Two Impressive Arlington BBQ Joints (And a Few Hard Truths)

This week’s guest article is written by John Tanner, founder of John Tanner’s Barbecue Blog. John is based in Washington, D.C., and has been writing about barbecue joints, events, and notable people in BBQ since 2015. Today we are featuring his latest dispatch, where he ate at two great restaurants in Arlington, Virginia with The Smoke Sheet co-founder Sean Ludwig. If you would like to write a guest article for The Smoke Sheet, please get in touch.

I enjoy my time relaxing by the Chesapeake Bay, where I help take care of our granddaughters and cultivate a small garden plot. But when the need arises, I put aside my plow and serve the public good. 

I recently got the word that Sean Ludwig of NYC BBQ, the definitive guide to barbecue in that metropolis, and The Smoke Sheet, the national guide to barbecue places, trends, and events, was in town. He wanted to eat some barbecue, so I girded my loins, hopped in the car, and met him at Smokecraft BBQ in Arlington, Virginia. It was a good choice for our first stop of the night.

Sean lives in Jersey City but works remotely for a D.C. outfit. Sean recently married (first anniversary!), bought a house, and is on the verge of fatherhood. With two very active blogs and lots of associated travel, you can see that Sean is a busy guy. He’s also organized, energetic, even more affable, and highly skilled. Sort of like I used to be, except for the organization part. He also has great attention to detail, something I’ve always avoided. Here we are with the Smokecraft pitmaster, Andrew Darnelle.

Writer John Tanner, Smokecraft’s Andrew Darnelle, and The Smoke Sheet’s Sean Ludwig chatted during a visit to Smokecraft.

Smokecraft is just off Clarendon Boulevard near the Clarendon Metro stop. To give you an idea of the area, Smokecraft shares a block with another restaurant, a coffee shop, and three exercise studios. Befitting the neighborhood, Smokecraft is roomy and modern, but with a good, relaxed feel.

Sean and I got right down to work. Sean suggested that we get the “Whole Lotta’ Cue” platter, which includes all of Smokecraft’s main meats and four sides, enough to feed a small village for a good three days. See for yourself.

We ate the Whole Lotta Cue platter with a little bit of everything at Smokecraft. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)

Make that five days. It was enough food that Sean and I actually had to move to a table for four. Starting at the bottom row and working your way up, you see smoked turkey and smoked chicken. Next come jalapeño cheese sausages, collards, and slaw, followed by pork, street corn, and brisket. The top row offers pork belly, smoked cauliflower, and ribs. There were also some corn muffins. We also had before us Smokecraft’s many sauces, my favorites of which were the aptly named Tangy and Spicy sauces. There also were the usual sweet sauces and a pineapple bourbon sauce that sounds atrocious but actually tasted good.

Let’s work our way back through the food. The smoked turkey was good, and the smoked chicken was excellent. The chicken was a huge thigh and leg with a fruit (pineapple bourbon) glaze. I, being sugar-phobic when it comes to meat, could pass on the glaze, but the chicken itself was succulent, juicy, and rich with flavor from the dark meat and the smoke.

The sausage also was very good, meaty and spicy, and the collards were a home run. They had not only meat flavor but some pepper as well — enough to get your attention but not enough to hurt you. Is there any better in the area? If there are, I haven’t had them. The slaw and brisket were also good.

One of John’s favorite items at Smokecraft was the smoky pork belly. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)

But you really need to visit Smokecraft to order the pork belly. It was meaty and utterly delicious, with a flavorful ribbon of fat rather than a ribbon of pork dwarfed by fat. The smoked cauliflower wasn’t smoky — when the server came we noted that and he brought us some Brussels sprouts — but it tasted pretty good, and it was a hit the next day. And the ribs were good as well.

Let’s talk about the pork. The server had told us that the pork might run out, but freshly cooked pork would be ready soon. Fine with us. The Whole Lotta Cue would take us a while, so they could bring it when it’s ready. The message got lost at some point in transmission from person to person, and what we got were the scrapings of the old pork, a lot of nice bark but overdone inside meat. 

The item was not a hit, and it illustrates something I want to talk about. Even if they don’t show it, many restaurants are still facing insurmountable problems these days.

Andrew Darnell, the genius behind Smokecraft, came by to greet customers after the last batch of meat was out of the smoker, and he stopped by our table. He looked at the virtually untouched pork on our tray, and he told the staff to get us some fresh pork.

The fresh pulled pork was much better than the first pulled pork served at Smokecraft. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)

Now that’s good pork. Real good pork. That’s the reason Andrew’s team finished high in the Jack Daniels Barbecue championship last year. But how with labor force participation so low and restaurants poaching others’ employees, how can you keep a well-functioning staff that makes sure things don’t fall through the cracks?

