its doors after a five year run on Ventura Boulevard. The barbecue scene in LA has become more competitive in recent years, with names like Slab BBQ, Bludso’s Bar & Que, Maple Block Meat Company, and Moo’s Craft Barbecue all attracting attention.
Here are BBQ shows, podcasts, or books you should check out this week:
Greg Rempe’s recent interviews with Malcom Reed and Angel Todd are worth a watch.
Watch: Interviews with Malcom Reed and Angel Todd - The BBQ Central Show
Greg Rempe of The BBQ Central Show recently caught up with Malcom Reed of How To BBQ Right, where the two talked about competition chicken, brown sugar chipotle short ribs, and how to buy a competition BBQ trailer. After Malcom, stick around for Rempe’s interview with 17-year-old SCA phenom Angel Todd. She won an SCA event earlier in the summer in Ohio and has qualified for the world championship this coming weekend in Fort Worth. Watch here.
Listen: NBBQA Conference Day 2 - Smoking Hot Confessions
In this episode of the Smoking Hot Confessions podcast, host Ben Arnot chats with attendees of the National BBQ and Grilling Association (NBBQA) conference. This episode includes a conversation with Sean and Ryan from The Smoke Sheet as well as interviews with YouTube BBQ legends, gadget guys, charcoal manufacturing environmental warriors, and a rub manufacturer from California who’s utterly obsessed with Tri-Tip. Listen to the episode here.
Read: Cook Like a Local: Flavors That Can Change How You Cook and See the World - by Chris Shepherd and Kaitlyn Goalen
Chris Shepherd, the James Beard Award-winning chef of Houston’s Underbelly Hospitality, is a cook who has trained in fine-dining restaurants and Houston’s Korean grocery stores, Vietnamese noodle shops, Indian kitchens, and Chinese mom-and-pops. His food, incorporating elements of all these cuisines, tells the story of the city, and country, in which he lives. An advocate, not an appropriator, he asks his diners to go and visit the restaurants that have inspired him. In Cook Like A Local, Shepherd writes about how he learned to connect and share and truly cross cultures with a sense of generosity and respect, and how we can all learn to make not just better cooking, but a better community, one meal at a time. Buy it here.
Celebrate the first anniversary of Brett’s Backyard Bar-B-Que in Rockdale, Texas this weekend.
October 20: Brett’s Backyard BBQ Ball - Rockdale, Texas
Join the crew at Brett’s Backyard BBQ for the first anniversary of the “BBQ Ball” with eight of the best pitmasters Texas, including those from Snow’s BBQ, Roegels Barbecue Co, Tejas Chocolate & Barbecue, and more. The ticket includes samples from each pitmaster, complimentary beer from Texas Beer Company, and live music. More info here.
October 20: Butcher’s Ball - Brenham, Texas
The Butcher's Ball brings together Texas' most talented chefs, butchers, ranchers, and advocates for a day of demonstrations, discussions, tastings, and competition at the beautiful Rockin' Star Ranch in Brenham, Texas. The event is an incredible celebration of food, drink, music, and education, meant to shine a light on our local culinary and creative communities, bring awareness to sustainable farming and ranching practices, raise funds for local charities, and make the connection between the producer and the consumer. More info here.
October 25-26: Jack Daniel’s 2019 World Championship Invitational - Lynchburg, Tennessee
For one weekend every year, the smallest town in whiskey becomes the biggest scene in barbecue. More than 60 championship teams from the U.S. and more than 20 international teams from around the world convene in Lynchburg to compete for the coveted title of The Jack Grand Champion. Also, Ryan from The Smoke Sheet will be there, so be sure to say hello. More info here.
October 26: The Barbecue Festival - Lexington, North Carolina
The 36th annual Barbecue Festival in Lexington, North Carolina will attract thousands of BBQ aficionados from around the country. The event features lots of great Lexington-style barbecue, but also includes a bike race, a car show, live music, BMX stunt shows, lumberjack competitions, and a festival finale with fireworks. Admission is free but plan to buy ‘cue on site. More info here.
