5 Barbecue Heritage Sites That Need UNESCO Recognition
This week’s guest article is written by John Tanner, founder of John Tanner’s Barbecue Blog. John is based in Washington, D.C., and has been writing about barbecue joints, events, and notable people in BBQ since 2015. Read the full list of John’s UNESCO-proposed BBQ sites here. If you want to write a guest article for The Smoke Sheet, please get in touch.
Legendary barbecue joints like Red Bridges Barbecue Lodge in Shelby, North Carolina, should be UNESCO heritage sites. (Photo by John Tanner)
It’s time that barbecue received the international recognition it deserves, and there actually is a vehicle tailor-made for that: UNESCO. That’s the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization, and it promotes the preservation of both tangible and intangible cultural heritage. Or at least that’s what it’s supposed to do.
Sites with this designation include some in the United States, such as buildings (Independence Hall) and natural wonders (the Grand Canyon). Fine.
UNESCO also is supposed to honor Intangible Heritage, and it’s jumped on such obvious wonders as the artisanal skill and culture of the French baguette, the Neapolitan pizza, and Korean Kimchi, as well as less obvious artisanal skills and cultures, such as the Kupres grass mowing competition in Kupres, Bosnia-Herzegovina. Also fine.
UNESCO has not recognized a single cultural heritage tradition from the United States. Not one. Not fine.
Scott’s Bar-B-Que in Hemingway, South Carolina is well known for serving some of the best whole hog in the country. (Photo by Tales from the Pits)
Well, UNESCO sits in Paris, and rumor has it that some folks in Paris scorn American culture. Honestly, now? Jazz, the blues, and bluegrass aren’t longstanding traditions of undoubted worth? Heck, the traditional hog call is right up there with the Alheda’a camel call. Think of our many distinctive foods that are the product of artisanal skill handed down through generations.
Standing magisterially above all other traditions is barbecue. The United States is a huge and diverse nation, and barbecue involves food traditions as various and distinct as the grasses of Bosnia-Herzegovina. The oldest and, in my opinion, the greatest is that of pork. Pork barbecue dates back to the colonial period, and has played a key role in the culture of the nation, from community-building to vote-buying, the latter often in tandem with another American cultural wonder, Kentucky bourbon.
Helen’s Bar B Q in Brownsville, Tennessee has an unassuming home but serves incredible, smoked pork. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)
For centuries Americans have cooked pork slowly directly over wood coals and served barbecue with a wide range of distinctive sauces and side dishes. The core elements of pork barbecue (beef has very different traditions) are pork, cooked directly over wood burned down to coals, with a human being watching over it.
Places true to this core tradition are disappearing, as many “barbecue” places now cook entirely with gas or electricity, often with the cooking regulated by machines rather than artisans. The tradition and culture are at risk. It’s time we stepped up to recognize the value of our culture and demand UNESCO recognition.
To that end, here’s a small list of places that I personally have verified adhere tightly to the core tradition. That means that I’ve eaten there and personally seen the pit in recent years.
The outstanding barbecue at Allman's Bar-B-Q is worth a trip. (Photo by John Tanner)
Allman’s Bar-B-Q in Fredericksburg, Virginia
Allman’s Bar-B-Q has been a community institution in Fredericksburg for years. A while back, they switched from all-wood cooking to what I call a “set and forget” system, and the barbecue went North from there. No more. Now is the winter of our discontent, made glorious summer by pitmaster Matt Deaton. The chopped pork, slaw, and greens are outstanding. READ MORE.
The ribs at Archibald’s in Tuscaloosa are some of the best in the world. (Photo by Ronnie Caponetto)
Archibald’s in Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Archibald’s has the best ribs in the world. Let’s get that out of the way. For decades, they have cooked ribs and pork in a pit over hickory coals, and they have cooked a lot of it. You should go to Archibald’s. There are a lot of reasons to visit Tuscaloosa other than barbecue — the sports, the University theatre programs, the local art museum with the truly outstanding Westervelt Collection, and the Bear Bryant Museum. But the ribs at Archibald’s are reason enough. READ MORE.
The smoked bologna sandwich at Helen's is spectacular treat. (Photo by Ryan Cooper)
Helen’s Bar B Q in Brownsville, Tennessee
Helen’s has been discovered and celebrated — by Garden and Gun more than once, by Southern Living, by the Southern Foodways Alliance, and by a host of others. It is also the smokiest barbecue place I’ve ever visited. Helen Turner cooks pork shoulders over a pit six days a week, and she does it the right way. She burns a mixture of oak and hickory down to coals in one pit and then shovels them into the bottom of another, the cooking pit. Go to Helen’s. Go to Memphis and drive up. Go to Nashville and drive over. Drive from wherever you are. READ MORE.
