Whole Hog Still the Star at Rodney Scott’s in Charleston
This week’s guest article is written by Bryan Suddith, a storyteller and foodie raised in Southwest Ohio. He has been known to drive hundreds of miles for lunch, and he’s also lived in Kentucky, Louisiana, and Florida. Bryan is the producer of Story Slam Dayton and a KCBS Certified BBQ Judge. Bryan enjoys long road trips, summer nights on patios with friends telling stories, and sharing good food (usually BBQ). Below is the second part of his recent trip to South Carolina. (Read the first part here.)
If you have ever been to Lockhart Texas and visited Kreuz Market, you know the story about the team carrying the fire from their old location across town to the new location back in 1999. When I visited Lockhart, I made that walk, from what is now Smitty's BBQ, where Kreuz Market started and walked the path to the new. That is what it felt like leaving Hemingway on the road south to Charleston.
I was tracking the evolution of South Carolina BBQ from its origins in Hemingway to what Rodney Scott had created that earned him the coveted James Beard Award.
Rodney Scott prepares whole hog at his Charleston restaurant. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)
I was first in line at Rodney Scott's restaurant on a Friday morning. I explained to a few folks that I had been in Hemingway the day before. That declaration was met with blank stares. They were here in Rodney's flagship restaurant and had no idea what living history was a mere 90 miles north of them. The others in line didn't know where I had come from the day before or where Rodney learned his craft.
Rodney Scott's Whole Hog BBQ is new. The food scene in Charleston is southern and hip, Rodney's brings a humble charm to the emerging foodie scene in Chucktown. The dining room is fresh. Bright. Windows fill three walls. It feels new. It's tourist ready. There’s a two-page laminated menu. It's an upgrade. If Hemingway and Scott's BBQ is my old rusty, somewhat leaky, but always reliable Jeep Wrangler, Rodney Scott's in Charleston is a new shiny 2022 model with remote start, Bluetooth stereo, and power windows.
Rodney Scott’s Whole Hog BBQ in Charleston is a new-school BBQ joint with old techniques at its heart. (Photo by Bryan Suddith)
Old Jeeps and new Jeeps are different, but you recognize them the same. That's true about Scott's BBQ and Rodney's place. The likeness is hard to miss. Behind Rodney Scott's there is a woodpile of splits of greenwood. The pit room has similarities too. The fireplace in the corner is intentional in design, shortening the walk from fire to pits. Fresh wood on top, coals on the bottom, a shovel and broom resting nearby similar to Hemingway. The pits, all built for the 175lb whole hogs, fill the room. Whole hog is still the star of the show here. Wings, ribs, chicken, and brisket are just very supporting characters, but the room is built around the pits. The gas-fired Ole Hickory tucked into the corner opposite the fireplace almost looks out of place, almost an added afterthought just so they could cook a few briskets every day.
I am still surprised at the hospitality in the pits. I love talking with the guys and gals who are carrying the coals, laying out the protein, and doing the hot and sweaty work. This was different, watching them pull pork from the last hog of the day, a long string from the belly being offered to me. It's almost beyond my ability to explain how special it is to be able to enjoy that bite in the pit, shoulder to shoulder with the cook. In the pits, great BBQ is always accompanied by a good story.
The fireplace in the pit room at Rodney Scott’s BBQ is used to burn coals for whole hog barbecue. (Photo by Ryan Cooper)
All the great BBQ spots have a story. Spend time with Miguel Vidal at Valentina's Tex-Mex or Brad Orrison at The Shed, and you are taken in by their stories. Ever chatted with Joe or Mike Pearce from Slaps? They've got stories. I love the stories and that is what I was looking for in South Carolina. I wanted to know and understand South Carolina barbecue.
And I found it. But it took a drive. A 90-mile drive from modest Hemingway down route 41 to Charleston.
Rodney’s dad isn't around anymore to tell the story, and Rodney wasn't around that day in Charleston to tell it. But I could talk to the men who still cook it the way Rosie did and the way Rodney still does. And I could eat it. And I did.
