The Ten Best Spots for Barbecue in Virginia

This week’s guest article is written by John Tanner, founder of John Tanner’s Barbecue Blog. John is based in Washington, D.C., and has been writing about barbecue joints, events, and notable people in BBQ since 2015. If you would like to write a guest article for The Smoke Sheet, please get in touch.

There was a time when candidates for office in Virginia wooed Virginia voters with barbecue, beer, and brandy. The voters wisely elected people like Washington, Madison, and Monroe. But where are the barbecues of yesteryear? By the late 20th century, when I moved to Washington, what little “barbecue” there was seemed to be cooked in ovens or crock pots, hardly a diet for another generation of Framers.

Virginia’s long and noble tradition of pork barbecue was a shadow of its former self. The time was out of joint, but people like Joe Haynes and Joshua Fitzwater of Southern Grit Magazine were born to set it right. You can now get very good pork all over Virginia, from north to south and east to west, and the national explosion of brisket has brought a delicious invasive species.

I recently was offended by Yelp’s posting a list of the Top Ten Barbecue Places in Eastern North Carolina. Why wait for Yelp to offend me again? Why not do a Virginia list? I’ve been driving all over Virginia checking out places on behalf of the Campaign for Real Barbecue, and there now are enough places worthy of recognition.

So here are my picks, divided into three categories for pork, brisket, and ribs, as I don’t think it makes sense to compare the foods to each other. The best places in each category are listed alphabetically. I refuse to choose among my children. Finally, my policy is to include places in only one meat category. If you’re on the Best Pork list, you can’t be on the brisket or ribs list, and vice versa.

BEST PORK

Allman’s Bar-B-Q in Fredericksburg is a leading example of the Virginia barbecue revival. Allman’s had been a Fredericksburg institution for years, but they succumbed to the lure of ease and switched to a gas smoker, and quality and business suffered. Now, Matt Deaton has taken over Allman’s and brings his experience at the Skylight Inn and Sam Jones BBQ to Virginia.

Pitmaster Matt Deaton is helping to lead a barbecue revival in Virginia. (Photo via Allman’s BBQ/Facebook)

The Barbeque Exchange in Gordonsville in Orange County is another top place. Craig Hartman knows how to cook pork, and his sauces complement the flavor of the rough-chopped meat. A sandwich and some of his Brunswick stew — there’s a meal! I need to get back out to try some of his ribs, not to mention some Gordonsville fried chicken.

I only recently discovered Bean’s Barbecue in Edinburg in Shenandoah County, but the pork sandwich knocked my socks off. Figuratively. The smoke, the pork flavor, and the texture and moistness all were excellent. Justin Davis is a wizard, and it’s no surprise that he pulls hungry folks from Pennsylvania and DC to Edinburg over in the Shenandoah Valley. The barbecue is worth the trip.

Another top place is Northern Neck BBQ in Westmoreland County. Northern Neck, formally Northern Neck BBQ at the Barn, is set in a covered pavilion in Montross, a small town in Westmoreland County, birthplace of barbecue hounds George Washington and James Monroe. It’s a charming place, and Ben Hudson’s pork is wonderful, especially in a sandwich topped with their barely-dressed slaw on the sandwich for texture and tartness. Northern Neck is out of the way, but well worth the trip.

Redemption BBQ sources local, heritage breed hogs and cooks by traditional methods. (Photo via Redemption BBQ and Market/Facebook)

Redemption BBQ in Henrico has very good pork. The owner, the Rev. Dr. Porkchop, also known as John Vest, is committed to complete local sourcing, including heritage pigs from a local operation, and to cooking foods by traditional methods. It pays off big, with smoky, succulent pork, even though he is an Auburn fan. The rest of the menu is inventive but also fiercely old school in essentials. He fries with lard, friends. Most of you have never had food fried in lard. Some remember when McDonald’s cooked fries with beef tallow and were really good, but lard turns it up to 11. So good and, believe it or not, it’s so good for you.

