Daniel Vaughn on Ranking the 50 Best Texas BBQ Joints
When it comes to American barbecue, few people know it better than Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn. The self-proclaimed “BBQ Snob” has been in his job since 2013 and has written about hundreds of BBQ joints throughout Texas and occasionally other states.
One of the things Vaughn has become known for in his time at Texas Monthly is his work on ranking the Top 50 Barbecue Joints in Texas. This list is a supremely helpful guide for BBQ lovers all over the world who want to visit and try some of the best American barbecue. There is no better-researched list of top restaurants like this for Texas, which has thousands of barbecue joints.
Daniel Vaughn, barbecue editor of Texas Monthly, is one of the most knowledgeable people in American barbecue. (Photo by Ryan Coooper)
The Top 50 Barbecue Joints List is updated every four years. In mid-October, the 2021 edition will be released by Vaughn and his team of barbecue hunters. The list can help put lesser-known barbecue joints on the map and drive a lot of customers their way. It certainly helped drive a lot of traffic to Snow’s Barbecue in Lexington, Texas, which was ranked No. 1 on the 2017 version of the list.
We spoke with Vaughn recently about the challenges of making the list, what’s changed in Texas barbecue in the past four years, and much more. This conversation has been lightly edited for clarity.
The Smoke Sheet (TSS): How has it been trying to finalize the new Top 50 list these past few months?
Daniel Vaughn (DV): The list will come out in mid-October, but you know we've got a whole lot of work to do before that time. We’ve got to finalize the list in time for all of our writers to be able to write their descriptions of each of these barbecue places and for photographers to go out and get photos. So we had to get the list finalized a lot earlier than you might expect, just so we can get all those people on the ground.
TSS: How many people have you been working with to compile and rank the list?
DV: It’s about 30 people who are out on the trail. But the thing is now most of their work is all done. And so it's my job, and Pat Sharp’s job, our food editor, to go out and really determine who we think the top 10 are. We have to visit those places and do a bunch of spot checks on places.
Snow's BBQ in Lexington, Texas was ranked as No. 1 on the last edition of Texas Monthly's top 50 BBQ joints list.
TSS: How many barbecue joints have you and your team visited to work on the list? Do you need to visit all the ones that make the final list?
DV: We're around the 430 mark for the number of barbecue joints that we've gone to. It started with a map that I provided to the team, based on all my scouting. It includes all the places that I've been to but also a large number of places that I hadn't been able to make it to yet. With all those places that came in with a high score and I had no experience with, I have to go visit them. None of the places will make it onto the top 50 list without me eating there beforehand, so I need to be personally responsible for this too. No matter how big our team is or how often we remind people how this came together, I'm going to be the person who's blamed for being the idiot that put this place on or left this other place off.
TSS: Do you feel a lot of responsibility with being the final say on a lot of these picks?
DV: I don't want to inflate the level of responsibility. It's certainly nothing like what the sort of stress that any barbecue joint owner has to go through every day to make sure that they're running a good business, be profitable, and keep their employees fed, and all that good stuff. But yeah, I do feel this list has got to live for four years and we better get it right or as right as we think we can. We don't take the choices lightly.
Franklin Barbecue in Austin was rated at No. 2 on the last top 50 list. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)
TSS: How do you think this list compares to other top BBQ lists out there?
DV: What makes this list special is that we do the groundwork. The amount of money that Texas Monthly spends on this issue, in mileage, travel and the amount of food that is consumed is pretty astounding. So it's different from so many other lists that are put out because we do that groundwork and we don't just rely on that past list that we did. We judge you based on what you are producing now, not what you produced four years ago.
TSS: What are the hardest parts of putting this together?
DV: The hard part isn’t really going out to see if this place is better than that place. When you start to eat barbecue in bunches, it's pretty easy to tell from one tray to the next on which one's better. But there are a couple of things I think that are more challenging. One of those is trying as much of the menu as possible because so many of these menus have gotten specialized and expanded. There are more specialty items, so it's harder to try all of it. And it's hard to compare this specialty sandwich versus that specialty taco. How do you compare them? What gets harder is putting together a list of 50 places, and starting to realize that many of your favorite restaurants just aren’t going to make it. There’s too much competition.
Truth Barbecue was rated at No. 10 on the last top 50 list. (Photo by Ryan Cooper)
TSS: On a slightly different topic, we wanted to also ask about this year’s Texas Monthly BBQ Festival. This year will comprise three smaller events held in three towns. What was the thinking behind that?
DV: We thought it was probably not the best idea to put together an event for 3,000 to 4,000 attendees like our normal BBQ festival. This year, we thought it was best presented as a good opportunity to go to some communities and cities around Texas where we don't normally have a whole lot of events. We tend to focus our events around Austin. So we found this to be a good opportunity to go out and really highlight three different regions. By focusing regionally, we also weren't asking so much of the pitmasters and barbecue joints that were involved. We’re asking them to travel down the street and do an event for a smaller crowd.