Whole hog is different, with pieces of shoulder, bits from the belly, and the ham and cheek all in one bite. The hint of sweet and tangy from the vinegar. Just a touch of smoke from the coals. The sauce, the beans, the smell of smoke in the air.
The food at Rodney Scott’s BBQ is served to a broad demographic of Charleston diners. (Photo by Ryan Cooper)
Rodney Scott’s barbecue is elevated. He is serving his food on a tray the way you'd expect in Houston, Kansas City, or Austin. Not in the styrofoam box-like back in Hemingway. He also offers turkey sandwiches, fried fish sandwiches, hushpuppies, and salads. The menu aims to satisfy the broad demographic that visits his spots in Charleston, Birmingham, Atlanta, and soon Nashville.
I watched a lady with her salad and wondered how that happened. This is the pinnacle of South Carolina BBQ and she opted for the chopped salad.
You can always find the story. But it takes time. It's not printed on the menu. It's out back hanging around the pits. It's found chatting with the ladies on the porch. It's in the conversation while waiting in line. The Scott story is fascinating.
Whole hog typically takes more than 16 hours of time to prepare. (Photo by Ryan Cooper)
I am thankful that Mrs. Ella Scott took the time to talk with me on the porch of her store in Hemingway. I am grateful that the fellas invited me into the pits in Charleston to show me around. They let me poke around in the walk-in, ask questions about hog weight, post-cook yield, cook times, hold times, recipes, and for them sharing fresh pulls from the whole hog.
Rodney Scott was a kid who grew up in the pits in the shadow of his father. He found his own way of cooking whole hog barbecue in the tried and true fashion, but he took it to the city, making sure that the classic, old school South Carolina Barbecue holds its place among America's other great regional barbecue styles. I'm thankful he did.
Bryan Suddith
Storyteller
Thanks to our sponsor DennyMike's, which offers outstanding seasonings and rubs for every situation. Learn more about DennyMike's here.
—It’s All Good Barbecue and More in Temple, Texas was destroyed by a fire last week. (Photo via GoFundMe)—
HOT OFF THE PRESS
It's All Good Barbecue and More — a popular Temple, Texas BBQ joint — was lost to a fire last week, reports 6 News. More than 25 emergency personnel helped put out the fire, as stated by Temple Fire. When the fire started, two employees were inside and both were able to get out with no injuries, according to Temple Fire. A GoFundMe has also been started by the daughter of the restaurant’s founder Tony Wells with the hope of rebuilding it. READ MORE.
Texas Monthly BBQ editor Daniel Vaughn has reviewed Smoke Crafters Barbecue in Mission, which features a lot of fun and creative items alongside traditional fare. “Part of the fun are the birria sausage, served with consommé, and the smoked Italian sausage, though neither were available when I visited,” Vaughn writes. “I tried the jalapeño cheddar variety (made with brisket and pork rib trimmings) in the Tejano Dog, which is served on a toasted hoagie bun and topped with pico de gallo, chipotle mayo, and salsa verde. The juicy sausage snaps with every bite.” READ MORE.
Anne Valdespino of the Orange County Register spoke with famed pitmaster Kevin Bludso about his new cookbook. The book isn’t just a collection of 90 recipes, it’s a compelling memoir. “I was born and raised in Compton, California, with a police officer father and a Black Panther-supporter mother,” the book begins. “Every summer to stay out of trouble, I went to Corsicana, Texas, to work at my granny’s illegal, bootleg BBQ stand.” Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook: A Family Affair in Smoke and Soul will be released on April 12. READ MORE.
For Womens’ History Month, Nancy Loseke of Barbecue Bible has profiled of some of the incredible women of barbecue who have inspired and influenced her, including Tootsie Tomanetz, Susie Bulloch, and more. READ MORE.
ADDITIONAL READS
The Barbecue Bros. explain why the Carolina BBQ Festival could be a game-changer.
