Kansas City barbecue’s past, present, and future
This weekend, I was fortunate enough to hit the road to Kansas City (before the highways were closed due to recent flooding on the Missouri River) for a weekend filled with barbecue. Little did I know, I would have the opportunity to experience the past, present, and future of Kansas City barbecue all in one weekend.
My first stop was at Summit Hickory Pit in Lee’s Summit, Missouri to meet up with BBQ Hall of Famer Ardie Davis (also known by his pseudonym Remus Powers) and his grandson Zach, James Beard Award-winning food writer Jill Silva, chef Vaughn Good of Kansas City’s Fox and Pearl, and 88-year-old barbecue pit builder Bill Chaney. We were there to celebrate Bill’s birthday at a restaurant that still uses one of the many brick pits he’s built over the years.
Pit builder Bill Chaney in front of the brick pit he built at Summit Hickory Pit in Lee’s Summit, Missouri.
After lunch, we were given a tour of the pit by owner and pitmaster Allen Birchfield. Bill described how the pit was constructed, and Allen explained how the pits take constant care and attention from an experienced pitmaster in order to prevent a potential grease fire. As more and more barbecue restaurants switch to the ease of gas cookers, barbecue cooked with real wood in brick pits is becoming increasingly rare.
Crowd preparing to hear the results of the Big 12 Big Q Competition in Kansas City.
After we wished Bill a happy birthday and said goodbye, Ardie, Zach, and I headed down to Kansas City’s Power and Light District for the Big 12 Big Q event, an invitational competition set against the backdrop of the Big 12 Championship basketball tournament. We were able to watch as 12 top competition barbecue teams — including local favorites such as Slap’s BBQ, The Slaughterhouse Five from Joe’s Kansas City, and Fergolicious BBQ — went head to head with teams such as BBQ Hall of Famer Johnny Trigg’s Smokin’ Triggers and Texas’ Boomerang BBQ. Shake N Bake BBQ won the Grand Champion title, while Dirt Road BBQ took home Reserve Champion. The event provided great exposure for competition barbecue amongst a huge crowd of basketball fans.
BBQ Hall of Famers Johnny Trigg and Ardie Davis at the Big 12 Big Q barbecue competition.
My final event of the weekend included attending a pop-up event by up-and-coming pitmaster Tyler Harp of Harp Barbecue announcing his new partnership with Crane Brewing Co. in Raytown, Missouri. What I witnessed was the arrival of true craft barbecue on the scene in Kansas City. Though he grew up in the barbecue world with a father who was a regular barbecue competitor, Harp has dedicated the last three years of his life to studying the art of craft barbecue. He’s made multiple excursions to Texas and Western Tennessee to hone his skills with fellow pitmasters. The results of his dedication could easily be seen (and tasted).
Three meat platter, sides, and tacos at Harp Barbecue at Crane Brewing Co. in Raytown, Missouri.
I arrived early to a crowded parking lot and a long line that got even longer by the start of the event. I ordered everything on the menu, including brisket, pulled pork, ribs, tacos, cheesy corn, and apple-jalapeno-cilantro slaw. The brisket was some of the best I’ve had in all of my travels with perfect moist texture and a balanced salt-and-pepper rub. The pork and ribs were complemented by the sweet heat of the sauce made for Harp by Common Descent Provisions.
Ruben Leal of Caramelo Tortillas made his artisanal Sonoran style tortillas at Harp’s event, which were an impressive accompaniment for the brisket and pulled pork tacos. The event sold out within two hours. The partnership between Harp Barbecue and Crane Brewing Co. is a perfect match and the completion of a trailhead right outside the building along the nationally-recognized Katy Trail between St. Louis and Kansas City will mean a new audience of (hungry and thirsty) patrons.
Ryan Cooper and pitmaster Tyler Harp in Raytown, Missouri.
I left Kansas City feeling a certain amount of sadness that the wood-fired brick pit barbecue of Bill Chaney’s era is slowly being lost. However, I remain hopeful because barbecue continues to grow in popularity and reach new audiences through competitions and events like the Big 12 Big Q. I am especially reassured by young pitmasters like Tyler Harp, who are going to shape and elevate the future of barbecue in Kansas City and beyond.
ONE LAST THING: Congrats to Leonora Simonton of Indianapolis on winning a copy of the book Hardcore Carnivore by Jess Pryles, who made our . Thank you for subscribing to The Smoke Sheet and for being so passionate about barbecue. Look out soon for more contests for our amazing subscribers!