Sloppy Mama’s in Arlington was a pioneer of good barbecue in the Washington area, and their pork easily earned a spot in the Best Barbecue Places in the Washington, DC, Area list. The pork is very good, lightly smoked with oak, and it’s ultra-fresh. Joe Neumann and his team chop it up as they serve it, so the meat never dries out. Neumann also offers other meats and some pleasant surprises — I once got some barbacoa there — and the best commercial pimiento cheese I’ve ever tasted.

BEST BRISKET

The Redwood Smoke Shack in Norfolk has a lot of gimmick sandwiches, including one on a Krispy Kreme doughnut and a 2 1/2 pound assortment of meats. The Redwood Smoke Shack’s brisket doesn’t need gimmicks. It’s good, and that’s made it a magnet for Texans in Norfolk — that and their delicious corn puddin’ — enough that postmaster Bob Roberts opened a second location over in Virginia Beach.

I’ve already named Ruthie’s All-Day in Arlington to my Best Barbecue Places in the Washington, DC, Area list for brisket. It’s flat good, with a good smoke flavor, and even lean end meat is as tender and flavorful as the moist end meat at most places Ruthie’s also offers a full menu for three meals, and Matt Hill and Todd Salvatore maintain a high quality across a very diverse range of foods.

ZZQ is an acclaimed spot that serves Texas-style barbecue in Richmond. (Photo via ZZQ/Facebook)

Chris Fultz and his team have made ZZQ Texas Craft Barbecue a real star in Richmond. This really is Texas barbecue that would win prizes in Texas, it’s so good. They even make burnt ends the traditional way, without building the burn around sugar: just salt, pepper, and heat. And everything else is good as well, except the collards which include … not just sugar but molasses. Nothing under the sun is perfect.

BEST RIBS

Well, that’s nine so far. I’m not averse to listing 11 or 12 places in a Top Ten list. How many teams are in the Big Ten now? Or the Pac 12? I’ve been discussing the ribs in Alabama lately, however, and it’s made me a tough grader. So far, only one Virginia place gets the laurel wreath: The Original Ronnie’s BBQ in Henrico County outside Richmond. Ronnie Logan and his extended family — four siblings and three offspring — make first class ribs, easily the best I’ve had in Virginia. And you won’t believe their green beans.

The Original Ronnie’s BBQ outside Richmond serves incredible ribs. (Photo via The Original Ronnie’s BBQ)

The list, like all such lists, is subject to change. I’ll be trying more ribs in the future. Places rise and fall, and I’m sure there are places I haven’t tried: two are on my to-eat list. And I need to get back to Shaffer’s BBQ and Market to give their meat a fair chance. (Their sides may be the best in Virginia, and beyond.) And I need to go back to Smokin’ Jarhead for their ribs. I’m especially hopeful that more barbecue places will open serving good honest old school barbecue.

John Tanner
Founder, John Tanner's Barbecue Blog

—Raikes Beef Co. offers 100% Nebraska-born and raised American Wagyu and Angus beef shipped directly from their farm to your door. Use the promo code SMOKESHEET for 15% off all online orders. CLICK TO ORDER HERE.—

Cruz BBQ Company in Maypearl, Texas received praise in a new dispatch from Texas Monthly’s Daniel Vaughn. (Photo by Cruz BBQ Company / Facebook)

HOT OFF THE PRESS

In a new review, Texas Monthly BBQ editor Daniel Vaughn writes about Cruz BBQ Company in Maypearl. While the food is good and unique with its charcoal-smoker approach, owner and pitmaster Paul Cruz’s personal story might be just as worthy. For years, Cruz battled personal demons, including drug and alcohol abuse, before finding faith and his way into the BBQ world. READ MORE.

In a sad bit of news, the owners behind the Kerlin BBQ food truck in east Austin said it would be permanently closing its business on Sept 10. The lot where the truck sits is being sold was the primary reason for shutting down. On the plus side, the owners plan to focus on their side business Kerlaches — “a restaurant where their smoked meat and barbecue are stuffed inside their homemade kolache dough.” READ MORE.

Westword has updated its list of the 10 best BBQ joints in the Denver area. READ MORE.

ADDITIONAL READS

In The Manual, pitmaster and BBQ Brawl winner Erica Blaire Roby reveals how to serve the perfect live-fire meal with some easy tips.