The Red Bridges Barbecue Lodge has been a North Carolina staple for decades. (Photo by John Tanner)
Red Bridges Barbecue Lodge in Shelby, North Carolina
Red Bridges has a lot of hard-won fans It won the Garden and Gun barbecue bracket, defeating Scott’s, Big Bob Gibson’s, Joe’s Kansas City, Payne’s, and even Franklin’s and its massive publicity machine. Red Bridges has been in business since 1946 and co-founder Lyttle Bridges Cabaniss was inducted into the BBQ Hall of Fame recently. The spot specializes in moist, tender, and flavorful pork and delicious slaw. Do not pass up an opportunity to eat the barbecue at Red Bridges. It’s only about 10 miles from I-85, and only 36 miles from the Charlotte airport. It is well worth the drive. Actually, Red Bridges is well worth a 100-mile drive or more. I’m more than thankful that I drive 460 miles each way to get there. READ MORE.
The whole hog is the star at Scott’s Bar-B-Que. (Photo by John Tanner)
Scott’s Bar-B-Que in Hemingway, South Carolina
Scott’s Bar-B-Que is the stuff of legend. I first heard about it over 40 years ago, but never went because it takes a special trip to get there. The 426 residents of Hemingway live well off the road to anywhere else. That changed in 1972 when Ella and Roosevelt Scott opened Scott’s Bar-B-Que and started cooking incredible whole hogs. Word of Scott’s filtered up to the New York Times by 2009, and then the likes of Anthony Bourdain, Andrew Zimmern, and the James Beard Foundation. The pork is absolutely delicious. Wherever you are, you owe it to yourself to go to Scott’s. READ MORE.
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My travels have been limited, and often I haven’t seen the cooking. I acknowledge there are many great barbecue places in Arkansas, Georgia, and Kentucky, and applaud the resurgence of wood-cooking barbecue in Virginia.
Again, other meats have their own traditions, and these deserve their own recognition. Think of the Texas traditions exemplified by the City Market in Luling and Vera’s Backyard Bar-B-Que in Brownsville, to name two. And my apologies to those worthy places that I left out. I welcome that verification of additional sites, as I intend to supplement the full list, state by state, and to add Texas and other noble barbecue traditions.
So what do we do? The UNESCO procedure for designating a cuisine is as opaque and jargon-ridden as you can imagine. To start, spread the word. Search out local direct heat pits and let me know. A Texas specialist needs to come forward. Most of all, share this with your state and local elected officials, your senators, and your representative. It might keep them busy enough to avoid actual harm.
John Tanner
Founder, John Tanner's Barbecue Blo
—Brett Boren recently announced the closure of Brett’s Backyard BBQ in Rockdale. (Photo by Chris Bengston)—
HOT OFF THE PRESS
The owners of the acclaimed Brett’s Backyard BBQ announced last week that the joint has closed its current operation at The Backyard in Rockdale, Texas. It is uncertain where the operation will end up but it will continue to do pop-ups in the meantime. “We have made the decision to end our time at The Backyard,” Owner Brett Boren wrote on social media. “It has been a difficult decision to make, as we have made so many great memories and even more friendships over the years at The Backyard! With growth comes obstacles, and right now we need time to figure out our next move. We are sorry for any inconvenience this might cause. We will definitely still be doing some pop-ups and BBQ Festivals in the near future so we can stay in touch with y’all.” READ MORE.
This past weekend, the Houston Rodeo hosted the 2023 World Championship Bar-B-Que, one of the largest competition barbecue events in the country. This year's Grand Overall Champion was Jasper County Go Texan. The Reserve Grand Champion prize went to McLennan County Go Texan. READ MORE.
Lexington Betty Smokehouse pitmaster Dominique Leach is redefining Midwest BBQ in Chicago and beyond. Leach also recently launched her own Wagyu steak hot dog line, but her focus for the most part is on her barbecue operation. “When I think of Chicago barbecue, I immediately think of rib tips on a bed of fries with mild sauce,” Leach told Midwest Living. “To me, Lexington Betty is the epitome of Chicago barbecue. I like to say our concept is like if Memphis and North Carolina had a baby, and then you add the Lexington, Mississippi, sides to it, and it's a beautiful story of Chicago's history and Chicago-style BBQ.” READ MORE.
Memphis city leaders are continuing to question whether or not Memphis in May will destroy newly-renovated Tom Lee Park. The event has already scaled down to just 150 teams this year to work with the new space, but questions still surround the event. “You know, you can have nice things and not tear them up,” Councilman Dr. Jeff Warren said. “Are you going to be able to set up your tents and do your thing without damaging the park?” READ MORE.
Texas Monthly’s Daniel Vaughn shares 19 terms you need to know to be able to talk Wagyu. READ MORE.
ADDITIONAL READS
Fasicka and Patrick Hicks of Smoke'N Ash BBQ in Arlington have received national recognition for their fusion of Texas barbecue and Ethiopian cuisine.
Smoke-A-Holics BBQ pitmaster Derrick Walker cooks up Texas-style barbecue with a soulful twist in Fort Worth.
The planned opening for the new Brix Barbecue brick-and-mortar location has been postponed due to requirements from the City of Fort Worth.
The ‘Cracker Barrel’ of barbecue, Mike D’s BBQ will sell barbecue sauce, grills, and brisket in East Durham, according to Eater Carolinas.
