Touring the Best BBQ Joints in Eastern North Carolina
This week’s guest article is written by Monk, a native of North Carolina and co-founder of the Barbecue Bros blog. Along with his friends and fellow Barbecue Bros Speedy and Rudy, Monk has traveled around eating, rating, ranking, and reviewing barbecue joints since 2012. If you would like to write a guest article for The Smoke Sheet, please get in touch.
As the old saying goes, more often than not, a person’s favorite barbecue is what he or she was raised on. Here at Barbecue Bros, it should be no secret that we are Lexington-style barbecue fans (sometimes known as Piedmont- or Western-style barbecue) through and through. This shouldn’t be surprising since each of my three co-founders and I were raised in High Point, NC, just under 20 miles up I-85 from the (often disputed) Barbecue Capital of NC in Lexington.
However, despite the two warring styles of barbecue in the state, I have never harbored any ill-will toward my whole hog compatriots to the east. While I’ve spent many a tank of gas exploring all the Lexington-style joints in the western Piedmont of NC, I’ve bemoaned for years the fact that I just simply haven’t had a ton of reasons to spend much time in the eastern part of the state where whole hog and a vinegar pepper sauce reign supreme.
Thankfully, earlier this year, I finally had a reason to be in Pitt County — home to Greenville, Winterville, and Ayden — in eastern North Carolina for a couple of days. While my free time was somewhat limited due to the eldest Monkette’s gymnastics exploits, I hoped to make the most of being in the heart of whole hog country.
B’s Barbecue may not be much to look at but the food is great. (Photo by Monk / Barbecue Bros)
B’s Barbecue – Greenville
Open Wednesdays through Saturdays from 9 a.m. until sold out (or 2:30 p.m., whichever comes first) and without any indoor dining, you will almost certainly wait in a line at B’s Barbecue. Particularly if East Carolina University (ECU) has a home football game. But this is no central Texas-style line; it moves fairly quickly and efficiently. Arriving right at 9, I was 11th or so in line and got my food within 40 minutes. Part of that is because B’s has a pretty limited menu: barbecue, chicken, bread (corn sticks), and sides of slaw, potatoes, or green beans. So really, you should know your order by the time you get up there.
The chopped whole hog pork was really flavorful if not overly smoky due to primarily being cooked over charcoal briquettes. It was also leaner than the other whole hog I’d have later that weekend. Regardless, this barbecue fully lived up to my lofty expectations.
B’s Barbecue has its own road sign. (Photo by Monk / Barbecue Bros)
The corn sticks at B’s (called “bread” on the menu board) were the first corn sticks I’ve personally had and were my favorite cornmeal of my trip. They were so good that I bought an extra dozen and took them home to the family. The eastern-style slaw was about what I’d expect, but I did enjoy the potatoes, a simple side that’s not really found in the Piedmont.
The three sisters at B’s have made it clear that they won’t be running it forever, so be sure to get there sooner rather than later for some otherworldly whole hog.
Sam Jones BBQ in Winterville is one of the only places to eat BBQ on Sunday in the area. (Photo by Monk / Barbecue Bros)
Sam Jones BBQ — Winterville
In Pitt County, there seem only to be a couple of barbecue options on Sundays. B’s Barbecue, Skylight Inn, and Bum’s Restaurant are all closed to give those family-run operations a day of rest (though, of course, the prep for the next week surely begins). Parker’s Barbecue has a few Greenville-area locations and is open 10-8:30 seven days a week, but it is a gas-cooked barbecue that may actually be better known for its fried chicken. For true ‘cue, wood-smoked barbecue, your main option on Sundays is Sam Jones BBQ in Winterville, between Ayden and Greenville.
Compared with the barbecue at Skylight Inn, although Sam Jones BBQ’s whole hog was very good, it somewhat paled in comparison. The chop was coarser than I prefer, the cracklins mixed into the barbecue weren’t quite as crisp, and the barbecue portion was a little lacking. Still, it was very good barbecue and better than 90% of other barbecue joints in the state.
Sam Jones BBQ in Winterville has a wider ranging menu than its sibling joint Skylight Inn. (Photo by Monk / Barbecue Bros)
I also finally tried the pit chicken that seems to be the second barbecue item at each restaurant in Pitt County, and while it didn’t blow me away, the leaner poultry was a nice change of pace.
While there are clearly a couple of better options for barbecue nearby (which in this case means truly transcendent barbecue), I would happily eat at a Sam Jones BBQ were it in my hometown. Speaking of which: any plans to open a store in Charlotte, Sa
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Many folks make the BBQ pilgrimage to Skylight Inn in Ayden throughout the year. (Photo by Monk / Barbecue Bros)
Skylight Inn — Ayden
Finally, the real barbecue reason to make the trip to Pitt County. Truth be told, despite my excitement over finally trying B’s Barbecue, the main event of the trip was finally making it to Skylight Inn. This Jones family restaurant has been open since 1947 and is truly one of the cathedrals of NC barbecue, regardless of style.