TSS: How has the response been to this new approach for the festival?
DV: The response locally has actually been really great. The Brownsville paper and local news station, for example, have covered each of the places that are going to be involved in the festival. In Brownsville, it's a big deal that we're bringing them together for a Texas Monthly barbecue event there. So, It's been nice to see that those communities feel like it's an important thing that we're doing this.
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Thank you to Vaughn for the great conversation. We’ll be waiting with anticipation for the mid-October release of the new Top 50 list.
Sean Ludwig (NYC BBQ) and Ryan Cooper (BBQ Tourist)
Co-Founders, The Smoke Sheet
Thank you to our sponsor DennyMike's, which offers outstanding seasonings and rubs for every situation. Learn more about DennyMike's here
—The Barbecue Festival in Lexington, NC was canceled for the second year in a row due to COVID-19, labor, and supply chain concerns.—
HOT OFF THE PRESS
For the second year in a row, the popular Barbecue Festival in Lexington, North Carolina has been canceled because of concerns including COVID-19, labor shortages, and supply chain disruptions. The event regularly drew 100,000 attendees, making it one of the largest annual food events in the country. “After months of consultation with local officials, sponsors, and official festival restaurants, the 2021 Barbecue Festival set for Oct. 23 will be postponed,” Stephanie Saintsing Naset, director of the Barbecue Festival, told The Dispatch. “It was a difficult decision, but one we ultimately concluded was the responsible and necessary decision to make.” READ MORE.
Memphis-based barbecue queen Melissa Cookston, renowned competitor and restaurateur, has launched the World Junior BBQ League, a “nonprofit organization aiming to engage kids ages 14-18 in barbecue competitions.” Teens who in the competitions could win prizes up to $20,000, giving them real incentive to give barbecue a try. The Commercial Appeal also notes “the League's mission is to teach teens life skills including leadership, teamwork, strategic planning, organizational skills, time management, work ethic, emotional focus in a competitive environment and culinary skills.” READ MORE.
As outlined in our main story above, the highly anticipated Texas Monthly Top 50 BBQ joints list is coming soon. The list is so influential that Chris Wolfgang of the Dallas Observer released some predictions about the Dallas-area joints he believes will likely make the cut. Joints mentioned that could be on the Top 50 this year include Smokey Joe’s, Cattleack Barbecue, and Hurtado Barbecue. READ MORE.
The team behind Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ, one of the best barbecue joints in Texas, has just opened a new food truck focused on burgers. Cash Cow Burgers started serving its smoked patties at the Memorial Mini Golf & World War II Museum in Buda, Texas this past weekend. The opening of the new food truck sadly means that Valentina’s will take its burgers off the menu. READ MORE.
Daniel Vaughn has been busy with the upcoming Texas Monthly Top 50 BBQ list but he’s still putting in the effort of reviewing BBQ joints. His latest review is of Eaker Barbecue in Fredericksburg. Owners Boo and Lance Eaker mix Korean cuisine and Texas barbecue, leading to some very promising results. READ MORE.
ADDITIONAL READS
J.C. Reid of the Houston Chronicle writes that online videos are making future barbecue stars, such as Evan Leroy of Leroy & Lewis Barbecue.
Acclaimed pitmaster Rodney Scott spoke with Ontario’s National Post about his new cookbook and his life.
Denver-based barbecue joint Smōk plans to open a new location in Fort Collins, Colorado’s Foothills mall later this month.
Chuck Blount writes in the San Antonio Express News that Lockhart is “still the capital of Texas barbecue,” despite lots of recent changes in barbecue.
John T. Edge of the Southern Foodways Alliance wrote about how innovation has turned into tradition at Southern barbecue joints.
Kevin Kelly of Kevin’s BBQ Joints spoke with Bill Dumas, the “Sausage Sensei,” about the crazy and delicious sausages he’s invented.
Truth BBQ pitmaster Leonard Botello shared his brisket secrets for at-home barbecue with Click2Houston.
New York State’s I Love BBQ and Music Festival returned this past weekend after being canceled last year.
—Mad Scientist BBQ cooks three different briskets to see how “salt and pepper only” compares to other styles.—
WATCH
Salt & Pepper Only: Play Action Fake of the Barbecue World? — Mad Scientist BBQ
Pitmaster, science teacher, and YouTube sensation Jeremy Yoder of Mad Scientist BBQ uses one of his latest videos to talk through the idea that Texas brisket “only uses salt and pepper.” He suggests there is a lot of evidence that it’s a false narrative, and then puts the idea to the test with three different brisket cooks. The results may surprise you. WATCH HERE.
LISTEN
Chase Colston Interview — Kevin’s BBQ Joints
In this episode, host Kevin Kelly chats with Chase Colston from the Troubadour Festival, which will have its inaugural event on Saturday, November 6th in Celina, Texas. Colston founded the popular Red Dirt Music and BBQ Festival but parted ways with the event earlier this year. The Troubadour Festival will feature an incredible lineup of BBQ pitmasters and musicians and Colston shares all the details. LISTEN HERE.