Raleigh staple Clyde Cooper’s Barbeque turns 85 this year.
Acclaimed Tomball, Texas barbecue joint Tejas Chocolate + Barbecue has partnered with an East Coast delivery company to offer popular menu items in New York City.
Papalo and Modbom join forces to offer barbecue and cocktails in the East Village area, according to Eater San Diego.
California pitmaster Shawn Walchef, a self described digital sociologist, reimagines his restaurant as a video content studio.
—Sloan Rinaldi of Texas Q is taking her family barbecue tradition in a new direction. (Photo via Texas Q/Instagram)—
WATCH
Sloan Rinaldi of Texas Q — Texas Country Reporter
At Texas Q in Kingwood, Sloan Rinaldi is the first woman in her family to take over the barbecue pit in over a hundred years. Rinaldi is a fourth-generation Texas pitmaster with a driving desire to smoke memorable barbecue and to help establish a place for women in the industry. At her food truck, Texas Q, she honors her family’s roots and Houston’s diverse culinary landscape, while finding joy in serving her customers. WATCH HERE.
LISTEN
Sterling Ball of Big Poppa Smokers — Tailgate Guys BBQ Podcast
This episode of the Tailgate Guys BBQ Podcast features a wide-ranging conversation with Sterling “Big Poppa” Ball of Big Poppa Smokers. With 46 career KCBS Grand Championships and 40 Reserved Grands in 254 lifetime competitions, plus his own line of seasons, smokers and accessories, Sterling touches on the tough environment for competition these days, the glory days of his career, his remaining goals in BBQ and compares the creative process in cooking to the music world. LISTEN HERE.
READ
BBQ For All: Year-Round Outdoor Cooking with Recipes for Meat, Vegetables, Fish, & Seafood — Marcus Bawdon
For barbecue supremo and teacher Marcus Bawdon, outdoor cooking should always be tempting, whatever your food choices. And it doesn’t always have to be about huge slabs of meat! This book will inspire you to pull together feasts guaranteed to wow your friends and family, regardless of dietary preferences or requirements. The art of BBQ has taken off around the globe, and Marcus experienced exciting methods first-hand from South America to Japan, Italy to India. Here he takes inspiration from a wealth of culinary influences to demonstrate how far cooking with fire has come and how flavorsome it can be, even for those with a specific dietary need. Here the doors of Marcus’ own UK BBQ School have been thrown wide open so you can see in glorious technicolor in his stunning photographs what is possible, to encourage you to take giant leaps forward on your own BBQ at home. ORDER HERE.
—You’ll definitely want to try this delicious Armadillo Eggs recipe from Rosalie of Cast Iron Skillz. (Photo by Heights Meat Market)—
Armadillo Eggs
By Cast Iron Skillz
What could be better than a stuffed jalapeño wrapped in American Wagyu Beef and Duroc Bacon, smoked low and slow to perfection? This recipe for Armadillo Eggs was created by Rosalie of Cast Iron Skillz. She used Snake River Farms ground beef, plenty of Heights Meat Market’s High Noon seasoning, and then stuffed them with Wisconsin Cheese Curds + Cream Cheese. Drizzle or glaze with Blues Hog sauce and slice or serve whole for a delicious spicy and smoky treat!
—Don't miss out on awesome BBQ events this spring.—
March 31-April 1, 2023: Hogs For the Cause — New Orleans, Louisiana
The Hogs For the Cause barbecue competition and festival is back in 2023 for its 15th anniversary. The event will be held at the UNO Lakefront Arena festival grounds. Proceeds go to fight pediatric brain cancer. MORE INFO HERE.
April 2, 2023: Houston Barbecue Festival — Humble, Texas
The Houston Barbecue Festival will return for its 10th anniversary this April. Tickets are now on sale for the event that includes some of the state’s best pitmasters and barbecue joints such as CorkScrew BBQ in Spring, Brett’s BBQ Shop in Katy, Harlem Road Texas BBQ in Richmond, Tejas Chocolate & BBQ in Tomball, and more than a dozen of Houston’s most popular ’cue restaurants. MORE INFO HERE.
April 26, 2023: Brisket King NYC — Queens, New York
The 12th Edition of Brisket King NYC will be held outdoors at the huge Pig Beach BBQ location in Queens, NYC this April. The event will feature brisket dishes from upcoming barbecue pitmasters and chefs. Historically, Brisket King has featured many pitmasters before they were household names, so you’re also getting a look at the future of the barbecue scene. MORE INFO HERE.
May 17-20, 2023: Memphis in May — Memphis, Tennessee
Recognized as one of the world’s most prestigious barbecue contests, the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest is a four-day competition held in Memphis. Teams representing the best of barbecue that have been honing their craft for years compete for the title of World Champion and a share of the more than $145,000 in prize money. The event will be held again at Tom’s River Park after a hiatus. However, based on the reduction in space in the new Tom Lee Park the event organizers expect the contest will be limited to 150 teams. MORE INFO HERE.
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