Creative New Orleans pitmaster Shannon Bingham will soon lead the kitchens at craft brewery Brewery Saint X and barbecue restaurant Devil Moon Barbecue.

Fourth generation pitmaster Sloan Rinaldi is bringing craft barbecue to Kingwood with her highly rated joint Texas Q.

ifty Texas BBQ is one of the most notable spots for BBQ in the D.C. area.—

WATCH

‘Low and Slow': 2Fifty Texas BBQ's Approach to the Best Barbecue in the DC Area — NBC4 Washington
During the pandemic, owners Fernando González and Debby Portillo expanded their business from a farmer’s market to a brick-and-mortar in Riverdale Park, just outside Washington, D.C. News4’s Eun Yang learned what’s behind their success. WATCH HERE.

LISTEN

An Introduction to the Five Basic Tastes — Foodiot Podcast
Susie Bulloch of Hey Grill Hey joins hosts Denny, Todd, and Lloyd of the Foodiot Podcast to discuss the five basic tastes (bitter, salty, sour, sweet, and umami). Things get spicy as Susie and the guys debate how to categorize things that aren't flavors, like minty and... spicy. LISTEN HERE.
 

READ

Weber’s Greatest Hits: 125 Classic Recipes for Every Grill— Jamie Purviance
In the ultimate gift for every griller, from beginner to veteran, Weber rated, debated, and curated its entire recipe collection, with help from its most enthusiastic fans. Here in one gorgeous package are the ultimate go-to recipes for every occasion. The book includes all-new photography, fun stories from Weber’s rich and often hilarious history, and special features such as the Top Ten Grilling Dos and Don’ts. ORDER HERE.

Create delicious, tender pork steaks with unbelievable flavor following this recipe from Lauren Nagel of Bon Appeteach. (Photo via Bon Appeteach)

Smoked Pork Steaks

By Bon Appeteach

This easy-to-follow recipe uses your pellet smoker or charcoal grill to create deliciously tender, fall-off-the-bone smoked BBQ pork steaks. If you're looking to save money on a smaller cut of pork, save time, and yield a normal amount of food, then this pork steak recipe is truly ideal.

Learn more about Southside Market Barbeque.

—A lot of big barbecue events are happening this fall, including the American Royal. (Photo by Wai Chan)—

September 10, 2022: Pig Island NYC — Staten Island, New York
Pig Island NYC will celebrate its 13th year on September 10, 2022, at Snug Harbor on Staten Island. Join in for all-inclusive food and drink, from all-star pitmasters and chefs who will be serving up delicious porky goodness, as well as local breweries, distilleries, and cideries. Top chefs will compete for the best dishes and event-goers reap the benefits. Expect a ton of amazing eats and a great place to picnic with friends and family for the day. BUY TICKETS HERE.

September 10, 2022: Troubadour Festival — Tyler, Texas
Troubadour Festival is a multi-location Texas BBQ & Music experiential festival that pays homage to the traveling songwriter and the worldwide popularity of the Texas barbecue scene. The September 10 edition of the fest takes place in Downtown Tyler, Texas, for the first Troubadour Festival happening in East Texas. Tyler's inaugural Troubadour Festival will bring together more than 40 of the most celebrated barbecue joints from across Texas, and you’ll be able to scarf all that down while listening to some of the premier names in country music. MORE INFO HERE.

September 17, 2022: Second Annual Pitmaster Party: Wild Game Edition — Fulshear, Texas
Historic Dozier’s BBQ in Fulshear will host their Second Annual Pitmaster Party: Wild Game Edition on Saturday, Sept 17th, from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The outdoor event will feature top pitmasters from the Houston area and beyond, benefiting the Fulshear Police Foundation. Dozier’s pitmaster Jim Buchanan is rounding up some of his close friends in the industry, including Feges BBQ, Blood Bros., Roegels Barbecue, Brotherton’s, Harlem Road, Tejas Chocolate & Barbecue, Burnt Bean Co., Interstellar BBQ, and more for what should be an unforgettable BBQ event. Coinciding with the start of hunting season, the top pitmasters each will offer a dish featuring wild game meat. MORE INFO HERE.