For that matter, how do you get people comfortable with going out again after two years of isolation, two years spending their work days alone on Zoom, two years or more doing their shopping alone on their computers? How do you overcome supply chain problems? And if you can get any, the meat prices are soaring. These problems are universal, especially for independent restaurants. It’s worse in Arlington, where rents soared immediately when Amazon announced its new headquarters there with lots of highly paid employees. The rent is up, but it will be two years before any Amazon employees arrive.

These issues are hardly unique to Smokecraft. They’re pervasive. I hear of the same problems everywhere, and I see them first hand. I experience the decline in service regularly throughout the service industry, with hotels and restaurants alike. Servers try to cover too many tables, and many servers are new hires with no experience and little motivation. Experienced, motivated servers are treasures indeed.

Smokecraft has a well-stocked bar and lots of trophies from barbecue competitions. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)

Sean and I talked with Andrew about his particular challenges. I truly admire the way Andrew, like some other restauranteurs with whom I talked, can manage to remain so friendly and cheerful amid so much economic turbulence. A local guy from Bethesda, Andrew is working hard and thoughtfully to attract workers and customers. One way is through a good cocktail menu. (At least it looks good. I was the one driving, but I recognized some old friends behind the bar.) 

Smokecraft has a good choice of beers too, and menu items for the gluten-free and vegetarians are numerous and helpfully flagged on Smokecraft’s expansive menu. There’s something for everyone. And Andrew knows barbecue and is passionate about making the best. He’s won awards and does a remarkable job.

I hope you’ll go to locally-owned restaurants in your area. I hope that if you’re near Arlington, you’ll go to Smokecraft. It’s a great place considering the wonders Andrew works within the limits of a Southern Pride smoker as he dreams of things returning to an even keel so he can get one of the big boys. Andrew is devoted to his craft and very good at it. You’ll enjoy your meal at Smokecraft. All you have to do is go. No need to thank me.

Ruthie’s All-Day in Arlington is a great restaurant with a diverse menu. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)

After Smokecraft, we headed to Ruthie’s All-Day next. I’ve reported on Ruthie’s a couple of times here and here. It’s a top BBQ spot in the Washington D.C. area, and it was one of only six places I listed among the best barbecue places in the Washington area. I suspect that we are the only two people ever to go to a second restaurant after ordering the Whole Lotta Cue platter.

Ruthie’s is a nice place, attractive inside and out. And they do a remarkably broad range of dishes well. Sean and I sat outside on their large shaded patio and discussed the menu. I jumped all over the Brunswick stew. And if you’re going to get Brunswick stew, you’ll need cornbread. But what else? We also grabbed wings, macaroni and cheese, and Brussels sprouts.

So how was it? The Brunswick stew was delicious. Ruthie’s adds some smoked sausage, a genius move. Adding smoked sausage is usually a genius move. It could have used some more vegetables, some butter beans, especially, to be a proper stew rather than a soup, but the flavor was terrific.

The cornbread at Ruthie’s is a revelation. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)

And the cornbread! My heart be still! This has to be … the best cornbread in the D.C. metro area. Made in a cast iron pan, as all cornbread should be, it arrived hot and fragrant and lovely with the butter melting over it. Show me a better in the area. I challenge you.

The wings came with ribbons of celery. I guessed that the ribbons might be leeks based on their appearance, but celery certainly makes sense. I still can’t see how they got such wide flat strips from celery. The wings came with a choice of sauces — Buffalo, white, blue cheese, and ranch. The sauces were very good, as were the wings themselves.

The mac and cheese and Brussels sprouts at Ruthie’s were quite good. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)

Sean started in on the Brussels sprouts while I focused on the mac and cheese. It was good church dinner macaroni and cheese, and I loved it. Sean reported that the Brussels sprouts were excellent, and they also had that salty, tangy flavor of the fish sauce used in many Southeast Asian recipes. That intrigued me, so I had a taste. Sean was right. These were top-notch sprouts, better than Brussels sprouts have any right to be.

As a grand finale, we got some butterscotch pudding. I was slipping into a food coma, but I did muster the strength of will to try some and, thus energized, try some more. And some more. This was some good pudding.

The visit to Ruthie’s was capped off with a tasty butterscotch pudding. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)

My good friend, Dan Kenney of the Coach4aday blog, suggested I write some posts about midnight snacks. It was after 10:00 pm when we trundled out. That’s about as close as I’m likely to come to a midnight snack. But whoever, wherever, and whenever you are, you owe it to yourself to go to Ruthie’s All-Day. I hope to see you there.