READ
Be the BBQ Pitmaster: A Regional Smoker Cookbook Celebrating America's Best Barbecue — William Budiaman
Barbecue is a pillar of American cookery, steeped in rich tradition and regional variety. And when it comes to celebrating America’s best barbecue, not just any ol’ cookbook will do. Be the BBQ Pitmaster is your start-to-finish roadmap through it all so you can smoke your way from Kansas City’s Brisket to the Smoked Pork Shoulder of the Carolinas. Prep time, cook time, serving size…a true barbecue pitmaster leaves nothing to chance. Each recipe in Be the BBQ Pitmaster cookbook provides a complete breakdown of everything you need to know for staying cool while you bring the heat. ORDER HERE.
—You have to check out this delicious beef rib recipe from Meat Church.—
Monster Beef Ribs
By Meat Church BBQ
For this week’s Recipe of the Week, we chose these Texas-style beef ribs from Meat Church. Pitmaster Matt Pittman shares the story of how the beef ribs at Black’s Bar-B-Que in Lockhart made him fall in love with Texas barbecue after growing up on pork barbecue in the South. He shows you how he prepares monster Texas-style 3-bone beef short ribs (also known as plate ribs).
—Lots of must-attend barbecue events are scheduled for 2021.—
September 11, 2021: Pig Island NYC — New York, New York
For those that love all things pork and barbecue, the annual Pig Island NYC event is a can’t-miss affair. This year, the event will emphasize its special relationship promoting the Friends of Firefighters charity. Many chefs and pitmasters from around the country show up and serve their best pork creations. Held outdoors, this all-inclusive event will also feature a ton of great food, beer, cider, and liquor. MORE INFO HERE.
September 16-19, 2021: American Royal World Series of Barbecue — Kansas City, Kansas
The American Royal World Series of barbecue is the largest BBQ competition in the country. On top of a massive KCBS competition with roughly 500 teams from around the country, this signature Kansas City event includes public-facing activities, including live music, delicious BBQ and local food, a full lineup of kids activities, and a vendor fair authentic to Kansas City and BBQ enthusiasts. Read our to learn more about the experience. MORE INFO HERE.
September 17-19, 2021: Denver BBQ Festival — Denver, Colorado
BBQ in back in the Mile High City for the Denver BBQ Festival. The 3rd annual Denver BBQ Festival is happening at Empower Field at Mile High. Don’t miss this chance to grab an ice-cold brew and sample pure smoked bliss from award-winning pitmasters from across the country. MORE INFO HERE.
September 18-19, 2021: Born & Raised Music Festival — Pryor, Oklahoma
On top of many top musical acts like ZZ Top and Cody Jinks, the big new event will feature “The BBQ Ranch” curated by pitmaster Wayne Mueller. Joining Mueller will be Brotherton's Black Iron Barbecue, Night Goat Barbecue, Phatt Tabb's BBQ, Roegels Barbecue Co., and more. MORE INFO HERE.
October 1-3, 2021: Q In The Lou — St. Louis, Missouri
Get ready to go hog wild and get your BBQ fix at another great year of Q in the Lou. Many of the country’s biggest names in BBQ will be back once again. Given heightened safety protocols, it will likely be a little different from years past but still offering lots of food and fun. Read our to learn more about how the event generally goes. MORE INFO HERE.
October 8-9, 2021: Jack Daniel’s World Championship Invitational — Lynchburg, Tennessee
The Jack Daniel’s Annual World Championship Invitational Barbeque – or simply The Jack as it’s known in the world of competition barbecue – is widely considered the world’s most prestigious barbeque competition where teams from around the globe smoke, season and sear their way to a chance to be named the Grand Champion and a $25,000 prize. Annually featuring more than 100 teams representing all 50 states and countries across the globe, The Jack transforms Lynchburg, home of the Jack Daniel Distillery, into the barbecue capital of the world. It’s also important to note that KCBS has changed the date The Jack is usually held in hopes of getting more favorable weather, so check your calendars. Read our to learn more about the experience. MORE INFO HERE.
November 6, 2021: Troubadour Festival — Celina, Texas
The first-ever Troubadour Festival will feature an all-star lineup of musical acts and BBQ joints from all over Texas. More than 40 of the best BBQ joints in Texas (many on the Texas Monthly Top 50 list) will be there slinging smoked meats, so don't miss out. MORE INFO HERE.
November 13, 2021: Holy Smokes: Lowcountry BBQ Festival — Charleston, South Carolina
The Holy Smokes BBQ Festival from Home Team BBQ, Swig & Swine, and Robert Moss will be held November 13 in Charleston. The big new event will include pitmasters from around the country including Chris Lilly of Big Bob Gibson BBQ, Patrick Feges and Erin Smith, Feges BBQ, Billy Durney of Hometown BBQ, Matt Horn of Horn Barbecue, and Rodney Scott of Rodney Scott’s BBQ. MORE INFO HERE.
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