We were floored by these Houston barbecue joints
My first barbecue road trip of 2019 was an epic week-long adventure through Tennessee, Alabama, Mississippi, and quite unexpectedly, Texas. A large winter storm resulted in a last-minute change to my itinerary, so I decided to head to Houston, where the weather is warmer and the barbecue scene is hot. I’ve been hearing so many great things about the city that I decided to check it out for the first time.
Houston is the largest city in Texas and is known for its central role in space, science, and technology industries. It is notable for being an incredibly culturally diverse urban area. This is particularly noticeable in restaurants throughout the city, which often serve food influenced by different cuisines. The barbecue scene was no exception and there was no shortage of Cajun, Mexican, and Asian flavors incorporated into barbecue dishes.
In the few days I spent in Houston, I was able to visit five great barbecue restaurants. My first stop was Roegels Barbecue Co., where I had the Texas Trinity — brisket, pork spare ribs, and sausage along with coleslaw and potato salad. The ribs, sausage, and slaw were my favorites by far. Next, I went to Pinkerton’s Texas Pit Barbecue, where I enjoyed their glazed ribs, brisket, sausage, and jalapeño cheese rice.
After a fantastic start to my trip in Houston, things got even better as I arrived early to Tejas Chocolate + Barbecue in nearby Tomball. I made friends with local residents and fellow barbecue travelers in line and together we were able to sample a large number of items from their menu, including brisket, beef ribs, pork ribs, chili relleno sausage, “sea brisket” boudin (made with brisket, shrimp, lump crab, and saffron rice), carrot souffle, and even kolaches from their bakery. I was fortunate to have been able to meet head chef Greg Moore, pitmaster Scott Moore and his son Austin, who gave me a tour of the pit and answered all of my questions.
Next I was guided on backroads, bypassing highway construction, to Corkscrew BBQ, where I had brisket and pulled pork tacos and impressive pork spare ribs. I was fortunate to have met owner and pitmaster Will Buckman and his wife Nichole, who put a lot of care and effort into ensuring they are serving the highest quality barbecue.
Perhaps the highlight of an already incredible trip was my Sunday visit to Reveille Barbecue Co. in Magnolia for a special whole hog cook. At Reveille, everything I ordered was top notch, including the whole hog sliders, beef ribs, brisket, Vietnamese-inspired banh mi sausage, and Tex-lote street corn. Several pitmasters from the local community and across Texas came out to support owners James McFarland and Michael Michna for an incredible day of barbecue and fellowship.
Though it was a short visit, my experience in Houston had me excited to be attending the upcoming Houston BBQ Festival in April (see information in the Events section below). I’m also interested to see how the Houston barbecue scene will continue to be innovative and push the boundaries in barbecue, while reflecting the city’s diverse cultural and culinary identity.
Ryan Cooper (BBQ Tourist)
Co-Founder, The Smoke Sheet
Here are the top recent barbecue news stories from around the country:
Amy Mills of 17th Street Barbecue is one of nine women listed on Southern Living’s new list of most influential women in southern barbecue.
A new list from Southern Living magazine profiles the “most influential women in southern barbecue,” which includes Amy Mills from 17th Street Barbecue, Deborah and Mary Jones of Jones Bar-B-Q, Helen Turner of Helen’s Bar-B-Q, Megan Day of Burnt Finger BBQ, Melissa Cookston of Memphis Barbecue Co., Tootsie Tomanetz of Snow’s, and more.
Bill’s Barbecue closed last Wednesday night after five decades of feeding Wilson, North Carolina and generations of barbecue tourists. Bill’s was one of North Carolina’s largest barbecue operations.
After serving barbecue in Berkeley for 50 years, KC’s BBQ has received a notice of violation from the city instructing the restaurant to stop using its smoker immediately. Forcing a barbecue restaurant to stop smoking meats would essentially shut the joint down, according to Eater SF.
Texas Monthly’s Daniel Vaughn writes up three West Texas barbecue joints that are worth the visit: Convenience West in Marfa, DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ in Terlingua, and Brick Vault Brewery & BBQ in Marathon.
Next month, Chicago’s Logan Square will soon welcome Flat & Point, a new restaurant that blends Central Texas barbecue and fine dining techniques in a casual setting. Chef Brian Bruns hopes to open the restaurant either mid- or late-February.
After months of waiting and multiple delayed openings, Brenham, Texas barbecue favorite Truth BBQ is finally ready to open its doors in Houston.
Grant Pinkerton, the 30-year-old owner behind Pinkerton’s Barbecue in Houston, will soon open a location in San Antonio, according to Forbes.
The Shreveport Times outlines “five back road barbecue bites to savor in north Louisiana”, including Caddo Outdoors Bait and Tackle, Southern Smoke, and Outlaw BBQ.
In J.C. Reid’s seventh column for the Houston Chronicle exploring the origins and influences that make Southeast Texas barbecue unique, he discusses Houston barbecue and the legacy of Lyons Avenue.
Chicago’s Smoque BBQ has reopened after fire last Saturday night temporarily closed the acclaimed restaurant in Old Irving Park, according to the Chicago Tribune.
The Food Network published a new list of best barbecue from coast to coast (warning: it’s a slideshow) that includes top joints from Memphis, Nashville, Kansas City, St. Louis, and Austin.
After six years in business, well-liked San Antonio barbecue restaurant The Granary has launched new brunch, cocktail, and dinner menus. The revamped dinner menu includes items like brisket ramen, grit fritters, burnt end Bolognese with smoked rigatoni, cold-smoked king salmon, barbecue cabbage and grilled Maitake mushrooms.