John Tanner
Founder, John Tanner’s Barbecue Blog

—Sauce King NYC, a virtual event from Food Karma Projects, is back for its third year. Using judges, Sauce King NYC determines the best barbecue sauces, hot sauces, marinades, and more from around the country. The competition is now accepting shelf-stable sauce and condiment submissions through August 20th for the 2022 competition. Enter your best sauce in the competition today!—

—KCBS CEO Emily Detwiler is stepping down from her role at the end of July.—

HOT OFF THE PRESS

Kansas City Barbeque Society CEO Emily Detwiler has announced she will be leaving the position at the end of July to pursue another opportunity. Detwiler has served as CEO for the past three years and worked to grow the organization even through the pandemic. “I have truly enjoyed leading the Kansas City Barbeque Society,” Detwiler said in a statement. “I will continue to remain a Lifetime Member of KCBS and will serve the organization as I’m able. I’m proud of the work we’ve done together and the achievements that have come from them.” READ HERE.

Pitmaster Elliott Moss has parted ways with his longtime restaurant Buxton Hall in Asheville, North Carolina but will continue to play a part in the barbecue scene in NC. "I’m heart broken to say that I’m officially officially no longer involved or apart of Buxton Hall BBQ or Buxton Chicken Palace," he writes on Instagram. "My partners and I have decided to part ways, and I have sold my interest in the business to them. ... I’m NOT done with BBQ. My passion for BBQ will live on forever. I’ll be doing some BBQ traveling & cooking." READ HERE.

Condé Nast Traveler has compiled an incredible guide to barbecue all around the world, which explores tasty traditions in more than 20 countries. While we normally focus on American barbecue in this newsletter, this article makes it easy to take a glance at other how other cultures have embraced cooking various meats and fish over fire, including Brazilian churrasco and Japanese yakitori. “It's interesting that such diverse grilling traditions bring us together under the umbrella term of barbecue,” author Adrian Miller says in the story. “It's just another example that there's room at the cookout for everyone.” READ HERE.

While we all might have a favorite barbecue sauce at a local joint, sometimes you have to reach for what’s on the grocery store shelf. Washington Post food reporter Emily Heil assembled a panel to taste test 13 of the most popular barbecue sauces you can find around the country in many stores, including Sweet Baby Ray’s, Bull’s Eye, Stubbs, Trader Joe’s, Sticky Fingers, and more. The top pick by the panel will surprise you. READ HERE.
 

ADDITIONAL READS

Pitmaster and friend of The Smoke Sheet Erica Blaire Roby joined TODAY to share her creative recipes for steak sushi and pulled pork sliders.

University of Richmond chemistry professor Kristine Nolin has written a fascinating article about the chemistry behind barbecue.

Thrillist outlines nine amazing Texas barbecue fusion crossovers worth trying.

Here are 11 places to get good barbecue in Charlotte, North Carolina.

Richard’s Bar-B-Que in Salisbury, NC is closing its doors after 42 years of food service.

Texas Monthly reports that Martin House Brewing has created a new barbecue sauce–flavored beer.

Oklahoma's Clark Crew BBQ has a new deal with an out-of-state partner to spur growth.

Tasting Table outlines 12 types of barbecue sauce and when to use them.

EatingWell outlines six cheap proteins that are worth considering for your summer BBQ.

ikes Beef Co. offers 100% Nebraska-born and raised American Wagyu and Angus beef shipped directly from their farm to your door. Use the promo code SMOKESHEET for 15% off all online orders. CLICK TO ORDER HERE.—

—In this episode of The Daytripper, Chet Garner stops at some of the very best barbecue joints in Texas.—

WATCH

Texas BBQ Road Trip — The Daytripper

Ready to eat some of the best BBQ in Texas? Chet Garner and crew travel to Snow’s BBQ and look back at some of their favorites like Louie Mueller Barbeque, Pecan Lodge BBQ, Kreuz BBQ, and many others in this special full episode of The Daytripper. WATCH HERE.

LISTEN

Our Whole Hog Education — Tales from the Pits

Though Tales from the Pits podcast hosts Bryan and Andrew are huge fans of both traditional and modern Texas barbecue, they have come to love the whole hog barbecue that is found in different states in the American South. Their curiosity developed after pitmasters in Houston began offering whole hog barbecue specials over the years. In 2018, they went on an ambitious tour through Tennessee, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia to sample and learn more about wood coal-fired whole pig cookery.  At the same time, whole hog barbecue started to gain popularity in Texas. In this episode, they talk about the importance of experiencing the history of long-time whole hog barbecue establishments. Bryan and Andrew have planned yet another trip through the south to revisit many of these places as well as try some spots they haven’t previously been to starting Labor day weekend this year. LISTEN HERE.

