The 'Campaign for Real Barbecue' continues
The busy season of barbecue events is now in full swing, and we were in attendance at several in Kansas City and New York this past weekend. Ryan attended a gathering at Tin Kitchen in Weston in celebration of barbecue blogger Joe Mathieu’s completion of Joe’s BBQ Quest, in which he visited every barbecue restaurant in the Kansas City metro over the past two years. Joe ranked Tin Kitchen number one and presented pitmaster Sean O’Malley with a trophy in honor of having the best brisket in Kansas City.
Meanwhile, Sean visited Pig Beach NYC for a Crawfish Boil with Craig Verhage (aka The BBQ Ninja) from Ubon’s Barbeque of Yazoo, which attracted more than a thousand people to try crawfish and smoked alligator. This was only two weeks after Pig Beach hosted the packed Jeff Michner BBQ Benefit, showing the hunger for good barbecue and good causes in the Northeast.
We go to so many of these events because we deeply care about documenting and being a part of what’s happening in the barbecue community. Speaking of which, we were recently asked to join the list of prestigious names of scholars, authors, and historians from the barbecue world who are patrons of the Campaign for Real Barbecue. We happily added our names to the campaign.
Pitmaster Keith Allen (left) of the recently-closed Allen & Son Barbecue in Chapel Hill with Campaign for Real Barbecue founder John Shelton Reed.
The Campaign for Real Barbecue was founded in 2013 by John Shelton Reed, a retired professor of Sociology at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill (and author of the book Holy Smoke: the Big Book of North Carolina Barbecue) and Dan Levine, creator of the BBQJew.com website. Their goal is to honor and promote the Southern food tradition of barbecue cooked using wood and to identify and encourage those who still carry on the tradition. They also work to support burgeoning establishments who embrace an artisanal, craft approach to barbecue.
According to the campaign’s website:
Barbecue embodies history and tradition. Since its obscure beginnings, it has been cooked with heat and smoke from burning wood or wood coals. Wood smoke defines Real Barbecue. Without it, one has merely roast meat. … Real Barbecue is rooted in three things increasingly lacking in today’s world: taste, tradition and a sense of place. We think the world will be a better place with more Real Barbecue in it. We hope you agree.
Stack of wood outside Sweet Lew’s BBQ in Charlotte, North Carolina, one of the few remaining restaurants in the area cooking completely with wood.
We happen to fully agree with this sentiment. Furthermore, John and Dan asked us to take over reporting news about the campaign in the future. In their most recent newsletter (issue #14 from April 2019), John wrote that news from the barbecue world and the campaign would be reported in a more timely and efficient way through The Smoke Sheet newsletter and blog posts from our friends at the Barbecue Bros.
We were humbled to be asked to help carry the message to our readers and we will continue to spread the word. Look for more news from the Campaign for Real Barbecue in the future.
Ryan Cooper (BBQ Tourist) and Sean Ludwig (NYC BBQ)
Co-Founders, The Smoke Sheet
Here are the top recent barbecue news stories from around the country:
This barbecue platter from DAS BBQ in Atlanta has Georgia favorites like Brunswick stew and collard greens, as well as brisket and sausage more commonly found in Texas. (Photo by Ryan Cooper)
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution has released a slew of new barbecue articles showing off Atlanta’s rising reputation as a “serious barbecue town.” Some highlights include:
A look at 26 metro Atlanta pitmasters that are hot right now, including Bryan Furman of B’s Cracklin’ BBQ; Cody Taylor and Jiyeon Lee of Heirloom Market BBQ; and Jonathan and Justin Fox of Fox Bros. Bar-B-Q.
An essay on the “heart and soul” of Atlanta’s barbecue community.
A guide to taking a barbecue road trip through Georgia.
A list of recipes from Atlanta-area pitmasters that includes pozole, green beans and BBQ brisket chili.
Pearl’s BBQ, a well-liked Texas-style barbecue joint in Los Angeles, announced its closure on social media due to its partners splitting ways, according to Eater LA.
Mothership Meat Company, a new promising Texas-style barbecue joint with a sci-fi theme, has opened in Queens, New York. It’s from the same team behind the acclaimed John Brown Smokehouse, also in Queens.
Daniel Vaughn, who co-wrote the new book Whole Hog BBQ with Sam Jones, writes in Taste about the crazy difficulty of cooking whole hog barbecue at home.
