Life, death, and resilience in American barbecue
This week, America mourns the loss of George H.W. Bush, the 41st President of the United States and, some may not know, a longtime barbecue fan.
Throughout American history, barbecue and politics have been intertwined. George Washington frequently attended and hosted barbecues, Andrew Jackson popularized election day barbecues, and Lyndon B. Johnson practiced his “barbecue diplomacy” at the White House and at his ranch in Texas. While George H.W. Bush may not be the first president who comes to mind when thinking of barbecue, he was a tremendous supporter of this quintessentially American cuisine.
George H.W. Bush was a big fan and supporter of barbecue. (Photo courtesy of Pitts & Spitts)
It was President Bush who started the annual tradition of holding a barbecue on the South Lawn of the White House for members of Congress and their families. His successors have largely carried on the tradition, with cancellations only occurring after the terrorist attacks on September 11, 2001 and during federal budget crisis in 2013.
President Bush particularly enjoyed Texas barbecue. In 2010, when Bush’s favorite barbecue joint — Otto’s Barbecue & Hamburgers in Houston — opened its doors for the last time, he was there to say farewell. That day, he placed his usual order of beef ribs, sausage links, brisket, a side of beans, and some pecan pie. He had been a regular customer since 1959.
In recent years, Bush struggled with a number of health issues and was hospitalized several times, but the resilient former President always seemed to bounce back. Pitmaster Russell Roegels even delivered barbecue to Bush during his stay at Houston Methodist Hospital in 2017.
At 94 years of age, George H.W. Bush was the longest-lived president in U.S. history, being a few months older than President Jimmy Carter. Like the former president, American barbecue has also proven to be long-lived and resilient. In fact, a few months ago, Bush favorite Otto’s Barbecue & Hamburgers announced plans to re-open in a new location in Houston after a more-than-8-year hiatus. Something tells me President Bush would’ve been the first one through the door on opening day.
Ryan Cooper (BBQ Tourist)
Co-Founder, The Smoke Sheet
Here are the top recent barbecue news stories from around the country:
The Smoke Sheet Co-Founder Ryan Cooper with North Carolina’s Sam Jones.
Acclaimed pitmaster Sam Jones (shown above) is bringing his Eastern Carolina whole hog barbecue to Raleigh. A second location of Sam Jones BBQ is slated to open at 502 West Lenoir Street next fall. Drew Jackson of The News & Observer notes that barbecue is experiencing a nationwide revival, “with Jones among a generation of pitmasters serving some of the most sought-after bites of food in the country.”
Aaron Franklin was named one of the 55 most influential people in the food and nightlife industry by Observer because of his contributions to the world of barbecue.
The highly-anticipated barbecue restaurant Sweet Lew’s opens in Charlotte this week in a former auto shop in the Belmont neighborhood. The restaurant will include a mix of indoor and outdoor seating and will feature smoked chicken, ribs, Lexington-style pulled pork and brisket, along with sides and desserts. Additionally, the restaurant Zafran serving traditional “Pakistani Bar-B-Que” opened in the Charlotte suburb of Harrisburg.
Anthony DiBerado’s Swig & Swine is opening a new location on Market Street in downtown Charleston, South Carolina.
Austin’s Stiles Switch BBQ & Brew will feature a different special meat dish each day as part of its 12 Days of Smoked Meats event. The annual event started yesterday and runs through Sunday, December 16th.
In last week’s issue, we highlighted the Texas-style barbecue recently found by the Houston Chronicle’s J.C. Reid in Como, Italy. This week, Reid explores the popularity of Texas barbecue in Europe.
In a surprise move, Kreuz Market in Lockhart, Texas is now serving sauce for the first time in more than a century.
In Texas Monthly, Daniel Vaughn writes that hard work pays off at West Texas’ Rejino Barbeque, and green chile steals the show at Embers Barbecue, while the dishes served out of a Highway 84 service station at Pitforks and Smokerings BBQ in Slaton might make northwest Texas a barbecue destination.
Sounds Like Nashville released a list of the 6 Must Visit Barbecue Joints in Nashville.
HoneyFire Barbeque Co. was recently opened by champion pitmaster Shane Nasby in Nashville’s Bellevue area.
The ironically named One & Only BBQ is adding a fourth location in Southaven, Mississippi (just south of Memphis) and is eyeing Nashville for another location.
Indiana’s Evansville Courier & Press conducted a blind tasting of three Owensboro, Kentucky barbecue restaurants known for their barbecued mutton and burgoo. Here are the results.
Philippine Smoked BBQ & Grill will be replacing former favorite Durham’s Best BBQ in Elkton, Maryland. The restaurant will serve pork, whole chicken, kielbasa, as well as kebabs, and the popular barbecue beef and ribs.
Fox Business recently highlighted the family tradition of Lexington, North Carolina’s Barbecue Center.