The whole hog, cornbread, and slaw at Skylight Inn. (Photo by Monk / Barbecue Bros)
Thousands of people make the pilgrimage to Skylight Inn every day, and something about the whole hog eaten within the walls of Skylight Inn just tasted better than the Sam Jones barbecue I’ve been fortunate to have tasted at events in Charlotte or his two restaurants. Perhaps it was the thrill of finally being in this hallowed building with the sounds of hog being chopped on a wood block right behind the registers, but the cracklins seemed crispier, and the pork seemed fresher. It was truly life-changing whole hog. Not too much more that I can say.
Conclusion
Did I come away from my whole hog experience in Eastern NC forsaking my beloved Lexington-style barbecue in favor of the original style of barbecue in the United States? No, of course not. But while I did already have an awareness and respect for the other style of the Old North State’s barbecue, I came away from this trip with a whole new appreciation and a newfound mission to get back as soon as reasonable to try the other legendary whole hog places I have yet to make it to.
Monk
Co-Founder, Barbecue Bros
The second location of South Carolina staple Lewis Barbecue opens today in Greenville. (Photo by Savannah Bokus)
HOT OFF THE PRESS
For years, Lewis Barbecue in Charleston has been one of the top barbecue joints in South Carolina. Today, owner John Lewis is opening a long-awaited second location in Greenville, SC. “We’ve been approached a lot of times to open up a second location but it never felt right,” Lewis told Eater. “I wanted the second spot to be in a city that had a solid food community and was also close enough so I could easily drive there often and check in. What we do is so methodical and I’m really dedicated to making sure it feels and tastes the same as our first location.” READ MORE.
Texas-Style barbecue has spread across the U.S. at a rapid clip. All over the country, you’ll find more and more restaurants and pop-ups featuring huge offset smokers and slow-cooked brisket, pork ribs, and sausage. One of the best chroniclers of this spread is Kevin Kelly of Kevin’s BBQ Joints, who has interviewed most of the top joints across the country. One of his newest features shows off where to eat amazing barbecue platters by Texas-style BBQ Joints outside of Texas. READ MORE.
Travis Heim, owner of Heim BBQ, has taken turkey off the menu at his restaurants. He’s not the only one. Turkey prices have risen after an avian flu outbreak killed off many birds in recently. “For the last month, we haven’t been making money with turkey,” Heim told X. “We’re paying almost, close to $2/pound more than we pay for our prime grade, certified Angus brisket. So just crazy.” READ MORE.
ADDITIONAL READS
Popular New Jersey BBQ joint Red White and Que Smokehouse recently moved a larger location and is now looking at an even brighter future.
NPR international correspondent John Ruwitch, who grew up in St. Louis, decided to go searching for American barbecue in southern China this summer.
Here is the ultimate guide to the best barbecue in Charlotte, North Carolina.
The Backyard, a new laid-back barbecue restaurant that is only a few steps from the Pacific Ocean, has opened in the city of Seal Beach outside of LA.
Longtime pitmaster Nathan Montgomery is now a part-owner of buzzy St. Louis BBQ joint The Stellar Hog.
—Pitmaster Arnis Robbins is the driving force behind Evie Mae’s BBQ, one of the top spots in Texas.—
WATCH
How Pitmaster Arnis Robbins Built One of the Best BBQ Spots in West Texas — Smoke Point
Just outside Lubbock, Texas, Arnis Robbins serves some of the best barbecue in the state at Evie Mae's, with dishes like pork ribs, green chile cheese sausage, brisket, and more. WATCH HERE.
LISTEN
Chef David Olson of Live Fire Republic — Absolute Fire
Michelle Lundstrom’s new podcast Absolute Fire is a genuine and hilarious podcast that dives into all things fire. For the first episode of the show, she is joined by Chef David Olson, the man behind Live Fire Republic. Olson was determined to grind his way out of the 9-5 and into a successful business of his own. He shares his insight on what it takes to make it there and keep thriving. LISTEN HERE.
READ
The Complete Guide to Smoking Meat: 100 Smokin' Good Recipes for BBQ and More — Derrick Riches and Sabrina Baksh
The Complete Guide to Smoking Meat gives you the know-how to make melt-in-your-mouth smoked meat at home. This essential smoker cookbook provides clear, step-by-step methods and recipes that will get you fired up about BBQ and turn you into a meat smoking master. ORDER HERE.
s spicy and crunchy Jalapeño Slaw recipe is the perfect accompaniment to a number of dishes. (Photo by Wai Chan)
Jalapeño Slaw
By Raikes Beef Co.
This jalapeño slaw recipe from Raikes Beef Co. is a great accompaniment for any meal, including tacos, grilled meats, and hot dogs. It is a spicy, crunchy, and delicious dish that is simple to make using a few basic ingredients.
Learn more about Southside Market Barbeque.