A new free exhibit, "The Story of BBQ in North Carolina" opened to the public last Saturday in the North Carolina History Center at Tryon Palace in New Bern.
Here are BBQ shows, podcasts, or books you should check out this week:
Watch: Serving Culture Family Style
This documentary short from Strayer Studios features pitmaster Leslie Roark Scott from Ubon’s Barbeque in Yazoo City, Mississippi. Leslie talks about her family’s rich history and barbecue traditions. “It’s funny, something as simple as lit charcoal can take me exactly to where my roots are,” she says. The short film highlights the social and communal aspects of barbecue that are central to Ubon’s brand of barbecue. Watch it here.
Listen: Tales from the Pits Episode 89 - The Resurgence of Direct Heat Cooking
Direct heat is one of the world’s oldest forms of cooking and the barbecue world has recently seen a resurgence in the old ways of direct heat coal cooking. Top cooks like Evan LeRoy and his crew, John Brotherton, Brett Boren and others have begun utilizing direct heat pits to cook different proteins, while places like Cooper’s BBQ and Snow’s have been using this method for years. In this episode, Andrew and Bryan discuss their recent direct heat-heavy BBQ tour and are joined briefly by Evan LeRoy and Brad Robinson to talk about their direct heat cooking. Listen to it here.
Read: The Potlikker Papers: A Food History of the Modern South - by John T. Edge
The Potlikker Papers is a people’s history of the modern South, told through its food. Beginning with the pivotal role cooks and waiters played in the civil rights movement, noted authority John T. Edge narrates the South’s fitful journey from a hive of racism to a hotbed of American immigration. He shows why working-class Southern food has become a vital driver of contemporary American cuisine. Order it here.
January 25-26: Lakeland Pigfest - Lakeland, Florida
Join more than 150 competition barbecue teams for a weekend of good eatin’, friends, and tunes to benefit Lakeland-area charities during the 23rd Annual Lakeland Pigfest. Admission is $5 and kids 12 years and younger can enter for free. By purchasing food from competition teams, you’ll be supporting their efforts and local charities. More info here.
February 16: Whole Hog Barbecue Summit - Kinston, North Carolina
Barbecue cooks, judges, and festival organizers are invited to join in the fun for a day of learning, fellowship, and whole hog barbecue. Current and prospective judges get the chance for a refresher or to get on the path to being a sanctioned judge. Cooks have the opportunity to get clarifications on the rules and learn exactly what the judges are looking for. Festival organizers are able to meet one another and learn more about current rules and information. More info here.
February 21-23: Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo Bar-B-Que Contest - Houston, Texas
More than 250 teams, led by barbecue aficionados, compete in the World's Championship Bar-B-Que Contest. While most team tents are invitation-only, visitors can enjoy several public venues, including The Garden, Rockin' Bar-B-Que Saloon, and the Chuck Wagon. Activities include live music, rides, games, and more and visitors will receive a complimentary sliced brisket plate with chips and beans. More info here.
March 6-10: Charleston Food and Wine Festival - Charleston, South Carolina
Charleston Wine + Food infuses homegrown flavor with top chefs, winemakers, authors, storytellers, artisans, and food enthusiasts from around the globe for a five-day event that spans the first full weekend each March. More info here.
April 3-6: National Barbecue & Grilling Association Annual Conference - Kansas City, Missouri
The National Barbecue & Grilling Association (NBBQA) Annual Conference will be held from April 3-6, 2019 at the Kansas City Marriott Downtown. Whether you are a product owner, run a restaurant, sell, buy or simply enjoy BBQ, there are boundless opportunities to network, learn, and grow at the conference. Events include bus tours, education sessions, and the BBQ bash, with presentations, demonstrations, and cookoffs. More info here.
April 14: Houston BBQ Festival - Humble, Texas
The 7th Annual Houston BBQ Festival will take place on Sunday, April 14th from 1:00 - 4:00 pm at the Humble Civic Center Arena Complex. The festival will feature Houston’s best barbecue joints all in one place. Tickets include entry into the event and unlimited sample portions from each participating Houston barbecue joint. More info here.
April 26-28: Austin Food and Wine Festival - Austin, Texas
The Austin Food + Wine Festival returns April 26-28 to spoil your palate with a handful of global and nationally renowned talent. This 3-day weekend in the culinary capital is the epitome of high spirits, with a packed schedule of hands-on grilling demos, up-close tastings with top chefs and sommeliers, and more interactive demos and panels. Tickets will go on sale at 10 a.m. on January 24. More info here.
May 4: Red Dirt BBQ & Music Festival - Tyler, Texas
The Red Dirt BBQ & Music Festival has for five years been one of the most unique food and music experiences in Texas. The sixth annual event returns to the brick streets of Downtown Tyler, Texas, on Saturday, May 4, 2019. The music and BBQ lineup will be announced on January 25 and tickets go on sale at 10 a.m. on February 1. More info here.
Bacon Wrapped Sausage
For this edition’s Recipe of the Week, we chose a Bacon Wrapped Sausage recipe from outdoor cooking evangelist and founder of bushcooking.com, Saffron Hodgson. This tasty recipe can be served as an appetizer, finger food, or even as a main dish and while it may seem involved, it is worth the effort. The sausage is smoked at 250 degrees for 1 hour and then glazed with a sweet and savory brown sugar, honey, soy, apple juice and worcestershire glaze resulting in a delicious sweet and smoky treat. View the recipe here.
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