The Houston Chronicle’s J.C. Reid explains why brisket prices are so high at your local Texas barbecue joint.
Jacksonville-based BBQ restaurant Jenkins Quality BBQ was recently chosen by the readers of Southern Living as one of the best spots in Florida.
Popular barbecue chain Tops Bar-B-Q is celebrating its 70-year anniversary in Memphis.
Suburban bakery Spilt Milk in Chicago recently hired pitmaster Mike Shaker to help boost their savory game.
Houston’s Goode Company Barbeque will reopen after a two-year hiatus due to the pandemic.
Saveur lists the best barbecue sauces to use as a marinade, for slathering on ribs, or on pretty much anything this summer.
Southside Market’s Taste of Texas BBQ is now shipping nationwide. Place your order now.
—Derrick Walker of Smoke-A-Holics BBQ cooks his Tex-Soul barbecue from the heart. (Photo by Joseph McGregor)—
WATCH
Smoke-A-Holics Pitmaster Derrick Walker — Quest’s Worlds of Wonder
On this episode of Quest’s Worlds of Wonder, host Richard Quest travels to Fort Worth to meet Smoke-A-Holics pitmaster Derrick Walker. Here, Walker is cooking up more than just typical Texas barbecue — he's serving food with soul. “It’s something within the African American culture…we cook from the heart,” says Walker. WATCH HERE.
LISTEN
Michael Johnson of Centex Smokers — Tales from the Pits
Michael Johnson of Centex Smokers had welding in his blood, growing up with a father who was a professional welder. Though Michael originally resisted the idea of making it into a career, he quickly fell back on his years of training to embark on a successful career in the pipeline welding industry. Growing up in Luling, barbecue was always a part of Michael’s life but it wasn’t until later that he’d start down the road of pit building. Through a few lucky breaks and word of mouth about the top-notch quality of his work, Michael’s pit building business grew rapidly and he now makes pits for some of the best in the industry. Tune in to hear Michael’s story and contact him via Facebook and Instagram to start your custom pit build. LISTEN HERE.
READ
The Dutch Oven Camping Cookbook: The Ultimate Campfire Cooking Book for Making Irresistible Outdoor Breakfast, Stews, Meat, Fish, Vegetable, Desserts, and Etc. Recipes — Roger Murphy
The ultimate camping cookbook, for making beef, pork, lamb, poultry, ham, fish, seafood, and other foods. If you are planning an RV trip or camping for a few days, then you need to bring things that should be compact enough and also able to do their job properly. That is why you need adaptable equipment that can be used for multiple tasks such as the Campfire Style Dutch Oven. The book includes photographs of every finished meal, helpful tips, and tricks. ORDER HERE.
—Smoked Pork Tenderloin is flavorful and easy to make in this recipe from Postal Barbecue.—
Smoked Pork Tenderloin
By Postal Barbecue
In this week’s Recipe of the Week, Jabin Postal of Postal Barbecue teaches you how to make the best Smoked Pork Tenderloin recipe on the kettle charcoal grill. This mouthwatering recipe is easy to make and has amazing flavor. Postal serves the tenderloin topped with a delicious Mango Salsa you will definitely want to try. This recipe is going to be a great hit at your next gathering with friends and family and a new summer favorite for sure.
Learn more about Southside Market Barbeque.
—A lot of big barbecue events are planned for 2022. Let's go!—
April 3, 2022: Houston Barbecue Festival — Houston, Texas
Houston's largest barbecue festival will return after a two-year hiatus to the Humble Civic Center Arena Complex. It will feature many of the best barbecue joints in Houston and the surrounding area, including 1701 Barbecue, Blood Bros BBQ, Brett's BBQ Shop, Burns Original BBQ, CorkScrew BBQ, Daddy Duncan's BBQ, Dozier's BBQ, Burro & Bull, Feges BBQ, Gatlin's BBQ, Harlem Road Texas BBQ, J-Bar-M Barbecue, JQ's Tex Mex BBQ, Khoi Barbecue, Killen's Barbecue, Pinkerton's Barbecue,Roegels Barbecue Co, Tejas Chocolate & BBQ, and Truth BBQ. MORE INFO HERE.
