We visited the best BBQ joints in Memphis — here’s what topped our list

The Smoke Sheet

Nov 16, 2018

Memphis is a city with long, rich history and more quality barbecue joints than you can count on two hands. But for some reason, both my Smoke Sheet co-author BBQ Tourist and I had never completed a real Memphis barbecue journey. So this past week, we hit 11 joints in and around Memphis over four days.

During our tour, we drove all over trying to discern what makes Memphis different from other cities with extensive barbecue traditions. The more places we tried, the more we began to think of Memphis as a true crossroads, with hints of vinegar and mustard from the Carolinas, tomato-based sauces from Kansas City, a sampling of beef brisket from Texas, and much more.

Historically, Memphis barbecue precedes many of these other towns, yet the city’s barbecue scene is somewhat underappreciated by the general public. For the uninitiated, Memphis is a pork-centric town. Nearly every joint offers pulled pork, baby back or spare ribs, smoked pork sausage, and pork sandwiches. Most of the t-shirts and merch for sale at the joints feature pigs on them. But there are also distinctive barbecue items we noticed at many Memphis places — BBQ spaghetti, BBQ nachos, cornish hens, and ribs offered “dry or wet.” All of this combines to make Memphis singular.

In Memphis, we ate at, in alphabetical order: Blue City Cafe, Central BBQ, Germantown Commissary, Memphis Barbecue Co., Payne’s Bar-B-Que, Rendezvous, The Bar-B-Q Shop, and Top’s Bar-B-Q. There were other places we wanted to go to but didn’t have time, including Cozy Corner and Interstate, but we will certainly hit them next time.

One of our most memorable visits was at Payne’s, which is located in an old gas station and is so old-school it’s cool. The food was outrageously good, with the pulled pork sandwich (see above) and smoked sausage — both covered in mustard-based slaw — being the standout items. The staff was friendly but didn’t try to go out of their way to bombard us the second they saw our cameras. They just did their work and did everything they could to make the best possible food, including running their 47-year-old pit 24 hours a day.

Another top visit was to Rendezvous, another joint that has a long history. Rendezvous is “hidden” down an old alleyway in downtown Memphis and you descend steps to enter a massive 700+ eatery with a crazy amount of unique memorabilia on the walls. It feels like you’re dining in another era and that’s the point. We were thrilled to chat with Rendezvous co-owner John Vergos on-camera for a documentary being filmed about Rendezvous. John told us the history of the joint and even showed us the right way to eat sausage, cheese, and mustard on crackers. Try the pork ribs with dry rub (see above), the lamb ribs, and the sausage and cheese platter.

Among the other joints we hit, we’d recommend the smoked wings and baby back ribs at Memphis Barbecue Co., the BBQ spaghetti and chopped pork sandwich at The Bar-B-Q Shop, and the homemade banana pudding at Germantown Commissary. You can skip Blues City Cafe and Top’s entirely.

Outside of Memphis, we also ate at Helen’s Bar B Q, B.E. Scott’s Barbecue, and 17th Street Barbecue. Helen’s, located in Brownsville, Tenn., was enjoyable because Helen Turner is a joy to speak with and watch. She works six days a week and manages the extra-smoky pit herself. People from all over the world have visited Helen’s and she has the sign-in book to prove it. If you go, make sure to try the smoked bologna, pulled pork, and polish sausage.

B.E. Scott’s (sometimes called Scott’s-Parker’s) in Lexington, Tenn., is one of just 27 joints in the U.S. still serving whole hog smoked over wood, and they are doing it well. The joint is classic and has a real family store vibe. Get a pulled “middlins” sandwich and a chopped whole hog sandwich while you’re there.

And finally, at 17th Street Barbecue, we were able to sit down with co-owner Amy Mills and try most of the staples that get people from all over the world to travel to 17th Street Barbecue in Murphysboro, Illinois. The pork steak, ribs, chicken, turkey, and sausage with pimento cheese were the best things we tried, and we’ll have to sample the menu even further the next time we go. We were also given a tour by Amy, and we were able to see the amazing collection of competition trophies Mike Mills and the company have collected over the years.

Our trip to Memphis and the surrounding area gave us some new insights into the barbecue world and into the diversity of joints you can find all around the country. We were insanely full after the trip, but it was well worth gaining a few pounds for and we can’t wait to return.

Sean Ludwig (NYC BBQ)
Co-Founder, The Smoke Sheet

Here are the top recent barbecue news stories from around the country:

Eater’s just-published list of “America’s 38 Essential Restaurants” includes San Antonio’s 2M Smokehouse (see the delicious platter above) and Austin’s Franklin Barbecue. Congrats to them and the other 36!
J.C. Reid of the Houston Chronicle thinks the “death of Carolina-style whole-hog barbecue has been greatly exaggerated.” He writes about the renewed popularity of whole-hog barbecue and says one Austin joint will be ready to serve whole hog in December.
Did you know Foo Fighters frontman Dave Grohl has become an “amazing pitmaster?” Uproxx writes about Grohl’s journey in barbecue and his obsession with Carolina pork.
A Netflix-produced movie about family and barbecue began shooting last Saturday in Memphis. Although much of the film will be shot on location, a set is being created to function as the barbecue restaurant that is central to the movie.
If you enjoy wine, Vanessa Price from Grub Street writes about pairing wine with barbecue to elevate and enhance its flavor.
Speaking of wine, Kentucky’s legendary Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn has unveiled a new sweet red wine that pairs perfectly with its award-winning hickory-smoked barbecue.
The idea of developing competitive barbecue teams is gaining popularity with high schools in Texas.
Ty Machado, a 16-year-old prodigy from Texas, is a barbecue phenom who has found success on the competitive cooking circuit.
David Molina, chef at St. Louis’ Sugarfire Smoke House, took first prize in the sandwich competition last weekend at the 2018 World Food Championships in Orange Beach, Alabama with his “Cuban Reuben” sandwich.
Later this year, Cleveland celebrity chef Michael Symon will be opening Mabel’s BBQ on the Las Vegas strip, a well-needed addition to the Vegas food scene.
Local residents in Wauconda, Illinois have recently voiced concerns over a new barbecue restaurant that was recently opened by a nudist religious group.

Here are few BBQ shows, podcasts, or books you should check out this week:

Watch: Kevin’s BBQ Joints - Episode 72, Jeffrey Hobbs - The Slow Bone, Dallas, Texas
In this episode Kevin chats with Jeffrey Hobbs from The Slow Bone in Dallas, Texas about his background, moving from chef to pit boss,the learning curve to cooking BBQ the way he wanted to, and the incredible side dishes and desserts, and award winning fried chicken at The Slow Bone. The one word that continues to come up in the interview is 'delicious' as Jeffrey strives to put out the most delicious food possible. Watch it here.

Listen: The BBQ Central Show - November 6, 2018 - Ask Dr. BBQ
Barbecue Hall of Famer Ray Lampe (better known as Dr. BBQ) joins host Greg Rempe for his monthly segment. The two review the recent opening of the Dr. BBQ restaurant, discussing what’s working, what’s not, what’s hot and what needs tweaked. They also discuss the upcoming Thanksgiving Holiday. Rempe also talks about the school in Texas that is starting a Varsity Competition BBQ Team. Listen to it here.

Read: The MeatEater Fish and Game Cookbook: Recipes and Techniques for Every Hunter and Angler - by Steven Rinella
This highly-anticipated cookbook from Steven Rinella, the host of the television series and podcast MeatEater, is the definitive guide to cooking wild game, fish, and fowl, and features more than 100 new recipes. Buy it here.

November 16-17: Plant City Pig Jam - Plant City, FL
Don't miss out on fabulous food, live entertainment, kids activities, great merchandise, and of course BBQ at the 16th annual Suncoast Credit Union Plant City Pig Jam! Pig Jammers will have BBQ and a lot more to enjoy, including a rock climbing wall, moon walks, vendors, and live music. More info here.

November 16-17: Smoke on the Harbor BBQ Throwdown - Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
The 7th Annual “Smoke on the Harbor BBQ Throwdown” at Charleston Harbor Resort & Marina in Mount Pleasant, South Carolina will be a fully sanctioned national event with the Kansas City Barbeque Society. Public sampling of chicken wings and pork butts will be available for purchase, along with other options for food and refreshments. Enjoy live music performances, a cocktail competition, and a kids area all within a family friendly, casual and fun atmosphere. More info here.

November 17: GrillsGiving - San Antonio, Texas
GrillsGiving is a community-wide barbeque cook-off, music festival and fundraiser held at Mission Park in San Antonio, Texas. BBQ teams and guests enjoy a festival-like atmosphere, kids’ activities and entertainment along the banks of the Mission Reach. Tickets will include live music from the Powell Brothers, Smoke Wagon, and Guy Forsyth. Net proceeds from GrillsGiving benefit the Residential Energy Assistance Partnership. More info here.

November 30 - December 1: Backyard BBQ Skills and Holiday Smoking & Grilling with Heath Riles and Malcom Reed - Tempe, Arizona
Pitmasters Heath Riles and Malcolm Reed are teaming up to offer two instructive and informative barbecue classes at BBQ Island, Inc. in Tempe, Arizona. The Backyard BBQ Skills class on November 30th will cover ribs, brisket, ribeye steak, and side dishes. In the Holiday Smoking & Grilling class on December 1st, Heath and Malcolm will share their secrets to cooking turkey, ham, prime rib, and sides for the holiday season. More info here.

December 9: Houston vs Austin BBQ Throwdown - Austin, Texas
The Houston Barbecue Festival and Friends & Allies Brewing have announced the second annual HOU-ATX BBQ Throwdown featuring top barbecue restaurants from Houston and Austin. They’ll be competing to determine who reigns supreme when it comes to Texas barbecue. Austin joints include Brotherton’s Black Iron Barbecue, LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, and Micklethwait Craft Meats. Houston joints include Beaver’s, Daddy Duncan's BBQ, Harlem Road Texas BBQ, and Victorian's Barbecue. More info here.

All Things Barbecue: Barbecue Smoked Turkey
The holiday season is right around the corner, which means there will be plenty of opportunities to incorporate holiday meats into your barbecue. Chef Tom from All Things Barbecue shares a barbecue turkey recipe that is spatchcocked, brined, injected, and smoked with a mix of cherry and pecan.