Pitmaster Chris Sussman on the ‘Fundamentals of Smoking’
Louisville-based pitmaster Chris Sussman, also known as The BBQ Buddha, wants to help backyard cooks learn how to use their senses to make amazing barbecue. Rather than focusing on time and temperature as cooking guides, he believes you must use the environment around you to get the results you want.
In his new book The Four Fundamentals of Smoking, which was released this past April, he shares what he has discovered to be the most important principles that impact whether your barbecue comes out flavorful or not. We spoke with Sussman recently about the new book, his BBQ history, and much more. This conversation has been lightly edited for clarity.
The Smoke Sheet (TSS): What’s your barbecue origin story? Where did your love of barbecue and cooking come from?
Chris Sussman (CS): Two big things. First, when I was a kid, my dad and I would always stop at Pierce's Pitt Bar-B-Que in Williamsburg, Virginia on road trips, which is still there. I wanted to be like my dad, so I would always get the pulled pork sandwich with a cold Dr. Pepper. That’s where my affinity or my awareness of barbecue starts. Second, my father owned three great steakhouses in the Washington, D.C. area. So I had a teeny bit of an advantage on other kids when it came to finding food as a passion. My dad would put me to work every summer starting at 13, so I worked in the kitchens and on the floor of his restaurants. … Funnily, I was kind of a cranky teenager complaining that I had to work when all my friends were at the beach, but as an adult, it's been a real blessing in my life.
TSS: It sounds like those experiences as a kid clearly helped get you where you are. Where does your journey as ‘The BBQ Buddha’ start?
CS: It was in the mid-2000s, and I went to a buddy of mine’s house to drink a beer and watch hockey or sports or whatever was a respite from the daily grind of work and raising children. … I would have never expected him to be amazing at cooking, but I went over one night, and he had a Weber Kettle out. He cooked this barbecue pork tenderloin indirect and then he finished it all direct. I was like, ‘Where did you learn this magical technique?’ I was only doing basic gas grilling and stuff and had never seen charcoal indirect. And he handed me Stephen Raichlen’s book BBQ USA. I tried making a bunch of recipes out of it, and it just changed everything for me starting the very next weekend. I went out and got a Weber Smokey Mountain and started teaching myself all the different techniques. I did that for a few years until I found Big Green Egg. And that's really when the personal ride for me jumped into high gear.
Chris Sussman, also known as The BBQ Buddha, is a Louisville-based pitmaster, cooking instructor, and author.
TSS: Congrats on the success of the new book. Could you talk about the ‘four fundamentals of smoking’ and how you narrowed it down to those four? And is this something you've basically been working on throughout your entire journey?
CS: When Page Street Publishing reached out to me to work on a book, I pitched several concepts including a Big Green Egg-focused book. But Craig Taber, from ‘Big Green Craig’ fame had just published a book with the same publisher about the Big Green Egg. So I've learned all of these ideas and concepts that work well for me and they’ve resonated with students in the classes that I teach. … I started to think through what I have learned and applying it to principles, which ultimately became fundamentals. I would go and use a whiteboard when I was getting ideas for the book. And I would start writing all these common elements until I kind of came up with these four buckets that seemed to encapsulate what I could write about. (Ed. note: the four fundamentals are “1) building the right fire with the right fuel; 2) controlling humidity to infuse smoke flavor throughout the meat; 3) managing the ideal “BBQ Zone” temperature range on the three most popular brands of smokers and 4) recognizing the visual and touch cues that indicate when the meat is ready to pull from the smoker.”)
TSS: You got the book deal right at the beginning of the pandemic, correct? How did that impact the book?
CS: It was a blessing and a curse scenario. I got the book deal two weeks before the international lockdown was happening. So two weeks later, I'm now stuck in my house for six months. From that aspect, it was really helpful because if life had been normal I would have had a lot of classes and cooking events here locally and around the country with Big Green Egg. It would have been difficult. So from that aspect, it was a blessing because I was really able to spend that time at home and really focus. And so I started in March, I was done with my final manuscript in October, it was off to print by December, and I had a physical copy in my hand in February.
Pitmaster Chris Sussman teaches you how to use your senses to make great barbecue in his book The Four Fundamentals of Smoking.
TSS: What’s one piece of advice you give to people new to barbecuing?
CS: I'm a computer engineer by trade, so I like to know how things work. When I started to cook and learn all these techniques, I kept a journal. I noticed you never have a perfect environment and never really the perfect setup. But one of the most important parts of my journey was keeping a journal and really being cognizant and aware during all the various cooks. You can take notes and follow up on that later. So I always tell new barbecue people to keep a journal and really think about what you’re doing. Don't just follow the recipes as they're written and try to adapt to your environment as you write down what worked.