April 20, 2022: Brisket King NYC — Brooklyn, New York
If you love brisket (and if you're reading this you probably do), you won’t want to miss Brisket King NYC 2022 in Brooklyn. The event will be held at the huge outdoor space at Pig Beach NYC in Brooklyn. More than 15 NYC-area chefs and pitmasters will be there serving up their takes on brisket and pastrami. MORE INFO HERE.
April 30, 2022: 2nd Annual Jeff Michner BBQ Benefit — Queens, New York
The 2nd Annual Jeff Michner BBQ Benefit will be held at the new Pig Beach NYC location in Queens. It features a huge lineup of some of the best pitmasters in the country, including Chris Lilly, Billy Durney, Tuffy Stone, Sam Jones, Carey Bringle, Amy Mills, Pat Martin, Brad Orrison, Grant Pinkerton, John Wheeler, and many more. If you live in the area and love BBQ, do not miss this. MORE INFO HERE.
May 6-8, 2022: Kansas City BBQ Festival — Kansas City, Missouri
The second year of the “KCQ,” a non-competition barbecue event that celebrates barbecue from Kansas City and many other barbecue towns. It will take place in the parking lot of Arrowhead Stadium and feature barbecue from KC-based mainstays and out-of-towners. Last year’s event featured ‘cue from Joe’s Kansas City, Jones Bar-B-Q, Plowboys BBQ, 2M Smokehouse, Black’s BBQ, Central City BBQ, and Sugarfire Smokehouse, so expect great joints to be involved in 2022. MORE INFO HERE.
May 11-14, 2022: Memphis in May — Memphis, Tennessee
The Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest is a four-day competition held in Memphis, TN. Teams representing the best of barbecue that have been honing their craft for years compete for the title of World Champion and a share of the more than $140,000 in prize money. The Contest features championship pork categories of Ribs, Shoulder, and Whole Hog, as well as the ancillary competitions of Hot Wings, Sauce, and “Anything But Pork.” The 2022 competition will be held in the Memphis Fairgrounds due to construction at its normal home at Tom Lee Park. MORE INFO HERE.
May 22, 2022: Carolina BBQ Festival — Charlotte, North Carolina
The first-ever Carolina BBQ Festival will be held in Charlotte, North Carolina, with some of the biggest names in Carolina barbecue. The event is the creation of Lewis Donald of Sweet Lew’s BBQ in Charlotte and will celebrate three regional styles of Carolina barbecue. The one-day event will include legendary barbecue from Bryan Furman, Buxton Hall’s Elliott Moss, Jon G’s Garren Kirkman, Lexington Barbecue’s Nathan Monk, Southern Smoke BBQ’s Matthew Register, Tay Nelson of Bobby’s Barbecue, and more.. MORE INFO HERE.
June 4, 2022: Troubadour Festival (Georgetown edition) — Georgetown, Texas
After a huge inaugural event in Celina, Texas in 2021, the Troubadour Festival will be expanding to three different event locations this year. The first of these will be in Georgetown, not too far from Austin. Music headliners include The Panhandlers and William Clark Green, and pitmasters will be there from 2M Smokehouse, Blood Bros. BBQ, Interstellar BBQ, J-Bar-M BBQ, Leroy and Lewis, and more. MORE INFO HERE.
June 10-11, 2022: Made for KC BBQ Championship — Kansas City, Missouri
Pitmasters in the Kansas City area are invited to compete in the first annual “Made for KC BBQ Championship,” with a chance to win a combined prize purse totaling $46,000. The Grand Champion will be showcased in a competition BBQ-themed restaurant in the new terminal at the Kansas City International Airport. The Outstanding Hospitality Management Group is partnering with the Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS) and Old World Spices & Seasonings to hold the event on June 10-11, 2022 at Worth Harley-Davidson. MORE INFO HERE.
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