The barbecue world recently lost Dale Volberg Reed, who co-authored the seminal book Holy Smoke: The Big Book of North Carolina Barbecue with her husband John Shelton Reed. The University of North Carolina Press honored her memory by republishing this interview with her.
Eater Dallas reported of the passing of Alvin Plaskoff, owner of the Dallas area barbecue restaurant Big Al’s Smokehouse Barbecue. His family have taken over operations to ensure that his legacy lives on.
Here are BBQ shows, podcasts, or books you should check out this week:
Watch: Making Gumbo Jubilee: Triumph of Dr. Howard Conyers
This delightful short film chronicles a day in the life of Dr. Howard Conyers (shown above), a rocket scientist and BBQ pitmaster, as he prepares to roast a whole cow for his Gumbo Jubilee celebration. The Gumbo Jubilee event was a community-wide celebration of African-American culinary heritage and foodways, which was held on Saturday, October 20th as part of the 300th year commemoration of the city of New Orleans. Many notable African-American chefs, historians and food writers traveled to New Orleans to support the event. Watch it here.
Listen: Smoking Hot Confessions: Season 3
Australia’s Ben Arnot is “bring sexy BBQ back to the everyman” with his Smoking Hot Confessions podcast. Season 3 was released in full this week, following Arnot and his family as they road trip across Texas, Louisiana, and Arkansas. Guests this season include Bush Cooking founder and National Barbecue & Grilling Association Executive Director Saffron Hodgson, pitmaster Craig “BBQ Ninja” Verhage, and Jill Bergus from Lockhart Smokehouse. Listen to it here.
Read: Turnip Greens and Tortillas: A Mexican Chef Spices Up the Southern Kitchen - by Eddie Hernandez and Susan Puckett
Turnip Greens and Tortillas explores the fast-casual food of Eddie Hernandez, the James Beard-nominated chef/co-owner of Taqueria del Sol, highlighting the commonalities of Southern and Mexican food, with dishes like Memphis barbecue pork tacos, chicken pot pie served in a “bowl” of a puffed tortilla, turnip greens in “pot likker” spiked with chiles, or the “Eddie Palmer,” sweet tea with a jab of tequila. Eddie frequently breaks with tradition in order to improve the taste of his dishes. Throughout the book, the sidebars show ”Eddie’s Way” of making each dish special. Order it here.
December 9: Houston vs Austin BBQ Throwdown - Austin, Texas
The Houston Barbecue Festival and Friends & Allies Brewing have announced the second annual HOU-ATX BBQ Throwdown featuring top barbecue restaurants from Houston and Austin. They’ll be competing to determine who reigns supreme when it comes to Texas barbecue. Austin joints include Brotherton’s Black Iron Barbecue, LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, and Micklethwait Craft Meats. Houston joints include Beaver’s, Daddy Duncan's BBQ, Harlem Road Texas BBQ, and Victorian's Barbecue. More info here.
December 14-15: 6th Annual Downtown Throwdown - Las Vegas, Nevada
The Nevada BBQ Association will host the 6th Annual Downtown Throwdown barbecue competition on December 14-15, 2018 at the Fremont Street Experience in Las Vegas, Nevada. More info here.
December 28-29: Arizona National BBQ Stampede - Phoenix, Arizona
The Arizona National BBQ Stampede is a special event brought to you by the Arizona National Livestock Show in collaboration with the Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS). Teams will be able to enter the competition to earn points at the first event of the KCBS competition season. More info here.
December 31-January 1: Fired Up Kosher BBQ Battle and Festival - Boca Raton, Florida
The Jay Feder Jewelers Fired Up Kosher BBQ Battle and Festival will be held on January 1st, 2019 at the South County Regional Park in Boca Raton, Florida from 1:00-5:00 pm. The event will include a barbecue competition, food for sale, and family activities. Proceeds will help support Hadar High School for Girls. More info here.
January 20-22: Whole Hog Extravaganza / Brisket Bonanza / BBQ MBA - Murphysboro, Illinois
Restaurateurs, barbecue competitors, caterers, and enthusiasts are invited to level up and continue your education at the Whole Hog Extravaganza, a one-of-a-kind seminar at 17th BBQ in Murphysboro. Pitmasters and speakers on hand will include Tank Jackson of Holy City Hogs, John Lewis of Lewis Barbecue, and Mike and Amy Mills of 17th Street Barbecue. More info here.
Stuffed Bacon Wrapped Chicken Breasts
Mike from the excellent new YouTube Channel Everyday BBQ & Cuisine shares this recipe for Stuffed Bacon Wrapped Chicken Breasts cooked on the Pit Barrel Cooker. The chicken is stuffed with cheddar cheese, butter, garlic, and herbs, then wrapped in bacon for a juicy and succulent main dish.
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