Ryan Cooper (BBQ Tourist)
Co-Founder, The Smoke Sheet
Here are the top recent barbecue news stories from around the country:
The barbecue tacos and pulled pork at Scott’s Kitchen in Kansas City are worth the visit.
A variety of outlets have announced “Best BBQ” results recently, including:
Scott’s Kitchen (#1) and Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que (#5), which made the list of Yelp’s top 5 places to eat in Kansas City.
Southern Soul Barbeque in St. Simon’s Island, Georgia, which is a repeat winner in Southern Living’s list of The South’s Best BBQ Joints.
Shelby, North Carolina’s Red Bridges Barbecue Lodge tops USA Today’s ranking of the Best Barbecue in North Carolina, though Bill Poteat of the Gaston Gazette created his own poll and gave Kyle Fletcher’s Barbecue top honors.
Mary and Deborah Jones of Jones Bar-B-Q in Kansas City, who we recently featured in our , were profiled by Jill Silva in Flatland right before their appearance on the Netflix series Queer Eye aired on March 15th. Their bottled barbecue sauce sold out almost immediately after the show debuted.
In another blow to North Carolina barbecue, the iconic Eastern North Carolina establishment Wilber’s Barbecue in Goldsboro has closed. A sign from the North Carolina Department of Revenue states that the restaurant has been “seized for non-payment of taxes.” Wilber’s opened in 1962.
Texas Monthly’s Daniel Vaughn writes that the huge Bartonville barbecue and steak restaurant Marty B’s goes overboard on almost everything but brisket is great.
Tennessee pitmaster Pat Martin is opening a Martin’s Bar-B-Que location on James Island in South Carolina.
The “Winningest Woman in Barbecue” Melissa Cookston is opening another Memphis Barbecue Co. at a new location in Lakeland, Tennessee in 2020. She currently has restaurant locations in Horn Lake, Mississippi and Dunwoody, Georgia.
Scott Sandlin gave a preview of the highly-anticipated 7th Annual Houston Barbecue Festival in Houston Food Finder. The festival will feature a diverse mix of barbecue with a variety of cultural influences prevalent in Houston and Southeast Texas as well as classic Central Texas barbecue fare.
Goldee’s, a new Central Texas style restaurant will open in Arlington,Texas in May, featuring three experienced pitmasters from Austin. The restaurant will be one of several new and expanded barbecue locations to open in the Dallas-Fort Worth area of late.
Meanwhile, the Twin Cities of Minneapolis-St. Paul are also experiencing a barbecue boom these days.
J.C. Reid of the Houston Chronicle writes about Blanchard Barbeque bringing Central Texas barbecue to the heart of Cajun country.
A new location of International Smoke has opened in Miami, featuring “global approaches to fire, grilling and smoke.”
Here are BBQ shows, podcasts, or books you should check out this week:
Watch: Tyler Harp of Harp Barbecue in Raytown, Missouri - Kevin’s BBQ Joints
In this episode, Kevin chats with Tyler Harp from Harp Barbecue in Raytown, Missouri. It's a story of having certain dreams as a young person and pursuing them only to have those dreams seemingly shattered. After years of introspection, Tyler realized his true passion was barbecue. During their conversation, they go extensively into Harp’s continued search for knowledge and what he plans to bring to Kansas City. Bonus footage at the end filmed by The Smoke Sheet’s own Ryan Cooper (@BBQTourist) from the grand opening of Harp Barbecue at Crane Brewing Co. in Raytown. Watch it here.
Listen: Charleston Wine + Food Festival - Tales from the Pits
Andrew and Bryan from Tales from the Pits were in attendance during the five-day Charleston Wine + Food festival this year. From whiskey-centric experiences to barbecue excursions, they did their best to take in all of the sights and sounds of this incredible culinary opportunity. This episode will give you a rundown of all of the events they covered as well as some food and drink highlights from each. The duo were fortunate to get to spend time with some amazing barbecue talents such as Rodney Scott, Sam Jones, Jonathan and Justin Fox, John Lewis, Anthony DiBernardo, and many more. Listen to it here.
Read: BBQ&A with Myron Mixon: Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Barbecue - by Myron Mixon
Have you ever wondered if you can make good barbecue without a smoker, pit, or grill? If you need to use a rub or marinade? Not sure what a brisket is, whether you need to trim it, and if so, how? In BBQ&A with Myron Mixon, bestselling author and TV personality Myron Mixon answers the questions most frequently asked of him during his many live cooking demos, TV appearances, and private cooking classes. Pre-order it here.