—A lot of big barbecue events are happening this fall, including the American Royal. (Photo by Wai Chan)—
September 17, 2022: Second Annual Pitmaster Party: Wild Game Edition — Fulshear, Texas
Historic Dozier’s BBQ in Fulshear will host their Second Annual Pitmaster Party: Wild Game Edition on Saturday, Sept 17th, from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The outdoor event will feature top pitmasters from the Houston area and beyond, benefiting the Fulshear Police Foundation. Dozier’s pitmaster Jim Buchanan is rounding up some of his close friends in the industry, including Feges BBQ, Blood Bros., Roegels Barbecue, Brotherton’s, Harlem Road, Tejas Chocolate & Barbecue, Burnt Bean Co., Interstellar BBQ, and more for what should be an unforgettable BBQ event. Coinciding with the start of hunting season, the top pitmasters each will offer a dish featuring wild game meat. MORE INFO HERE.
Sept 28 - Oct 2, 2022: American Royal World Series of Barbecue — Kansas City, Kansas
The American Royal World Series of barbecue is the largest BBQ competition in the country. On top of a massive KCBS competition with roughly 500 teams from around the country, this signature Kansas City event includes public-facing activities, including live music, delicious BBQ and local food, a full lineup of kids activities, and a vendor fair authentic to Kansas City and BBQ enthusiasts. Read our 2021 recap of the event to learn more about the experience. MORE INFO HERE.
October 14-15, 2022: The Jack — Lynchburg, Tennessee
It's rare that whiskey-making takes a backseat to much of anything in Lynchburg, Tennessee. But “The Jack,” one of the top KCBS competitions annually, is an exception. For one weekend in October, barbecue competitors from around the world converge to wield their grilling and smoking expertise. On top of the competition, other events are held to provide a lively and fun atmosphere for families and friends. MORE INFO HERE.
October 22, 2022: GrillGirl X GrillGrate Women’s Grilling Clinic — Fort Myers, Florida
Grill Girl Robyn Lindars is teaming up with GrillGrate to host a Women’s Grilling Clinic at the Robot Ranch in Fort Myers, Florida. The goal of the Women’s Grilling Clinic is to teach women the fundamentals of grilling in a relaxed “Girls Night Out” Atmosphere. This class is for any woman who wants to learn how to grill, learn different styles of grilling, and try new recipes to remake at home. In addition to Robyn, instructors include Erica Blaire Roby, Sunny Moody, Brooke Lewis, and Ron Dimpflmaier. MORE INFO HERE.
October 22, 2022: World Championship Hot Wing Contest and Festival — Memphis, Tennessee
The 2022 World Championship Hot Wing Contest & Festival (WCHWCF) will take place Saturday, October 22 (11 a.m. – 7 p.m.) at Tiger Lane, on the grounds of the Liberty Bowl Memorial Stadium in Memphis, TN. This will mark the 20th year of the festival, previously known as the Southern Hotwing Festival. Whether you like your wings grilled, smoked or fried, with seasonings that range from sweet to savory to exotic, there’s sure to be something for everyone. The event will benefit The Ronald McDonald House Charities of Memphis and will also include fun, family friendly activities such as the Kids Korner, the popular Corn Hole Tournament, and the Wing Eating Contest. MORE INFO HERE.
November 11-13, 2022: KCBS World Invitational — Gadsden, Alabama
The Kansas City Barbeque Society’s biggest event for the rest of the year is the fourth annual KCBS World Invitational Barbeque Competition. The event will bring together top champion pitmasters to compete for the title of “KCBS World Champion.” This event will feature three full days of contests and events. There will be both an open contest and a Master Series contest. Plus, backyard teams will be eligible to compete in the open against Master Series teams without impacting their Backyard status. MORE INFO HERE.
November 18-20, 2022: Jacksonville BBQ Fest — Jacksonville, Florida
During the past few years, Florida has become an even bigger attraction for barbecue restaurants and events. The Jacksonville BBQ Fest, held at TIAA Bank Field (where the Jaguars play), is one event that brings barbecue fans together to get a taste of great local and national barbecue bites. On top of the top-notch food, there’s also live music and great drinks to enjoy. To get a taste of this event, be sure to read Ed Reilly’s recap of the Denver BBQ Festival, which is hosted by the same organizers. MORE INFO HERE.
November 19, 2022: Holy Smokes BBQ Festival — Charleston, South Carolina
Aaron Siegel and Taylor Garrigan of Home Team BBQ, Anthony DiBernardo of Swig & Swine, and Robert Moss, the Contributing BBQ Editor for Southern Living, have invited the leaders of the barbecue community from around the country to come together in Charleston on November 19th, 2022 at Riverfront Park. With live music playing on stage against the backdrop of the Cooper River, guests will have a unique opportunity to sample a range of barbecue styles from the group of renowned pitmasters. Expect to taste slow-smoked whole hog, pork and beef ribs, Texas-style brisket, smoked sausage, BBQ tacos, and much, much more. MORE INFO HERE.
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