TSS: If you could only choose one favorite recipe from the book, what would it be?
CS: Most of all of the recipes are really focused on the sauces, and one of my top sauces is the Korean Gochujang sauce. It can go both on ribs or wings. So one recipe I love is my famous Korean wings on a Big Green Egg, and I tossed them with that sauce with some crushed peanuts, lime, and sliced green onion. It is to die for. The ribs are really good too but it really stands out even more on the wings.
TSS: Any word on publishing a second book?
CS: The Four Fundamentals of Smoking has sold pretty well, enough to where the publisher immediately reached out to me and wants to do a second book. I'm pretty confident that we're going to put together a deal where I put out my second book in May of 2023. So hopefully, my wife will keep me in gear, and I'll be able to chip away at it between now and then.
TSS: Last question: How do you typically recommend which smoker someone should be best off buying?
CS: It makes the most sense to write down all the pros and cons on a sheet of paper and then that will usually tell you the answer. In the middle of the 2000s, for example, I had just started looking at all these different grills. And the one that checked all the boxes for me was Big Green Egg. Well, the industry has massively grown since then, and there are lots of different options. So I asked people questions like, “What's your environment like? What's your household like? What is your desire for messing with wood and charcoal like versus pressing a button and just focusing on the food?” And then everybody has a different answer. I think for the individual, you want them to be happy, you want them to enjoy the experience, and most importantly, just want them out cooking.
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Thank you to Chris for taking the time to talk with us. We encourage you to check out his new book to gain a deeper understanding of how to create exceptional barbecue in the backyard, no matter your environment.
Sean Ludwig (NYC BBQ) & Ryan Cooper (BBQ Tourist)
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—Chris Lilly of Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q in Decatur, Alabama talked to The American South about how to win in competition barbecue. (Photo by the Alabama Tourism Department)—
HOT OFF THE PRESS
Todd A. Price of The American South looked into what it takes to win big in the world of competition barbecue. He spoke with some of the most successful competitors on the barbecue circuit, including Mark Lambert, Melissa Cookston, Chris Lilly, and Brooke Lewis. Competitors have to impress judges who will likely take just one bite of their food. Furthermore, winning takes attention to detail, patience, and a substantial financial commitment. “It will clean your pocketbook out. It will make your feet swell and hurt. You’ll have a headache or two. But that’s just all part of the game,” said Brooke Lewis of The Shed BBQ in Ocean Springs, Mississippi. READ HERE.
The Orange County Register recently ran a profile on Daniel and Brenda Castillo of Heritage Barbecue, who opened their brick-and-mortar location in San Juan Capistrano last year during the pandemic. They’ve continued to overcome the challenges thanks to their hard work and dedication to craft barbecue. Their unique menu reflects the diversity of the Heritage Barbecue staff. “We have every background, you name it, in our kitchen,” Brenda says. “They’re so talented and [with] the variety of places that they have worked at, we’re always open for suggestions from them – why not?” READ HERE.
Buffalo Bills receiver Isaiah McKenzie recently opened his new restaurant La Traila Barbeque in his hometown of Miami. He partnered with Austin, Texas-born pitmaster Mel Rodriguez. "We didn't know that we would have long lines. We didn't know that we would sell out. We just wanted to open up and make some food. We're still learning on the fly, but it's been good," McKenzie said. READ HERE.
New Zion Missionary Baptist Church’s barbecue operation has not closed, contrary to rumors of its demise shared on the Netflix series High On The Hog. According to Texas Monthly’s Daniel Vaughn, the famous barbecue restaurant in Huntsville formerly known as Church BBQ has been resurrected as Holy Smoke BBQ by Tameka Edison and her husband. The profits from the restaurant continue to support the church, where the owners have been members since 2006. READ HERE.
A partnership between the Kansas City Star and the Kansas City Public Library revealed why Kansas City is historically more strongly associated with barbecue than any other Midwestern city. The article goes into great detail about KC's BBQ history. In addition, the Kansas City Public Library is hosting an online presentation by author Adrian Miller (read our full interview with Miller here) on July 25. READ HERE.
ADDITIONAL READS
On Tuesday, Pellet smoker maker Traeger filed its S-1 form to go public and announced it had acquired wireless meat thermometer company MEATER.
One of Houston’s longtime Black-owned barbecue restaurants, Burns Original BBQ will open a permanent location inside the Kroger Supermarket in Summerwood.
The iconic Bodacious Bar-B-Que in Longview, Texas is once again open after closing for nearly two months following the departure of pitmaster Bryan Bingham.