Speaking of Sam Jones, he was recently detained by police in Florida but used the incident to find some humor at his restaurant with the issue of a “pardon.”
Popular Washington, D.C. barbecue joint Federalist Pig will open a much larger second location in the suburbs of D.C. that will let partner and pitmaster Rob Sonderman triple (at least) his barbecue production.
Relatively new Tucson barbecue joint Smokey Mo (no affiliation with the Texas barbecue chain) has been profiled by the Tucson Foodie for its Kansas City-style barbecue. Smoky Mo pitmaster and partner Ocie Davis says his 18-hour-smoked brisket is the number one item on the menu.
Forbes has profiled Seguin, Texas-based Davila's BBQ, which celebrates the culinary traditions of both Mexico and Texas, infusing brisket, ribs, and sausage with Mexican flavors and ingredients. Third generation pitmaster Adrian Davila leads the restaurant and uses recipes passed down by his family.
Daniel Vaughn of Texas Monthly writes he has hated grass-fed brisket for a long time but Ferris Wheelers Backyard & BBQ in Dallas might help change his mind with its product that “tasted like nothing less than fine Texas brisket.”
Minnesota may not be the first state you think of when you think barbecue, but a new-school barbecue scene is developing there, writes Food & Wine.
If you need some good barbecue sauce but are watching your calories, Women’s Health outlines the 10 best barbecue sauces according to nutritionists. A few of the top choices might surprise you.
A new list from KCUR outlines some of the best barbecue joints in Kansas City, with old and new favorites. (Personally, we’d add Jazzy B’s and Harp Barbecue if we were running the list.)
Here are BBQ shows, podcasts, or books you should check out this week:
Watch: The Pitmaster - Schedulefly
This short video provides a glimpse into the life of Elliot Moss, the pitmaster and owner of Buxton Hall Barbecue in Asheville, North Carolina. Moss talks about his family history with barbecue and how his father built pits as a welder. His family ate whole hog, rather than turkey during the holidays. He also laments the loss of the tradition of all-wood cooking and describes himself as more of an artist than a cook. Watch it here.
Listen: Talking Food Heritage, Culture, and History with Dr. Howard Conyers - The BBQ Beat
We featured the video for the first episode of Nourish in . This week, we are following up by highlighting the BBQ Beat podcast interview with the host of the PBS series, Dr. Howard Conyers, a pitmaster, Southern food and culture historian, and NASA rocket scientist. Conyers talks about growing up in South Carolina, what it means to be a pitmaster, and how he applies science to his understanding of food heritage. Listen to the episode here.
Read: Whole Hog BBQ: The Gospel of Carolina Barbecue with Recipes from Skylight Inn and Sam Jones BBQ - by Sam Jones and Daniel Vaughn
In Whole Hog BBQ, authors Sam Jones and Daniel Vaughn create the definitive guide to one of America’s most iconic barbecue traditions — Carolina-style chopped pork. The book recounts the history of the Skylight Inn and shares step-by-step instructions for cooking a whole hog at home — from constructing a pit from concrete blocks to instructions for building a burn barrel. It also features more than 20 family recipes for large-batch barbecue, sides, and desserts, including including cornbread, coleslaw, spare ribs, smoked turkey, country-style steak, the signature burger, and biscuit pudding. Order it here.
May 3-4: BBQ Fest On The Neuse - Kinston, North Carolina
The 38th annual BBQ Festival on the Neuse kicks off on Friday, May 3rd, in Kinston, North Carolina. More than 40,000 visitors are expected to attend the festival with over 100 teams cooking in the competition. The festival will include barbecue, food competitions, shopping, arts and crafts, wine garden, children’s activities and more. More info here.
May 4: Red Dirt BBQ Festival - Tyler, Texas
For five years, the Red Dirt BBQ & Music Festival has been one of the most unique food and music experiences in Texas. The sixth annual event returns to the brick streets of downtown Tyler, Texas. Tickets are sold out at present. More info here.
May 12: All-Star BBQ at L.A. Times FOOD BOWL: Night Market - Los Angeles, California
The All-Star BBQ at L.A. Times Food Bowl event has everything from backyard enthusiasts to sit-down restaurants. Join Adam Perry Lang and the team from L.A. Times Food as they showcase the best BBQ in L.A. featuring pitmasters Aaron Franklin from Texas, Pat Martin from Tennessee, Bill Durney from New York and Sam Jones from North Carolina. Local participating restaurants include Kra Z Kai’s, Slab BBQ, Moo's Craft Barbecue, Horn Barbecue, East LA Barbecue and Bludso’s. All food and drinks will be included in the price of admission. Please note this event is 21+. More info here.