March 29-30: Hogs for the Cause - New Orleans, Louisiana
Hogs for the Cause returns as the largest, tastiest BBQ festival in New Orleans. The city welcomes 85 local and regional BBQ masters and the best backyard chefs to compete in seven categories: Whole Hog, Ribs, Pork Butt/Shoulder, Porkpourri, Sauce, Fan Favorite, and Fundraising Champion. The barbecue festival is a two-day event full of music, local beer, and fundraising. More info here.
March 30: Truth BBQ Beyond The Pit Dinner (A benefit for B's Cracklin BBQ) - Houston, Texas
Truth BBQ is hosting five top pitmasters from around the U.S. to raise money for relief efforts for B's Cracklin' BBQ, after a devastating fire at their Atlanta barbecue restaurant. The lineup includes Leonard Botello IV of Truth BBQ, Matt Horn of Horn BBQ, Wayne Mueller of Louie Mueller BBQ, Elliott Moss of Buxton Hall BBQ, and Burt Bakman of Trudy's Underground/Slab BBQ. More info here.
April 3-6: National Barbecue & Grilling Association Annual Conference - Kansas City, Missouri
The National Barbecue & Grilling Association (NBBQA) Annual Conference will be held at the Kansas City Marriott Downtown. Whether you are a product owner, run a restaurant, sell, buy or simply enjoy BBQ, there are boundless opportunities to network, learn, and grow at the conference. Events include bus tours, education sessions, and the BBQ bash, with presentations, demonstrations, and cookoffs. More info here.
April 10: Brisket King NYC - Brooklyn, New York
Brisket King, one of NYC’s top barbecue events, will be returning to Brooklyn on April 10. Hosted at Biba of Williamsburg, the all-inclusive event will feature 20 chefs and pitmasters serving brisket creations and much more. It will also feature a wide selection of beer, cider, wine, and spirits to enjoy. Early bird ticket sales end on March 15. More info here.
April 14: Jeff Michner BBQ Benefit - Brooklyn, New York
Pig Beach in Brooklyn will be hosting this fundraiser to raise money for Jeff Michner’s family following his sudden and unexpected death last year. The event will have an all-star lineup of pitmasters and chefs from all over the country, including Billy Durney of Hometown Bar-B-Que, Carey Bringle of Peg Leg Porker, Chris Lilly of Big Bob Gibson BBQ, Craig Verhage and Leslie Roark Scott of Ubons BBQ, John Wheeler of Memphis Barbecue Co, and Mike and Amy Mills of 17th Street Barbecue. More info here.
April 14: Houston BBQ Festival - Humble, Texas
The 7th Annual Houston BBQ Festival will take place on Sunday, April 14th from 1 to 4 p.m. at the Humble Civic Center Arena Complex. The festival will feature Houston’s best barbecue joints all in one place, including Corkscrew BBQ, Feges BBQ, Killen's Barbecue, Pinkerton's Barbecue, Roegels Barbecue Co., Tejas Chocolate & Barbecue, Victorian's Barbecue, and more. Read Scott Sandlin's full preview here. Tickets include entry into the event and unlimited samples from each participating barbecue joint. More info here.
April 20: 11th Annual North Carolina 'Cuegrass Festival - Raleigh, North Carolina
Raleigh's original bluegrass festival returns to the warehouse district of downtown Raleigh on April 20, with a jam-packed day full of great 'cue, local brews, and toe-tappin' bluegrass music. Proceeds will go to SAFEchild, Junior League of Raleigh's BackPack Buddies, and Raleigh Cub Scout Troop 325. More info here.
April 26-28: Austin Food and Wine Festival - Austin, Texas
The Austin Food + Wine Festival returns in April to spoil your palate with a handful of global and nationally renowned talent. This 3-day weekend in the culinary capital is the epitome of high spirits, with a packed schedule of hands-on grilling demos, up-close tastings with top chefs and sommeliers, and more interactive demos and panels. More info here.
May 4: Red Dirt BBQ Festival - Tyler, Texas
For five years, the Red Dirt BBQ & Music Festival has been one of the most unique food and music experiences in Texas. The sixth annual event returns to the brick streets of downtown Tyler, Texas. Tickets are sold out at present. More info here.
How to Cook Beef Ribs with Aaron Franklin
For this Recipe of the Week, we chose a short tutorial from Aaron Franklin on how to cook beef ribs. Franklin uses a smaller set of beef plate ribs and slathers them with Louisiana hot sauce to help his simple rub of kosher salt and pepper adhere to the meat. He cooks the ribs at 285 degrees for several hours until they develop a good crusty bark and feel like melted butter when probed for tenderness. The result is a moist and smoky beef rib that melts in your mouth. View the recipe here.
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