READ

Grilling with Golic and Hays: Operation BBQ Relief Cookbook — Mike Golic and Stan Hays

Champion pitmaster and CEO and co-founder of Operation BBQ Relief Stan Hays joins forces with NFL veteran and former ESPN Radio host Mike Golic in this celebration of the connection of BBQ and sports. Good for the stomach, better for the soul—quality comfort barbecue and side dishes that reflect the character and warmth of the national nonprofit Operation BBQ Relief. The 80+ recipes from your favorite sports stars, pitmasters, and chefs combine the worlds through the power of food. Grilling with Golic and Hays: Operation BBQ Relief Cookbook aims to inspire hope and compassion through the stories of overcoming challenges that are present in both the athletic world and the work of Operation BBQ Relief. Armed with a caravan of cooks, mobile pits, kitchens, and volunteers, Operation BBQ Relief delivers support through hot meals in times of need, feeding first responders and communities affected by natural disasters, along with year-round efforts to fight hunger through various programs. Each of the 80+ comforting recipes—from appetizers to ribs, and from seafood to desserts—will include a short biography of each sports star or chef contributor.  ORDER HERE.

—These delicious Smoked Shotgun Shells are one of the latest crazes in backyard barbecue.—

Smoked Shotgun Shells

By Andersons Smoke Show

Smoked Shotgun Shells are sausage-stuffed manicotti shells and are one of the latest crazes in backyard barbecue. This recipe from Andersons Smoke Show is a quick and easy appetizer recipe that you can make in about an hour and a half with just a few simple ingredients. Between the bacon, sausage, rub, and sauce, these shells have a delicious sweet, spicy, and smoky flavor.

Learn more about Southside Market Barbeque.

—A lot of big barbecue events are happening in 2022. Eat up!—

August 4-7, 2022: Windy City Smokeout — Chicago, Illinois
Get ready for beer, BBQ, and country, because the Windy City Smokeout BBQ & Country Music Festival is returning to Chicago soon. The Windy City Smokeout is one of the largest barbecue festivals in the U.S., with this year’s edition bringing a stunningly good lineup together of veterans and newcomers. Read our 2019 Windy City Smokeout recap to learn about the experience. MORE INFO HERE.

September 2-4, 2022: Pinehurst Barbecue Festival — Village of Pinehurst, North Carolina
The Pinehurst Barbecue Festival, presented by Pinehurst Resort, US Foods and The Pilot, is a “Celebration of Taste and Tradition” featuring award-winning pitmasters from across North Carolina in one of the most picturesque settings in the entire state. The three-day event, staged in and around the historic Village of Pinehurst, offers a unique culinary sampling experience of various barbecue meats and traditional sides. MORE INFO HERE.

September 10, 2022: Pig Island NYC — Staten Island, New York
Pig Island NYC will celebrate its 13th year on September 10, 2022, at Snug Harbor on Staten Island. Join in for all-inclusive food and drink, from all-star pitmasters and chefs who will be serving up delicious porky goodness, as well as local breweries, distilleries, and cideries. Top chefs will compete for the best dishes and event-goers reap the benefits. Expect a ton of amazing eats and a great place to picnic with friends and family for the day. BUY TICKETS HERE.

Sept 28 - Oct 2, 2022: American Royal World Series of Barbecue — Kansas City, Kansas
The American Royal World Series of barbecue is the largest BBQ competition in the country. On top of a massive KCBS competition with roughly 500 teams from around the country, this signature Kansas City event includes public-facing activities, including live music, delicious BBQ and local food, a full lineup of kids activities, and a vendor fair authentic to Kansas City and BBQ enthusiasts. Read our 2021 recap of the event to learn more about the experience. MORE INFO HERE.

Sept 30 - Oct 2, 2022: Q in the Lou — St. Louis, Missouri
The annual Q in the Lou is happening again this fall! Don’t miss this chance to grab an ice-cold brew and sample pure smoked bliss from award-winning pitmasters from across the country. The event is held nearby the St. Louis Arch and held the final weekend of regular season play for the St. Louis Cardinals. MORE INFO HERE.

November 11-13, 2022: KCBS World Invitational — Gadsden, Alabama
The Kansas City Barbeque Society’s biggest event for the rest of the year is the fourth annual KCBS World Invitational Barbeque Competition. The event will bring together top champion pitmasters to compete for the title of “KCBS World Champion.” This event will feature three full days of contests and events. There will be both an open contest and a Master Series contest. Plus, backyard teams will be eligible to compete in the open against Master Series teams without impacting their Backyard status. MORE INFO HERE.

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