October 27: Spring Valley Tailgate & BBQ Festival - Spring Valley, California
California’s Largest Annual Amateur Tailgate & BBQ Contest is the perfect way to learn how to take your backyard BBQ skills and test them out in a contest that helps raise money for local youth charities. Some of our top teams from this contest have gone on to compete at the highest level of Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS) Championship events and have even opened BBQ businesses of their own. More info here.
November 2-3: Texas Monthly BBQ Fest Weekend - Austin, Texas
The Texas Monthly BBQ Fest is one of the top annual barbecue festivals in Texas. The Top 50 BBQ Joints in Texas have all been invited, so come see who will be smoking at this weekend of ‘cue. Plus, check out the return of the popular Franklin & Friends event. More info here.
November 7: Sam Jones Barn Party - Atlanta, Georgia
Fox Bros. Bar-B-Q is thrilled to celebrate friend and Pitmaster Sam Jones with a special collaborative dinner highlighting his family’s signature recipes. The Fox Bros. team will transform their Ottley Drive Commissary into Jones’ beloved backyard barn where guests will enjoy an American Spirit Works specialty-cocktail, appetizers, a family-style meal prepared by Jones and Fox Bros., as well as beer from Scofflaw Brewing Co. and wine. More info here.
November 10: Meat Fight - Dallas, Texas
Meat Fight is a yearly BBQ competition with chefs competing against each other for titles including best brisket, best sausage and more. 16 fancy DFW chefs from restaurants including Lucia, Petra and the Beast, Fauna, Jose, Salaryman, and more will be there duking it out. Attendees will be able to sample it all, plus side items, whiskey samples, beer, and more. The best part: This “funlanthropy” event benefits people living with Multiple Sclerosis. More info here.
November 13: No Kid Hungry Dinner - Houston, Texas
Some of Houston’s top pitmasters will soon get together for the No Kid Hungry Dinner at Truth BBQ. Leonard Botello IV, pitmaster and owner of Truth BBQ, will host the multi-course dinner and will be joined by Bobby Matos (State of Grace, La Lucha), Erin Smith and Patrick Feges (Feges BBQ), Nick Wong (UB Preserv), and Rebecca Masson (Fluff Bake Bar). Vanessa Dworakowski of La Lucha will mix cocktails. The dinner benefits No Kid Hungry, which works to end childhood hunger across the country. More info here.
November 17: 3rd Annual HOU-ATX BBQ Throwdown - Houston, Texas
The Houston Barbecue Festival and Saint Arnold Brewing Company announce the 3rd Annual HOU-ATX BBQ Throwdown featuring top barbecue restaurants from Houston and Austin competing to determine who reigns supreme when it comes to Texas barbecue. Ticket holders will sample each of the barbecue competition entries as well as enjoy Saint Arnold beer.
More info here.
November 23: GrillsGiving - San Antonio, Texas
GrillsGiving is a community-wide barbeque cook-off, music festival and fundraiser. BBQ teams and guests enjoy a festival-like atmosphere, kids’ activities and entertainment along the banks of the Mission Reach. More info here.
December 27-28: Arizona National BBQ Stampede - Phoenix, Arizona
The Arizona National BBQ Stampede is a special event brought to you by the Arizona National Livestock Show in collaboration with the Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS). Teams will be able to enter the competition to earn points at the first event of the KCBS competition season. More info here.
January 1: Fired Up Florida Kosher BBQ Battle - Boca Raton, Florida
The Jay Feder Jewelers Fired Up Kosher BBQ Battle and Festival will be held on January 1st, 2019 at the South County Regional Park in Boca Raton, Florida from 1:00-5:00 pm. The event will include a barbecue competition, food for sale, and family activities. Proceeds will help support Hadar High School for Girls. More info here.
See the full Smoke Sheet events calendar online here.
Bacon-wrapped smoked sausage is the perfect dish for tailgating.
Bacon Wrapped Smoked Sausage by Malcom Reed
For this week’s Recipe of the Week, we chose to highlight this recipe for Bacon-Wrapped Smoked Sausage by Malcom Reed of the YouTube channel How to BBQ Right. You can use any store bought sausage you like to make this recipe. Wrap with thin pieces of bacon and cook low and slow with indirect heat on any grill or smoker. This recipe is the perfect dish for tailgating season. View the recipe here.
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