Sept 28 - Oct 2, 2022: American Royal World Series of Barbecue — Kansas City, Kansas
The American Royal World Series of barbecue is the largest BBQ competition in the country. On top of a massive KCBS competition with roughly 500 teams from around the country, this signature Kansas City event includes public-facing activities, including live music, delicious BBQ and local food, a full lineup of kids activities, and a vendor fair authentic to Kansas City and BBQ enthusiasts. Read our 2021 recap of the event to learn more about the experience. MORE INFO HERE.

October 14-15, 2022: The Jack — Lynchburg, Tennessee
It's rare that whiskey-making takes a backseat to much of anything in Lynchburg, Tennessee. But “The Jack,” one of the top KCBS competitions annually, is an exception. For one weekend in October, barbecue competitors from around the world converge to wield their grilling and smoking expertise. On top of the competition, other events are held to provide a lively and fun atmosphere for families and friends. MORE INFO HERE.

October 22, 2022: GrillGirl X GrillGrate Women’s Grilling Clinic — Fort Myers, Florida
Grill Girl Robyn Lindars is teaming up with GrillGrate to host a Women’s Grilling Clinic at the Robot Ranch in Fort Myers, Florida. The goal of the Women’s Grilling Clinic is to teach women the fundamentals of grilling in a relaxed “Girls Night Out” Atmosphere. This class is for any woman who wants to learn how to grill, learn different styles of grilling, and try new recipes to remake at home. In addition to Robyn, instructors include Erica Blaire Roby, Sunny Moody, Brooke Lewis, and Ron Dimpflmaier. MORE INFO HERE.

October 22, 2022: World Championship Hot Wing Contest and Festival — Memphis, Tennessee
The 2022 World Championship Hot Wing Contest & Festival (WCHWCF) will take place Saturday, October 22 (11 a.m. – 7 p.m.) at Tiger Lane, on the grounds of the Liberty Bowl Memorial Stadium in Memphis, TN. This will mark the 20th year of the festival, previously known as the Southern Hotwing Festival. Whether you like your wings grilled, smoked or fried, with seasonings that range from sweet to savory to exotic, there’s sure to be something for everyone. The event will benefit The Ronald McDonald House Charities of Memphis and will also include fun, family friendly activities such as the Kids Korner, the popular Corn Hole Tournament, and the Wing Eating Contest. MORE INFO HERE.

November 11-13, 2022: KCBS World Invitational — Gadsden, Alabama
The Kansas City Barbeque Society’s biggest event for the rest of the year is the fourth annual KCBS World Invitational Barbeque Competition. The event will bring together top champion pitmasters to compete for the title of “KCBS World Champion.” This event will feature three full days of contests and events. There will be both an open contest and a Master Series contest. Plus, backyard teams will be eligible to compete in the open against Master Series teams without impacting their Backyard status. MORE INFO HERE.

November 18-20, 2022: Jacksonville BBQ Fest — Jacksonville, Florida
During the past few years, Florida has become an even bigger attraction for barbecue restaurants and events. The Jacksonville BBQ Fest, held at TIAA Bank Field (where the Jaguars play), is one event that brings barbecue fans together to get a taste of great local and national barbecue bites. On top of the top-notch food, there’s also live music and great drinks to enjoy. To get a taste of this event, be sure to read Ed Reilly’s recap of the Denver BBQ Festival, which is hosted by the same organizers. MORE INFO HERE.

November 19, 2022: Holy Smokes BBQ Festival — Charleston, South Carolina
Aaron Siegel and Taylor Garrigan of Home Team BBQ, Anthony DiBernardo of Swig & Swine, and Robert Moss, the Contributing BBQ Editor for Southern Living, have invited the leaders of the barbecue community from around the country to come together in Charleston on November 19th, 2022 at Riverfront Park. With live music playing on stage against the backdrop of the Cooper River, guests will have a unique opportunity to sample a range of barbecue styles from the group of renowned pitmasters. Expect to taste slow-smoked whole hog, pork and beef ribs, Texas-style brisket, smoked sausage, BBQ tacos, and much, much more. MORE INFO HERE.

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