Here are 8 fantastic barbecue spots in Dallas you might be snoozing on, according to the Dallas Observer.
Ryne Dennis of the Athens Banner-Herald asked around about how one goes about becoming a pitmaster and the answers were surprising.
The anchors at TODAY recently got into a heated debate over the difference between a barbecue and a cookout and Soul Food Scholar Adrian Miller stepped in to offer his own take.
Vinepair shared advice on how to pair wine with various styles of American barbecue.
Staffers at the Food Network gave recommendations for the best bottles of store-bought barbecue sauce.
Get the Perfect Temp Every Time with the Finaltouch X10 digital meat thermometer. It truly is the best way to ensure your food is prepared perfectly — Cooked to Temp! Get an accurate temperature reading within 1 to 3 seconds! Learn more at www.chefstemp.com
—Steven Raichlen shares three unique and delicious recipes for ribs in this week’s video selection.—
WATCH
Best Ribs Ever — Project Fire
Let Texans brag about brisket and Carolinians praise pulled pork shoulder. For the rest of us, the ultimate symbol of barbecue — and test of a grill master’s mettle — is ribs. But just which rack you relish depends on where you fire up your smoker or grill. In the American Midwest, ribs generally mean baby backs or other pork ribs, while in Korea, the bone of choice is the beef short rib. In the eastern Mediterranean, lamb ribs reign supreme. In this episode of Project Fire, Steven Raichlen gives you three of the best ribs ever. Recipes include spice-rubbed baby back ribs with chipotle bourbon barbecue sauce, Korean grilled beef short ribs, and lamb ribs. WATCH HERE.
LISTEN
Robert Moss of Southern Living and Mark Gillespie of Whiskycast — The BBQ Central Show
Host of The BBQ Central Show Greg Rempe is joined by the ever-popular contributing editor at Southern Living, Robert Moss. The two definitively answer once and for all whether or not a hot dog is a sandwich. Moss also gives his take on the BBQ University class he attended with host Steven Raichlen. Next up, Greg is joined by guest Mark Gillespie, creator of the Whiskycast podcast. They discuss how the introduction of liquor has affected the country and the latest news from the world of whisky. LISTEN HERE.
READ
Barbecue Rules: Lessons and Recipes for Superior Smoking and Grilling — Joe Carroll and Nick Fauchald
Great barbecue and grilled meats are at the heart of summer cooking, and in this book from barbecue expert Joe Carroll, fire-cooked foods are approachable and downright delicious. With more than 30 mouthwatering recipes and six informational essays in this handy book—adapted from Carroll’s Feeding the Fire—he proves that you don’t need fancy equipment or long-held regional traditions to make succulent barbecue and grilled meats at home. Barbecue Rules teaches the hows and whys of live-fire cooking: how to roast a pork loin (and what cut to ask your butcher for), how to create low and slow heat, why quality meat matters, and how to make the best sides to accompany the main event (the key is to keep it simple). With recipes for classics like Beef Brisket and Pulled Pork Shoulder and more adventurous flavors like Sweet Tea–Brined Poussins and Lamb Saddle Chops with Mint-Yogurt Sauce, there are recipes for every palate and outdoor occasion. ORDER HERE.
Thank you to our sponsor DennyMike's, which offers outstanding seasonings and rubs for every situation. Learn more about DennyMike's here.
—Try this recipe for smoked turkey sandwiches with white sauce from BBQ Tourist at your next gathering. (Photo by Wai Chan)—
Smoked Turkey Sandwiches with White Sauce
By BBQ Tourist
Who says turkey is just for Thanksgiving? In this week’s Recipe of the Week, our very own BBQ Tourist smokes turkey breasts and makes sandwiches with extra sharp white cheddar cheese and tops them with a delicious white barbecue sauce. This recipe takes inspiration from the legendary mayonnaise-based Alabama white barbecue sauce made famous by Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q in Decatur, Alabama. The horseradish in this tangy and creamy sauce recipe will awaken your taste buds with a little extra zing.
ts of must-attend barbecue events are scheduled for 2021.—
July 9-11, 2021: Kansas City BBQ Festival — Kansas City, Missouri
Kansas City is about to get a big new barbecue festival with the “KCQ,” a non-competition barbecue event that celebrates barbecue from Kansas City and many other barbecue towns. It will take place in the parking lot of Arrowhead Stadium and feature barbecue from KC-based mainstays Joe’s Kansas City, Jones Bar-B-Q, and Plowboys BBQ. Out-of-towners will also be there, including 2M Smokehouse, Black’s BBQ, Central City BBQ, and Sugarfire Smokehouse. MORE INFO HERE.