May 15-18: Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest - Memphis, Tennessee
This huge, four-day competition is held in Tom Lee Park on the banks of the Mississippi River in downtown Memphis. Nearly 250 teams travel from around the world to compete for the title of World Champion and a share of the more than $115,000 in prize money. The Contest draws more than 75,000 attendees. More info here.
May 18: The Pints in the Park - Waco, Texas
The Pints in the Park happens along the riverfront at Waco's Brazos Park East and features an afternoon of 10 great Texas pitmasters (including big names like Evie Mae's Pit Barbecue and Bodacious Barbecue), craft breweries, backyard games, and live music from Austin’s Grammy-nominated bluegrass band Wood & Wire. More info here.
May 30-June 3: Atlanta Food & Wine Festival - Atlanta, Georgia
The Atlanta Food & Wine Festival is an entire weekend dedicated to Southern cuisine. From great down-home delicacies to the freshest fusion dishes, the most sought-after wines to hot new bar favorites, this festival aims to please even the most finicky foodie. Over the course of the weekend attendees have the chance to participate in exclusive wine and food tastings featuring more than 250 restaurants, artisans, chefs and producers. More than 90 classes are offered to educate and entertain guests as they explore regional flavors and traditions, including cooking classes. More info here.
June 8-9: Tony Stone BBQ Competition - Amsterdam, Netherlands
The eighth annual Tony Stone BBQ Competition takes place June 8-9 in Amsterdam. The competition was Europe’s first contest sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbeque Society and a popular event for Americans to attend. The event is free and open to the public and will include a BBQ market, demonstrations, and activities for children. Competitive events include KCBS barbecue competition, Kids Q competitions, Steak Cookoff Association contest, and Tailgating competition. More info here.
June 14-15: The Great Eldorado BBQ, Blues & Brews Festival - Reno, NV
Fire up the grills, tap the kegs, and crank up the tunes for Reno’s best summer kick-off party. Join the fun at the Great Eldorado BBQ, Brews and Blues Festival, June 14 and 15. The event is equal parts barbeque block party, microbrew tasting event with more than 50 microbrews from around the world and music festival with two stages featuring nonstop rock and blues. More info here.
June 14-16: Denver BBQ Fest - Denver, Colorado
Get ready to go hog wild this Father’s Day weekend at the second annual Denver BBQ Festival. They will be bringing back may of the best pitmasters to serve the Q that made them famous. Even better, they’ve added a few new faces and expanded the menu way beyond the basics. There will also be live music and activities for the whole family. More info here.
June 16: Birthright BBQ Fest - Dallas, Texas
Dallas Heritage Village and Four Corners Brewing Co. invite you to celebrate Father’s Day at a barbecue event like no other. Smell and taste barbecue cooking over an open pit by pitmasters and chefs such as Aaron Franklin of Franklin Barbecue, Todd David of Cattleack Barbecue, Evan Leroy of Leroy & Lewis, Erin Smith and Patrick Feges of Feges BBQ, Miguel and Modesty Vidal of Valentina’s Tex Mex, and special guest from North Carolina, Elliot Moss of Buxton Hall. Beer, barbecue and live music are all included in the price of admission. Tickets go on sale on May 1. More info here.
June 22-23: The Giant National Capital Barbecue Battle - Washington, D.C.
This June, historic Pennsylvania Avenue in Washington, D.C., will become the epicenter of barbecue perfection. The biggest part of the event is the Cooking Contest, which will feature big names like Myron Mixon, Tuffy Stone, and Moe Cason competing with teams from around the U.S. Also, lots of U.S. barbecue joints from will be there serving food and more than 30 bands will perform live on three stages. More info here.
Pecan Smoked Chicken Wings
For our Recipe of the Week, GQue BBQ’s Jason Ganahl is joined by Trace from Thunderbird Wings in Nashville, who demonstrates how to make his signature Pecan Smoked Chicken Wings. Trace prefers to use the full wing with both parts intact. He also insists on using pecan wood to get that beautiful smoky color into the wing. As they say at Thunderbird, “The Wood Makes ‘Em Good.” View the recipe here.
If you’re not already subscribed to The Smoke Sheet, sign up here. Want to be featured in or sponsor this newsletter? Email us now!