July 9-11, 2021: Windy City Smokeout BBQ & Country Music Festival — Chicago, Illinois
Get ready for beer, BBQ, and country tunes, because the Windy City Smokeout BBQ & Country Music Festival is returning to Chicago. The Windy City Smokeout is one of the largest barbecue festivals in the U.S. and typically features the world’s best pitmasters and more than 15 musical acts. Read our to learn about the experience. MORE INFO HERE.
July 16-17, 2021: Golden Days Championship — Fairbanks, Alaska
The northernmost barbecue competition (maybe in the world?) is taking place in Fairbanks, Alaska, which is also the birthplace of the Alaska BBQ Association. This competition follows the KCBS sanctioned rules as the Grand Champion receives an invitation to the Jack Daniel’s World Championship Invitational. It’s also notable in that the sun basically doesn’t go down the entire time the comp is happening. MORE INFO HERE.
July 17, 2021: Harp Barbecue Festival — Kansas City, Missouri
Tyler Harp of Harp Barbecue has done a lot to help lead a new generation of pitmasters in KC since bursting onto the scene in 2019. He’s quickly become one of the top names in Kansas City barbecue. Now, he’s hosting his own festival on Saturday, July 17, at the Uptown Pavilion in Independence, Missouri not far from where he grew up. Tickets go on sale on Wednesday, June 23 at harpbarbecue.com and will sell out fast, so don’t delay purchasing if you live in KC. The event will raise money for the Ronald McDonald House Charities and also feature other up-and-coming names in Kansas City and Texas barbecue. MORE INFO HERE.
July 31 & August 1, 2021: Beer, Bourbon, & BBQ Festival — Brooklyn, New York
NYC’s Beer, Bourbon, & BBQ Festival is back and better than ever! Get ready to enjoy all those pleasures that true Southerners live by – Beer, Bourbon, Barbecue, Boots, Bacon, Biscuits, Bluegrass, and Smoked Beasts. It’s a great day of beer sippin’, bourbon tastin’, music listenin’, cigar smokin’, and barbecue eatin’. One admission buys you a sampling glass so you can enjoy an all-you-care-to-taste sampling of beer and bourbon. MORE INFO HERE.
August 21-22, 2021: Meatstock Music and Barbecue Festival (Sydney edition) — Sydney, Australia
Meatstock returns with a typically stacked line-up of barbecue enthusiasts and bands. The sell-out, two-day event brings big-name American pitmasters Down Under; sees comp teams from across Sydney go head-to-head over the coals to be crowned the city’s best barbequers; and features live music, food trucks and pop-up bars. MORE INFO HERE.
September 3-5, 2021: Pinehurst Barbecue Festival — Pinehurst, North Carolina
Debuting Labor Day Weekend 2021, The Pinehurst Barbecue Festival celebrates “All Things Barbecue” in North Carolina. From Eastern North Carolina vinegar to Western North Carolina tomato, they will have all of your favorites. The Pinehurst Barbeque Festival is a “Celebration of Taste and Tradition” featuring award-winning pitmasters in one of the most picturesque settings in all of North Carolina — the historic Village of Pinehurst. Choose to experience the entire three-day festival, or attend just one signature event. A multi-ticket VIP package, as well as individual tickets for each event are available. MORE INFO HERE.
September 10-11, 2021: Beer, Bourbon, & BBQ Festival (Cary) — Cary, North Carolina
Cary’s Beer, Bourbon, & BBQ Festival is back and better than ever. Get ready to enjoy all those pleasures that true Southerners live by – Beer, Bourbon, Barbecue, Boots, Bacon, Biscuits, Bluegrass, and Smoked Beasts. It’s a great day of beer sippin’, bourbon tastin’, music listenin’, cigar smokin’, and barbecue eatin’. One admission buys you a sampling glass so you can enjoy an all-you-care-to-taste sampling of beer and bourbon. MORE INFO HERE.
September 11, 2021: Pig Island NYC — New York, New York
For those that love all things pork and barbecue, the annual Pig Island NYC event is a can’t-miss affair. Many chefs and pitmasters from around the country show up and serve their best pork creations. Held outdoors, this all-inclusive event will also feature a ton of great food, beer, cider, and liquor. MORE INFO HERE.
September 16-19, 2021: American Royal World Series of Barbecue — Kansas City, Kansas
The American Royal World Series of barbecue is the largest BBQ competition in the country. On top of a massive KCBS competition with roughly 500 teams from around the country, this signature Kansas City event includes public-facing activities, including live music, delicious BBQ and local food, a full line up of kids activities, and a vendor fair authentic to Kansas City and BBQ enthusiasts. Read our to learn more about the experience. MORE INFO HERE.
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